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Home > Technical > HDC problems - Starting issues - Extra Earth Lead Fix
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andycwb



Member Since: 08 Oct 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 108

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Ipanema Sand

Get the fattest cable you can find. For the few seconds the starter motor is running the current will be well over the cable rating. 240A seems to be about what's fitted. 2011 MY SD4 HSE + planning some interesting stuff
Previously: 2004 Discovery Td5 ES Premium + lots of stuff
Previously: P38A Range Rover 4.0 SE
Hampshire and Berkshire 4x4 Response Founder and Treasurer

Post #206359 8th Nov 2013 7:12 pm
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ccsnet



Member Since: 05 Jan 2013
Location: Lancs
Posts: 881

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Tambora Flame

Paul.W wrote:
Just ordered one of these at 31" with 10mm hole ring terminal on one end and 6mm hole ring terminal on the other end. I did try to get one from LR but unfortunately no joy.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221309910122?ssP...1438.l2649
A great find....

T Terran



'The' Car For The Modern Day UK Roads ( ie all the pot holes )

'A Freelander that leaks oil is just marking its territory' - Wise words

Now a member of the FL2 'Silly Bill' Club

Post #206367 8th Nov 2013 7:35 pm
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taztastic



Member Since: 03 Feb 2011
Location: North West
Posts: 8652

England 

Threads merged Thumbs Up

Post #206372 8th Nov 2013 7:48 pm
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andycwb



Member Since: 08 Oct 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 108

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Ipanema Sand

Just checked mine. MY11 and a single earth to the body near the battery.

Think a big fat bit of wire is needed. 2011 MY SD4 HSE + planning some interesting stuff
Previously: 2004 Discovery Td5 ES Premium + lots of stuff
Previously: P38A Range Rover 4.0 SE
Hampshire and Berkshire 4x4 Response Founder and Treasurer

Post #206376 8th Nov 2013 8:09 pm
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

andycwb wrote:
Get the fattest cable you can find. For the few seconds the starter motor is running the current will be well over the cable rating. 240A seems to be about what's fitted.

Don't forget that 150A fuse that's mounted on the starter cable, near the battery's positive terminal... Wink

 

Post #206379 8th Nov 2013 8:25 pm
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Stevie5tapes



Member Since: 10 Jun 2012
Location: Brighouse, YORKSHIRE
Posts: 1370

England 2013 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Auto Sumatra Black

How easy is it to remove the air filter box to get to the starter motor? Not really had time to search on hear yet Embarassed Is it an easy job? Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Post #206386 8th Nov 2013 9:07 pm
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Dave DND



Member Since: 12 Oct 2013
Location: Paignton
Posts: 47

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Baltic Blue

taztastic wrote:
Threads merged Thumbs Up


For the attention of the Moderators: Re merged threads.

Like many others who have come to this forum, the reason was that I had a few issues with my Freelander and I have been searching endlessly through posts trying to find a resolve.

I eventually touched across the thread I have been merged with, but had initially dismissed it as the title did nothing for me as like other thread using the search facility. I was using the keywords of my fault syptoms, such as HDC FAULT and SLOW STARTING to locate something usefull. Had I known what the fault fix was, then would I actually be "searching" for an EARTH THREAD fault? Probably not.

I was indeed inspired by the thread I have been merged with to look into adding a supplementary cable, but again, unsure whether it related to my faults as the original post seemed a little vague to me in places and lacked some definition with regards to the sypmtoms being experienced.

With no disrespect intended to the original post or author, I decided to give something back to the forum, and to write something in my own words, using some thread title terminology and keywords that would show up a little better in the search and browse manipulation on here, that may aid others frantically pulling their hair out with slow starting and HDC faults - and I thought I would add an alternative and a little more in depth description of both some of the symptoms, reasoning and resolve of this.

My opening line did indeed state "I`m fairly sure that this will have been covered already, but its such a good fix that its worth mentioning again" and now it has been relegated to the depths of an unhelpfully worded thread title that may not actually assist others, who are still searching BY SYMPTOMS for a fix and not searching by RESOLVE.

Could I respectfully ask that this thread is now unmerged, and split back into its original context in which it was intended so that others may find it quickly and avoid any unwanted and costly main dealership intervention.


Last edited by Dave DND on 9th Nov 2013 11:21 am. Edited 2 times in total

Post #206416 9th Nov 2013 9:57 am
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taztastic



Member Since: 03 Feb 2011
Location: North West
Posts: 8652

England 

Thank you Dave DND for your valued input, I will leave the threads merged as they all appear to relate to the same issues, it is of much greater benefit to other members if the information is in one place.

To help with this I have amended the title of the three threads and also made it a sticky in the technical section.

Your continued input to the forum will be much appreciated and we look forward to more of your excellent write ups Thumbs Up

Post #206424 9th Nov 2013 10:48 am
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Dave DND



Member Since: 12 Oct 2013
Location: Paignton
Posts: 47

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Baltic Blue

Stevie5tapes wrote:
How easy is it to remove the air filter box to get to the starter motor? Not really had time to search on hear yet Embarassed Is it an easy job?


You can get away without removing it, but its actually quicker to do than typing this reply.

Unplug the electrical connector on the top and move cable away from air box (may be a retainer that needs releasing), unclip the big clamp on the convoluted pipe with a pair of pliers and slide to one side if you can, grab air box and lift upwards.

Its only held in place by a few poppers, and when refitting, there is a small pipe on a slide bracket near the front that needs to be lined up again.

If this takes you more than two minutes, you are really doing something wrong

Post #206427 9th Nov 2013 11:09 am
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Stevie5tapes



Member Since: 10 Jun 2012
Location: Brighouse, YORKSHIRE
Posts: 1370

England 2013 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Auto Sumatra Black

Cheers Dave, before I read your post I had a quick look this morning, I thought maybe (I haven't done this before so only a thought!) that just removing the engine cover might give sufficient room to get to the starter motor? One last question, as again I've not done this before but why does the earth strap need to be so long? When I looked in the engine compartment this morning it looked to me that a shorter strap would do? Does the route of the earth strap add extra length to the strap? Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Post #206433 9th Nov 2013 12:03 pm
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oldgeezer



Member Since: 09 Apr 2011
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 1302

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Baltic Blue

When I fitted mine I only removed the battery cover and it took about 10 mins, routed under the battery tray and down to starter bolt. Yawn Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

Post #206462 9th Nov 2013 5:18 pm
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

The ones with autoboxes have a much more accessible point for clamping the extra earth lead.
On the autobox case, in place of a technological hole with corresponding thread. It's an M10x1.5, I believe...
In the end, engine, starter, autobox ground is the same.
See below.

Post #206465 9th Nov 2013 5:47 pm
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Dave DND



Member Since: 12 Oct 2013
Location: Paignton
Posts: 47

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Baltic Blue

You can of course connect it to the gearbox as shown, but . . .

A) you have to find a suitable bolt

B) The starter motor (that needs the extra power) has a bolt that is two inches to the left that does not go through any extra joints or potential voltage losses due to gaskets etc - so don`t really see what you are achieving by doing it this way

And yes, to answer a previous question, cable length alllows it to be routed neatly and look tidy - routing it down the joint in the battery tray is perfectly acceptable, I only drilled a hole as I wanted it to be hidden and look a little less heath robinson.


Last edited by Dave DND on 9th Nov 2013 6:21 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #206467 9th Nov 2013 5:56 pm
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

Quote:
or potential voltage losses due to gaskets etc

The box is fixed to the engine through some serious bolts. Through there the current flows...
And more of that, I don't believe there is a gasket between engine and box...
And by the way, did you saw where the original chassis to engine earth strap is connected?...

 

Post #206469 9th Nov 2013 6:03 pm
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Dave DND



Member Since: 12 Oct 2013
Location: Paignton
Posts: 47

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Baltic Blue

I hear what you are saying, but if you work on the very basic theory that every joint is a potential for some voltage loss, albeit minimal, and you have a bolt within reach that is actually connected to the item you are trying to earth out, why not simply use the starter bolt ?





Every little helps


Last edited by Dave DND on 9th Nov 2013 6:22 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #206472 9th Nov 2013 6:12 pm
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