Just a driver wrote:

Every days a school day, I never knew tesco did back loads of steel. 🤣

BossBob wrote:

An empty truck is wasted fuel and wages if the driver is contracted and negative pay for an owner driver, though I don’t suppose there are many of those nowadays.

One thing for sure there is no point worrying about it. It will what it will be and we won’t have any say in it.

This is a reply I posted on a different thread talking about EV Weights.

I thought it may be more appropriate in this thread ----

I have noticed that quite a few of the EVs I have looked at felt 'empty' and less sturdy than my FL2.

I suspect that the Design Engineers have used the strength of the Battery Pack and cut back on the thickness of the body steel, to keep the weight down.

I know that modern Computer Assisted Design means that the overall structure will be as strong, but I worry that as time goes on, wear and tear/repairs will mean that the structure weakens quicker.

Forgive me but I tend to belong to the 'Isambard Kingdom Brunel' school of engineers, that means to build in a substantial amount of reserve strength.

I just hope that we are not cutting to many corners to get the mileage range in EVs that the existing battery technology cannot yet deliver. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

It’s nice when the door clunks with a heavy sound

Yesterday we had the EVSE installed on the wall surrounding our drive.

 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Do you have to buy it or does it come with the car?
Are all the leads different for different cars?

In our case, it came as part of the deal with the car. If I was to buy this exact EVSE, it would be £1000 fitted, but there are cheaper units available for a lot less money.
All new EVs (except Lexus) use the same plug known as a type 2 connector.

Once the EV arrives, I'll switch over to a cheap night rate tariff, which gives 6 hours over night at 7.5 Pence per kWhr. This will put enough charge in the battery for over 150 miles, at cost of £3.33. But also everything else in the house will also be on the night rate tariff, so the immersion heater can do the hot water (saving about £300 PA on heating oil), plus we'll put on the dish washer, washing machine and anything else that uses lots of electricity to maximise the savings.
We will pay 6 Pence per kWhr more for our electricity outside of cheap rate, but as we have solar, we export more than we use, so it balances out, especially as the new tariff allows us to export to the grid at peak times at 15 Pence per kWhr.
The EV will definitely be cheaper to run than the Freelander, and the Freelander needs replacing anyway, so I'll still be getting another vehicle. We went to an EV, as having one allows us to take advantage of very low night electricity prices for the whole house, the savings are much more than just fuel alone. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

It sounds like you have got a very good deal

When a dealer is behind with its quarterly targets, then better deals can be pushed for.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Might want to put some sealant around the cable going through the wall.

No need for sealant as it's an external dividing wall, so it's exposed to the elements both sides. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Wonderdust wrote:

Might want to put some sealant around the cable going through the wall.

I asked about conduit, the answer I got was.
It's a special EVSE supply cable, which contains 3 X 6mm² copper conductors for live, neutral and earth, and 2 additional 0.5mm² copper conductors for the CT clamp at the meter. These are housed in a composite insulation wrap, then 2 additional layers of protective composite. There's really no need for anything else for it to simply go through a wall.

I've no reason not to believe the information given by a time served electrical engineer who installs 2 of these units per day, especially as he handed me an offcut of the cable to check out myself. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Yes it’s probably like armoured cable
All good