pv3001 wrote:

Several weeks later and my car is still running like a dream. The part number for my throttle pedal is:

7G9N-9F836-GB
6PV010 834-26
RHD Man

pv3001 wrote:

I have also thought of a test drive for the fault, in third gear, on flat empty road let revs drop to 1000 (about 15mph). The gently squeeze the throttle to increase revs to exactly 1200 but not exceeding it. My car can do this now, but I don't think I would have been able to accelerate to 1200 revs without going over before. It would be interesting to see if a car which has the fault can do this consistently.

Hi,

These are the images from the inside of the throttle: There does not appear to be any wear etc, but the moving part is not a magnet, it is a copper plate.

Very interesting read about the replacement pedal. Will keep an eye on this one as it seems like a simple fix if a consistent part number is known.

Good work. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

What does the connector look like and how many wires are involved? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Tigger wrote:

My second FL2 was a 2012 HSE manual TD4 2.2d.

It developed an ocassional stutter, happening a few times a week, where it felt like it lost power for a fraction of a second. It was more of an irritation rather than a minor issue. The dealer had it in several times and after the third or fourth time, to my complete amazement, told me that it's a known problem and that Land Rover didn't have a fix for it. I asked them to trade it in so that I could buy a new car and they refused, saying that they already had two or three around the back (with exactly the same issue) and they didn't know what to do with them!

I hope it's not the same thing but, if it is, I'd ask LR if they ever fixed that issue (this was back in 2014) and if they didn't, live with it - there's no fix

When we had the problem with our 2011 model I got LR customer services involved and had the same response from the dealer in Yeovil who said at the time that they had three other customers with this issue. The did a “recalibration of the air flow system” which seemed to help in our case. I can’t believe it will ever be fixed now especially as all FL2s are out of manufacturers warranty. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Interestingly, the dealer that put it back (who shall remain nameless!) said that they put it straight back out on the forecourt! I was told that faults like this were often never noticed by the next owner

Ten out of ten for honesty (hence the anonymity), “minus several million for good thinking” (H2G2 anyone?)

Tigger wrote:

I was told that faults like this were often never noticed by the next owner

dorsetfreelander wrote:

What does the connector look like and how many wires are involved?

There are six electrical connectors as shown



I have google searched and the throttle sensor appears to use a number of inductive proximity sensors, where the metal plate is detected by an electro-magnetic detection field produced by each sensor. A bit like a metal detector, hence there is no contact between the sensors and the metal plate.

In respect of temperature sensitivity, I bought my car last November and never noticed the fault during the winter. it wasn't until the warmer weather came along that the fault showed itself, but it could easily have just developed. Surely temperature sensitivity, if proved could rule out many potential sources for the problem.

My knowledge of physics does not extend beyond the use of google but it would be interesting to know if electro magnetic detection is or can be temperature sensitive.

Would be interesting it is was throttle pedal related. If the pedal works thanks to the connection of various copper plates, it wouldn't surprise me if the physical properties of these metal parts varies depending on temperature. Things conduct differently at different temperatures. Maybe the variation is just enough to confuse the car a little.

I could be a million miles off of course.... Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

JUST TO SAY HAD DREADED MISSING ON A REGULAR BASIS ON MY 2011 GS JUST CHANGED THROTTLE ASSY TODAY NO MORE HESSITATION. BRILL. WILL LET YOU KNOW IF ITS PERMANENT

TOGGI - I've been searching without success for a pedal assembly with exactly the same letters/numbers as on the sticker on the pedal on my car. Does your replacement pedal have the same numbers as the one you have replaced? Do the numbers on the sticker actually matter? Currently enjoying:
2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS (SOLD)
2013 BMW X3 20D M-Sport Auto
2007 Jaguar XK 4.2 Coupe

I wonder if the explanation is simply that LR bought a batch of pedals in 2011 which had a few dodgy ones in there? After all not every 2011 model had the problem apparently. Given the physics of how these things work it's unlikely that they "wear out" or be so temperature sensitive. I would be interested to smash one up and see if there is an encapsulated electronic module inside or whether it's done elsewhere. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

HI THERE ARE AT LEAST 4 PEDAL ASSY NUMBERS THE PEDAL LABEL DOES NOT HAVE A LANDROVER NUMBER ON IT BEWARE BUT IT HAS A MANUFACTURE DATE IF YOU BUY OFF EBAY DONT BUY ONE MADE IN 2011 I DIDNT CHANCE IT BOUGHT NEW AROUND 78 £ DELIVERED GOT MINE FROM MATFORD LANDROVER IT IS A DIRECT REPLACE MENT IDLE SPEED WAS BANG ON AFTER FITTING I HAVE PART NO FOR 20011 MANUAL GS RHD LR031902 BUT QUOTE VIN NO TO THEM ITS EARLY DAYS FOR ME ONLY FITTED FOR TWO DAYS BUT HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING TO GET CAR TO DO IT BUT BEEN BRILL IT DID IT EVERY DAY IN SUMMER BEFORE FINGERS CROSSED

Toggi, please take the caps lock off. Its seen as shouting at someone.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current