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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Changing cam chain on Freelander 2 3,2L i6, how?
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Redfox



Member Since: 07 Jan 2024
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 171

Denmark 2007 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Izmir Blue
Changing cam chain on Freelander 2 3,2L i6, how?

Hi all,

I am about to do this job, and there is one thing I am in doubt about:

Do I need to lock the crankshaft, when I lock the camshafts, for changing the camchain?

I have the tools for it as a set, but I am unsure if I need to lock both the cams and the crank.
I thought I'd better ask about this, before commencing.

It would look like I need to remove a crank seal to insert the locking tool if needed.
Land Rover told me the seals are no longer available...

Looking forward to hearing about this, so I can commence the big engine jobs all in once.

Kind regards,
Redfox

Post #450465 11th Jul 2025 6:46 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1309

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

To answer your question…….yes

The position of the camshafts with respect to the crankshaft must be maintained.


But the more relevant question is why are you replacing the chain???

The timing chain is not a common failure.

There are 3.2 running their factory chain with over 300,000 miles of use.



Good luck

Paul

Post #450468 11th Jul 2025 7:31 pm
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Redfox



Member Since: 07 Jan 2024
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 171

Denmark 2007 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Izmir Blue

After 251000 km I like to do it.
I never wait until a part fails.

But, looking at this video, he doesn't lock the crank?
Or am I missing something?

&t=918s

Kind regards.

Post #450497 14th Jul 2025 8:36 am
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Redfox



Member Since: 07 Jan 2024
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 171

Denmark 2007 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Izmir Blue

So, I've been watching all the videos on the cam chain as I could, and I have not seen anyone install the crank lock tool, plus the passenger side (right side) cam locking tool. The one that is two square bars bolted together and locks the cams on the right side of the engine (seen from inside the car).

Also, it would seem that I have to undo as a minimum the upper engine mount, maybe the next one down.
Would that mean that the engine is not properly supported? Or is it okay with the lowest engine mount (accessible from under the car)? Any danger that I should be aware of?

Any tips on inserting that tool - right side cam lock tool - the square one?
I know how it works, but I cannot see how it sits, when bot engine mounts are in situ.

Also, I need to drain the engine. And take off the right side front wheel and inner arch, to access the crank. So, that means the engine is locked, so I cannot move it to drain. Maybe I can lift it up at that position, that means no pit access.

All suggestions and tips are most welcome.
Kind regards,
Redfox.

Post #450685 26th Jul 2025 10:53 am
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