I had vibration derived from the tyres which turned out to be a haldex issue.
See here: http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic19396.html 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

oldgeezer wrote:

...I would be interested to know whether the monitoring of the halidex unit has an effect on the fuelling or timing...

Hi all,

I've read through this thread and I'm pretty sure the annoyances I'm having with my car are the same as others have described...but I'm not sure. Could you lot humour me for a second while I describe my issues and let me know if you think it's the same issue?!

My car is a 62 plate MY12 GS manual.

Firstly, when I start the car from cold and pull away, for a few seconds (and it is literally only 3-4 seconds) the car is jerky as if the engine is missing. After that first few seconds the jerkiness clears and doesn't return. If I start the engine when it's warm there's no problem. This problem is also intermittent and only appears during, say, 60% of cold starts.

Secondly, and this is much more of an issue for me, at low revs the thing is gutless. Pulling away from junctions and roundabouts etc. I now consciously allow the revs to pick up for a couple of seconds before releasing the clutch to ensure I have power to pull away smartly. When manouevering around corners or up hils in 2nd gear there is very little torque until the revs have picked up then it pulls fine. I often find myself slipping the clutch in such situations in order to pick up revs and work around the issue.

Much as I like the car, it is the least pleasant car to drive I've ever owned. My wife refuses to drive it, and I'm quite happy with that because I consider it a safety risk quite frankly.

I've reported the problem to my dealer at service times but, predictably, they say they can find no problem.

Does this sound like the same, common issue others have described? I just want to be sure because I'm planning another dealer visit and want some 'ammunition' to back up my claims.

TIA

It's possible although the symptoms are slightly different in my case. The problem is that nowadays, if there is no fault code generated the technicians have real difficulty in tracing the fault(s).

The symptoms seem in some cases to be EGR related and in others to be Haldex related. in my case the dealer has told be that it is a software issue related to the incorrect operation of the EGR valve which is causing the hesitation in lower gears (Auto box).

I've been told that Land Rover are working on a fix but despite contacting Land Rover directly no-one is giving me any time-scales for a solution although they are acknowledging that there is a fault that is affecting MY11 and MY12 cars.

My vehicle is very unpleasant to drive in city traffic now and the fault seems to be getting worse.

I have written to Land Rover asking specific questions relating to this but as yet have had no response. I have to say that I am disappointed in the response from Land Rover.

If I have any progress I will update the forum.

I wish you luck with solving your issues

Make sure that your dealer downloads the data from your vehicle and sends it to Land Rover if they can't find the fault themselves.

Regards

Andy

Thanks for the info Andy and glad to hear there is 'something' acknowledged as being a problem with 2011 and 2012 cars.

I think I'll drop LR a message directly myself as well.

Cheers,
Mark

Been reading through this, can someone elaborate on the gutless ? I have a my11 and torque only really kicks in about 1800 to 2000 rpm then seems fine to me. Other half drove the other day though and commented ' it takes a bit to wind up '. I always assumed it took a few revs to get turbo kicking in ?

Steve

Last edited by stevep999 on 5th Sep 2014 2:35 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Turbo kicks in around 2000 rpm. Can give you a bit of a shock in a manual if you accidentally select the wrong gear on a hill! Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

stevep999 wrote:

Been reading through this, can someone elaborate on the gutless ? I have a my11 and torque only really kicks in about 1800 to 2000 rpm then seems fine to me. Other half drove the other day though and commented ' it takes a bit to wind up '. I always assumed it took a few revs to get turbo kicking in ?

Steve

"Gutless" in my case is best described by the following two examples.

1. I'm waiting on the access road to my street to pull out onto the main road. I am waiting on a slight uphill rise. When I come to pull out into the traffic I simultaneously release the clutch and depress the throttle pedal in exactly the same way I've done for every car I've ever owned in 30 years of driving. On any one of those other cars I would pull smoothly away without drama. If I do it with the Freelander I crawl out into the stream of traffic with very little power, as if it's on the verge of stalling. Remember the days when you had a manual choke and you hadn't pulled it out quite enough?! That's what it's like. To counteract it, I have to add some revs (to about 2000rpm I would guess) a couple of seconds before I actually attempt to pull away. That needs a conscious effort which I don't think should be needed.

2. To get to my parents house there are some narrow housing estate roads to be negotiated. At one point there's a slow 90 degree bend on a crossroads - the sort that you would manoeuvre around in 2nd gear at low speed. It's particularly noticeable here because, although it's a slow corner, it's not slow enough to require a drop to 1st gear. However, in 2nd gear the revs drop down just below 2000. I had a BMW X3 before the FL2 and this was never a problem, however the Freely struggles to pull away once I'm around that corner and I find myself slipping the clutch in order to build extra revs to proceed as I think it should.

That's about the best way I can describe it I think. Maybe this is normal behaviour, I don't know. If it is then it's pretty poor as it's the most annoying, frustrating thing I've ever driven.

I had to get used to it as well. The combination of the weight, the long 2nd to 6th gear and the total lack of turbo support below 1800rpm is quite unique. I have chosen the Freely because its unique so I have got to live with that.

Try not to drop it below that magic rpm limit, be patient and let it work (it just takes longer without turbo pressure) or go to 1sr gear. MY2013, 2.2 TD4 SE fuji white
man. gearbox, xenon, "small" Meridian, 7" satnav, autom. aircon, RV-cam, heated jets/windscreen/seats/wheel

Quote:

StephenMG saId, 1. I'm waiting on the access road to my street to pull out onto the main road. I am waiting on a slight uphill rise. When I come to pull out into the traffic I simultaneously release the clutch and depress the throttle pedal

How are you holding the car stationery?
My cars have been auto's so a little different but basically I believe this is what may be happening, when you brake the engine power is cut, as you come off the brake pedal there is a lag from this system as well as the lack of rpm to contend with, if you hold the car with the handbrake you can rev the car above its idle speed and set off, you should find this far better at getting away, it will be interesting to see if this works for you

Hi Guys,

Just to add my two cents....im not a profesional mechanic but have. Owned my Freelander (2007 manual td4) for five years and have suffered the following symptoms which might be relevant, maybe not, regardless it can not hurt to check these.

I have for the past week also suffered the instant loss of power while driving ,for a split second.,only. Cleaned the crank sensor with electric component cleaner and symptom has dissapeared. Had it on the computer at the dealer and was confirmed a faulty crank sensor.

With regards to the above posts one should have enough torque to use 2nd gear. The times that mine has also not performed as normal I had either a intake leak or a leak on the oulet.

Check the boost pipe from the throttle body to the intercooler, does this maybe have oil on? This could indicate a leak which in turn could contribute to a loss in power. This specific boost pipe can be holed if not fitted properly with the white clip, causing it to rub on the block whilst accelarating.

It could also be a leak on the outlet manifold. I currently have a leak on the exhaust manifold by the egr which I need to get sorted.

Also have a look on this forum regarding swirl flaps. Mine showed a faulty MAF sensor but in reallity the shaft controling the swirl flaps broke causing these to get stuck in the intake manifold and blocking the airflow.

Upon removing the remaining swirl flaps and refitting the inlet manifold there was a huge increase in power which should have actually been the opposite...

Point im making is that one can get used to poorer performence quickly.

If a freelander is in 100% working order it definately is not as sluggish as mentioned above.

The above experiences is what I have had with mine and these will not show on a computer. My swirl flap problem did show a faulty Maf sensor for example but replacing the sensor will would not have fixed the cause of the problem.

Hope you get your vehicle running tip top soon!

Regards

Dewald

As the temperature is starting to rise 12 degrees and above the dreded misfire as returned does anyone know if L/R have got this software problem sorted out yet 2008 G4 RRSport TDV8
2009 TDCi 90
2010 GS Freelander

I exchanged my manual Freelander because of this exact problem (amongst others). Dealer admitted they couldn't fix it. After I exchanged it for an SD4 HSE I kept in contact about the old car as I had noticed they had got it up for sale.

I asked "had you fixed it then" as "surely you couldn't be selling a car on with known problem". Their response was that LR Technical had sent a fix just for my vehicle and it was now resolved. I asked if the fix (for my car) would be rolled out officially as there were dozens on owners on this forum alone who were suffering. They said they did not know.

So, if you believe the dealer, then there is a fix. If you don't believe the dealer then my old car is out there with the problem still.

Not a lot of help to you I know. Hope you get it sorted. BMW X3 30d M Sport - Current (problem free)
2014 SD4 Auto HSE Lux - Gone (too many problems)
2012 TD4 Manual XS - Gone (too many problems)

If they had not "actually" fixed it I am surprised they did not put it through the local auction instead.

Just a thought. 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Yes, a valid point although the car owed them a lot of money as they gave me back my purchase price towards the SD4. BMW X3 30d M Sport - Current (problem free)
2014 SD4 Auto HSE Lux - Gone (too many problems)
2012 TD4 Manual XS - Gone (too many problems)