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D1GG3R



Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey
Freelander 2 won't crank.

Hello to all.

I've been visiting this site (as guest) for a few years now and taken some great snippets of information, extra earthing etc. Thanks to all the contributors 👍

I've owned my 2007 FL2 for about 5 years now and can honestly say that its one of the best cars Ive owned. I bought it mainly to tow our caravan.
I've never had a problem until now Sad

I got into the car yesterday, put the fob into the port and attempted to start her up.
All of the usual dashboard lights came on but the engine won't crank?

I called the AA. The bloke tested the battery (2yrs old) and went through the start procedure and still no crank?

He's said he can hear the body control module? click clacking away but still no crank.

After checking numerous fuses he got it going by (with the ignition on) bridging a wire from the starter motor small terminal to the positive battery terminal. It started no problems?

Just to add, eveything works as it should and no error messages are displayed.
Once the engine is starred (with the dodgy wire) I can drive the car without problem.

Has anyone else experienced the same issue??

Thanks in advance 👍

Post #395779 19th Aug 2020 12:37 pm
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SYFL2



Member Since: 16 Jun 2012
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2550

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

It sounds like a dirty or corroded bad earth ?

Post #395784 19th Aug 2020 1:20 pm
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D1GG3R



Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey

Thee AA bloke said that there was no power going to the smaller terminal on the starter, when the engine should crank?

He put a test on it and I tried to start it up.

Not sure if this helps?

Post #395785 19th Aug 2020 1:24 pm
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CliveS



Member Since: 04 Jun 2016
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 204

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Zermatt Silver

I'd start by looking at fuse FE15 in the battery junction box, that supplies power to the starter solenoid via the starter relay, R102, also in the BJB, or is could be the relay itself that has failed, bad contacts perhaps.

Post #395802 19th Aug 2020 5:57 pm
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D1GG3R



Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey

I'll check that out.
Thanks you 👍

Post #395809 19th Aug 2020 6:42 pm
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D1GG3R



Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey

SYFL2 wrote:
It sounds like a dirty or corroded bad earth ?


Where do I start? 🤯

Post #395810 19th Aug 2020 6:43 pm
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D1GG3R



Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey

CliveS wrote:
I'd start by looking at fuse FE15 in the battery junction box, that supplies power to the starter solenoid via the starter relay, R102, also in the BJB, or is could be the relay itself that has failed, bad contacts perhaps.


Fuse checked and ok
Relay swapped with another know working relay

Still no crank.

Post #395812 19th Aug 2020 6:57 pm
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SYFL2



Member Since: 16 Jun 2012
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2550

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

D1GG3R wrote:
SYFL2 wrote:
It sounds like a dirty or corroded bad earth ?


Where do I start? 🤯
battery starter motor alternator etc ?

Post #395814 19th Aug 2020 7:23 pm
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D1GG3R



Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey

I suppose it can only be the lead the goes to the smaller of the two connections on the starter motor, grey &, blue I think it is?
This goes into the loom and gets lost???

Where does it go??

Post #395816 19th Aug 2020 7:38 pm
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CliveS



Member Since: 04 Jun 2016
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 204

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Zermatt Silver

Should be Brown/Blue and it goes from the starter solenoid to the normally open contact of R102.

I could be that the wire has been exposed at some point in the loom and chafed/worn through, I just recently had a case of that on mine where the wire going to the fan control module had been rubbing against the gearbox casing and stopper the aircon fan from running, it's in about the same area.

Post #395817 19th Aug 2020 7:45 pm
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D1GG3R



Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey

Thanks for that..
I'll try and have a look tomorrow. Does that fuse/relay board lift out??

Post #395818 19th Aug 2020 7:58 pm
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CliveS



Member Since: 04 Jun 2016
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 204

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Zermatt Silver

.. Does that fuse/relay board lift out?? ..

Not sure to be honest, I would imagine so but it could be a bit of a fart, there are a lot of wires going in there.

To find the fault on mine I had to pick the loom apart after I'd done a continuity check on the wire from end to end.

Post #395820 19th Aug 2020 8:17 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1219

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Digger,

For situations like this do a hard reset.

Hard Reset = Remove the Battery (+) lead and leave it disconnected for 30 minutes to allow the Voltage to drop to zero.

If you have a charger then charge your battery with it disconnected.

After 30 minutes (or longer) reattach the B (+) and try to start normally.

The Freel2 has a lot of modules that need to communicate to each other if one of your modules is latched up then it may prevent the engine from starting. The Hard Reset should reset the modules.

If the Hard Reset doesn't work then we can talk about the next steps.


Also you didn't specify if you have a Manual or Automatic. Let us know.


Good luck

Paul

PS my Brother in Law's Lexus wasn't starting and the hard reset worked

Post #395829 19th Aug 2020 10:59 pm
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D1GG3R



Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey

CliveS wrote:
.. Does that fuse/relay board lift out?? ..

Not sure to be honest, I would imagine so but it could be a bit of a fart, there are a lot of wires going in there.

To find the fault on mine I had to pick the loom apart after I'd done a continuity check on the wire from end to end.


I'll have a look today... 👍

Post #395834 20th Aug 2020 5:38 am
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D1GG3R



Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: North West
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey

p_gill wrote:
Digger,

For situations like this do a hard reset.

Hard Reset = Remove the Battery (+) lead and leave it disconnected for 30 minutes to allow the Voltage to drop to zero.

If you have a charger then charge your battery with it disconnected.

After 30 minutes (or longer) reattach the B (+) and try to start normally.

The Freel2 has a lot of modules that need to communicate to each other if one of your modules is latched up then it may prevent the engine from starting. The Hard Reset should reset the modules.

If the Hard Reset doesn't work then we can talk about the next steps.


Also you didn't specify if you have a Manual or Automatic. Let us know.


Good luck

Paul

PS my Brother in Law's Lexus wasn't starting and the hard reset worked


Hi Paul
I did this yesterday. However I disconnected both battery terminals and charged that battery to full. I reconnected the positive and then the nagative terminals.
I tried to restart the car but still no joy.
There was lots of clicking and clacking coming from the passenger foot well when I pushed the start button? More than normal??

And its a manual.

Cheers 👍

Post #395835 20th Aug 2020 5:44 am
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