Hi Ian
I've been trying to reply but my phone signal is terrible where I am at the minute.

I don't know what order the codes were in? I left the car with him.

He said he'd cleared the codes and norrowed it down to the immobiliser.

Just to add, I did remove what I thought was the BCM before I took it for the diagnostic.
I was looking for model numbers etc, after reading a few posts on here.

I've tried to upload a pic but like I said, my signal is terrible.

It was the white fuse box in the passenger foot well behind the glove box. Could that be the cause of most of the fault codes and his comment about the lost communication??

6GT9 - 14a073 - LA

Cheers

I seem to have another problem now.

The car won't accept the spare key fob? It just spits it back out each time I put it in?? 🤔

From the manual - cover both Key Fob ejection, and Non Cranking

Both recognition of Key Fob / Inhibitor problems. (note reference to CAN network)


Ignition Fails to Operate

Check that the key is correctly inserted into the start control unit (SCU) and that it is the correct key for the vehicle (Key
will be ejected from the SCU if it is not programmed or from another vehicle). If the vehicle is an automatic, ensure that
the Park position is selected and if manual, ensure it is in the Neutral position.

Check that the start button circuit to the Central Junction Box (CJB) is not open circuit or short to ground.

Check that the CAN network is not malfunctioning, i.e. open circuit or short circuit. This would mean that the CJB, ECM and
Instrument Cluster would be unable to communicate. Check these modules for related DTCs and refer to relevant DTC
Index.


Engine Fails to Crank

The immobilizer status indication LED is displayed in the bottom left of the instrument pack. When the key is inserted into
the SCU, the LED will be turned on for 3 seconds and then turned off. The LED will flash slowly (once every 2 seconds) if
the vehicle is immobilised (transponder not approved). Additionally the diagnostic system should be used to check for
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) from the CJB, instrument cluster, ECM and the ABS module.

One potential occurrence for the vehicle failing to crank on an Automatic Transmission could be due to the Locked in park
switch.

Check the Crank request circuit from the CJB to ECM for short circuit or open circuit.

Check the Starter Relay Circuit.

Check that the Steering Column Lock (SCL) is operating correctly. Inserting the key should drive the SCL to un-lock and
steering wheel should move freely.

Check the CAN network is not malfunctioning, i.e. the CAN circuit is open or short circuit. This would mean that the CJB,
instrument cluster, ECM or ABS module would not be able to communicate resulting in no challenge being made from the
modules for the Immobilisation data.

Also on an Automatic, check the CAN network between the CJB and the Transmission Control Module (TCM). The CJB uses
the "LockedInP" signal transmitted by the TCM to determine if the transmission is in Park before allowing crank, the CJB
uses a value of 0x01, if the CJB sees a value less than this it will not allow crank, and key will not be ejected from SCU.

For a manual gearbox the clutch pedal has to be de-pressed, hence check the CAN network between the CJB and the ECM
to ensure the clutch is depressed, ClutchPedalSwitch75pct = TRUE and ClutchPedalPressed2 = True. The Vehicle will not
crank until these signals are set.

On an Automatic vehicle, check the CAN network between the ABS module and the CJB. The CJB uses a signal
"BrakePedalActive" to determine if the brake pedal has been depressed in order to allow the engine to crank. The CJB uses
a value = TRUE if the CJB does not receive this signal, it will not allow the crank request output.
 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

(Key
will be ejected from the SCU if it is not programmed or from another vehicle)

So my spare has lost its programming?

I swap the fobs around about every 6 weeks to keep the batteries from dieing. I can't see how the second fob has lost its program 🤔

Has anyone else any ideas on how this fault can be progressed.

I am sure that there must be error codes being produced somewhere.

If it is a communications or (signal/unit) earthing problem, apart from area around and under passenger floor carpet (where wiring gets trod on) or unit plugs and sockets disturbed during other work, I cannot see a way forward.

Given the age of the car corrosion of a connection must be a strong possibility, this would need a physical inspection of wiring, earthing points, and pins of plugs/sockets. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Sorry I've no real answer to this issue,
But could it not be down to something simpler like a loose connection,
members have in the past had problems with connectors in front footwell for
example, just thinking out load.
Good luck with this
Dave DAVE.
I.A.M. F1rst Driver.
Gone 2003 Discovery TD5 Auto,
Gone 1986 Defender 90 Station Wagon
Gone 1984 Range Rover 3.5 Vogue Manual.
Gone 1970 Series 11A/3 SWB 3.5 V8 Hybrid
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Van
Gone 1966 Series 11A SWB Van
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Station Wagon,

Thanks Dave
The reason that I am thinking that it is a comms problem, is that the car has been looked at by a couple of mechanics and they will have ruled out anything obvious, and checked out the smaller cable that takes the signal to the starter solenoid.

The car is in need of proper diagnostic equipment to trace back why the starter solenoid is not being operated via the cars normal system.

Although multiple loss of communication has been reported, I see no evidence that any basic check have been carried out on the CAN Bus connections or termination resistance. We have had at least one occurrence on this forum of a corroded signal earth in the passenger footwell. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

I can't thank you all enough for all the replies. I've learnt quite a bit 👍

I did remove the fuse box from the foot well looking for part numbers etc. So most of the plugs have had a wiggle.

The bloke that did the diagnostic test used what looked like a tablet that connected via wireless to plug in the obd2 port.

He said it was quite an advanced bit of kit and, amongst lots of other things, it could tell the resistance in parts of the loom and identify break? He claimed that it could tell him everything he needed to know, even down to the voltage in the key fob battery??

Not sure of any of that were true??? I did look over his shoulder and it looked quite impressive. It looked like it had Google links next to the fault codes?? I could be wrong though 🤔😂

He said that the fault codes were cleared and hadn't come back?
He narrowed things down to one of the two immobilisers??? 🤔

He also mentioned that the steering lock wasn't engaging.

Has anyone ever tried one of these...

https://www.mk3.com/land-rover-freelander2...k-emulator

Found a youtube video.

What on earth has he had coming out of his air vents!

I had a similar problem with my Jeep Grand Cherokee - was a key turn to start and sometimes on turning the key got nothing..
it would start if I put the key to run and jumped power to the control side of the starter - so problem was somewhere on the control side not switching - the most likely candidate was to do with the actual key lock setup.

I fitted a fused relay controlled feed to energise the control side of the starter controlled by a momentary switch I fitted to the steering cowl - effectively bypassing the "crank" position on the key and turning it into a button start system - problem solved for me

In your OP you said "After checking numerous fuses he got it going by (with the ignition on) bridging a wire from the starter motor small terminal to the positive battery terminal. It started no problems?"

I wonder if you could do something similar here as it is the exact same symptoms - the starter control side is not receiving its signal to switch the high voltage side and thus spin the starter. 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

I've done a rough 'fix' to get me going....

I've run a cable from the engine compartment through into the the driver compartment.

It's a two core cable that connects to the battery positive, through to a momentum push switch back to the starter coil.

With the ignition on, this will start the car.

Im just a little more concerned now that the second fob doesn't stay in its port?

So after much deliberation, I ordered the steering lock emulator.
I thought it worth a try at about £20 delivered.

I've just plugged it in, as per previous posted video, and boom... Off she went. Fired up first push of the button 👍

Now, I see this as no permanent fix. I would much rather have a new steering lock.

If I were to buy a new or used steering lock, will it need coding to the car??

Well sorted
Hopefully another few years of fault free motoring FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Thanks for all the help & advice...

I hope this thread can help others in the future..

And yes, I would still buy another freelander.... Without doubt 👍