Hi all,

I am about to do this job, and there is one thing I am in doubt about:

Do I need to lock the crankshaft, when I lock the camshafts, for changing the camchain?

I have the tools for it as a set, but I am unsure if I need to lock both the cams and the crank.
I thought I'd better ask about this, before commencing.

It would look like I need to remove a crank seal to insert the locking tool if needed.
Land Rover told me the seals are no longer available...

Looking forward to hearing about this, so I can commence the big engine jobs all in once.

Kind regards,
Redfox

To answer your question…….yes

The position of the camshafts with respect to the crankshaft must be maintained.


But the more relevant question is why are you replacing the chain???

The timing chain is not a common failure.

There are 3.2 running their factory chain with over 300,000 miles of use.



Good luck

Paul

After 251000 km I like to do it.
I never wait until a part fails.

But, looking at this video, he doesn't lock the crank?
Or am I missing something?

&t=918s

Kind regards.

So, I've been watching all the videos on the cam chain as I could, and I have not seen anyone install the crank lock tool, plus the passenger side (right side) cam locking tool. The one that is two square bars bolted together and locks the cams on the right side of the engine (seen from inside the car).

Also, it would seem that I have to undo as a minimum the upper engine mount, maybe the next one down.
Would that mean that the engine is not properly supported? Or is it okay with the lowest engine mount (accessible from under the car)? Any danger that I should be aware of?

Any tips on inserting that tool - right side cam lock tool - the square one?
I know how it works, but I cannot see how it sits, when bot engine mounts are in situ.

Also, I need to drain the engine. And take off the right side front wheel and inner arch, to access the crank. So, that means the engine is locked, so I cannot move it to drain. Maybe I can lift it up at that position, that means no pit access.

All suggestions and tips are most welcome.
Kind regards,
Redfox.

So, to answer my own questions:

Yes, the crank need to be locked.

Yes, the cams need to be locked from the opposite end of the cylinder head.

Yes, the two right hand side engine supporte upper and middle, need to be removed to lock the cams.

yes, the engine needs to be supported at the right hand side, right next to the crank seal with a special tool before removing the two engine supports.

I have all tools, but found out I need to get two cam shaft end seals, which are punctured and removed to gain access for the upper cam locking tool (the square bar).

The sequence seems to be this:

1/ park the car on a flat surface, jack it up on stands and remove right front wheel and plastic cover.

2/ clean threads for old dirt and install support tool on to engine, which then rests on the subframe.

3/ remove undertray.

4/ move coolant container and remove upper and middle engine support.

5/ remove crank seal and install crank locking tool.

6/ remove the airbox, battery and battery tray plus intake hose plus remove the brake vacuum pump, to gain access to the outer cam chain cover.

7/ loosen some brackets for the ac compressor to get better access.

8/remove outer cam chain cover agter having removed some hoses and brackets etc.

9/ install cam lock tool at the opposite end, where the engine supports and coolant tank were.

10/ install the double cam wheel tool and also observe cam chain tension.

11/ maybe I need to undo the aux belt and stuff for that. I will change all of that as well, now I am in there.

That should be it.
Kind regards.
Redfox

the two upper engine mounts off.
Engine supported underneath with the tool for that.
Crank cover off, lock too on the crank.
cam end seals off and cam lock tool on.
brake vacuum pump off.
AC compressor off.
lower brackets off.
aux belt off.
aux pulley and support pulley off.
servo pump off.
Gearbox and cam chain cover cleaned.

When undoing all the outer cam chain cover bolts, there is 1, one, that sits at it's lowest point, right behind a metal coolant tube. A video I watched online, said: "just undo the two bolts that holds the coolant pipe and swing it aside".
Well, today I spent 6 hours trying to undo that lower torx bolt. No way I can get to it. The coolant pipe is loose as in moving a few millimeters, because I have taken off the rubber coolant hose at the front end of the metal pipe. The opposite end goes under the coolant pump and swings away. No way I can get to that end.
I have also undone the coolant pump. No problems. Except that one mentioned bolt.

So what to do?



Next question:
I spotted a coolant leak at the end of the other coolant pipe that rund behind the engine, cloose tot he exhaust manifolds, where it rund into the engine block. So I will have to reseal that too.
That is seriously hard to reach. I cannot see anything mentioned in the 3233 pages service manual.
All advices are really appreciated.

Do I have to take the engine out?

Kind regards,
Redfox.

Right, so I got a little bit annoyed and went to the car and thought: so I can wiggle it and pull forward and a tiny biot to the side.
I did exactly that and it came off like nothing.
So the project continues.

Cheers,
Redfox