@FreelSol1
Problem is that the engine ECU adapts to the new conditions.
What you want is obtainable by mechanically restricting the EGR flow through a 7mm hole, instead of about 25mm how is it now.
This is how I have it in this moment and I have about 0-5% EGR error at idle and about 20-30% EGR error at cruising speed.
EGR error, not the commanded EGR you are talking about.

Another angle to investigate... I didn't try it because I am satisfied by the above solution.
EGR functioning is based a lot on the wide band O2 sensor signal (the lambda probe). And the WBO2 sensor lifespan is about 100K miles.
Those spikes also appeared on my car after about 80K miles. Could be WBO2 sensor related...

I had a slight hesitation problem on warm days on my MY2011 SD4 Auto.

It seemed to match the these Volvo TF80 (AWF21) Transmission Issues (Shift Flare, etc.) and was common across makes using the TF80 6 speed automatic transmission manufactured by Aisin Warner and used in the FL2.

https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10176/volv...ion-issues

My present MY2015 SD4 does not suffer from this problem, but has another (on extremely rare occasions) problem of (engine?) hesitation/flutter at about 30mph when going up a slight hill in cruise control. It is most odd, and regularly only occurs in 2 places and nowhere else.

In my experience nearly all cars have their peculiarities, and that is why sometimes it is easier to adjust (reprogram?) the drivers input to the driver/car interface than reprogram the car. Changing coding can have unintentional consequences.

If anyone had to drive a car fitted with an accelerator fuel pump (to put an extra slug of petrol on acceleration) during the 1960s they will know about adjusting your style of driving to suit the car and conditions.

PS I daren't mention vacuum driven wipers of that era. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

That's a good article. I've considered having the gearbox oil changed - I'll get it done as soon as I can. My own gearbox issue is that when it's hot, it doesn't engage into Drive as quick as normal - there is a pause of about 1 second before it engages Drive.

My throttle hesitation is independent of gearchange - easily proven by driving it in manual mode - the hesitation occurs in each manually selected gear at the same 1800-2000rpm.

I didn't mention this in my previous posts - apologies.

I also didn't mention that if I disconnect the MAF sensor, the hesitation problem disappears (but I get Reduced Performance), so this isn't a solution.

My Foxwell diagnostics are what lead me to thinking it's the EGR being the problem. I can't be 100% sure until I try to alter the EGR mapping to see if the hesitation is reduced. I'm trying to find someone in the UK who'll do this for me.

I'm just trying to eliminate things one by one. So far, I've tried turbo, MAF, fuel filter, oil. None of these made a difference.

I'm considering a software update, but I've had a fuel remap (which didn't make a difference to my problem) and the software update will overwrite my remap.

Delete the EGR from the ECU and fit a blanking plate... Goodbye EGR problems forever

I believe I have cured mine.

2011 SE SD4.

Have been on this forum for over 12 months, issue was driving me bonkers.

I tried the new pedal as suggested, offered a temporary fix for a week or so.

The big fix

25/8/20 I had the following done, since then I've done 3000km and had no issues:

1. New timing belt. My Landrover dealer insisted on keeping the car overnight so that they could test the timing on a cold start. Suggested they can be temperamental and needed fine tuning.

2. PCM Fault - P115A-00 Relating to low fuel level forced limited power. Fault was rectified.

3. Update all required software.

I'm not sure which item fixed the bug, but it's gone.

Good luck team, there is hope for all of you yet

Hi FL002,
I see you are in the Perth area, where did you get that done and at what cost please? Your explanation triggered a thought for me, I managed to virtually run out of diesel on a long incline and when it started to splutter I stopped immediately and walked the short distance to a fuel station for a 5litres then drove and filled it up. It was after that that our SD4 first started to go to sleep momentarily when setting off at a junction/roundabout/traffic lights etc. Like for causing an accident and I keep doing that simple gearbox reset thingy and it goes ok for that journey but is not a permanent fix. I have read all the threads and yours seems very plausible so maybe give it a try. I am in South Lanarkshire so not too far from the Perth area.

Hi Hesitancy,

I'm in Perth.... Australia....

I went to our Landrover dealer, yours should have the same gear to fix the fault.

Cheers

Ha Ha, I never thought of looking to your flag.

FL002 wrote:

I believe I have cured mine.

2011 SE SD4.

Have been on this forum for over 12 months, issue was driving me bonkers.

I tried the new pedal as suggested, offered a temporary fix for a week or so.

The big fix

25/8/20 I had the following done, since then I've done 3000km and had no issues:

1. New timing belt. My Landrover dealer insisted on keeping the car overnight so that they could test the timing on a cold start. Suggested they can be temperamental and needed fine tuning.

2. PCM Fault - P115A-00 Relating to low fuel level forced limited power. Fault was rectified.

3. Update all required software.

I'm not sure which item fixed the bug, but it's gone.

Good luck team, there is hope for all of you yet

I wish you well but I have been on this forum for a few years now and lost count of the number of times people claim to have solved the 2011 hesitation problem. My son has seen it go away with various software resets by dealers but then come back again as the ambient temperature rises in the spring. There again when I took over his car it never happened to me so is it about driving style? My guess is that there are more than one causes and unless you had an FL2 loaded up with data loggers for a few months you be lucky to crack it. LandRover gave up several years ago. Anyway good on you for trying, you might be successful.  3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Thanks. If everyone who had this problem also had a diagnostic tool, then it would be easier to compare notes i.e. does everyone's EGR% spike at 60% at 1800rpm. My Foxwell will work on all the Land Rovers of a particular date-range as well as Jaguars (it worked on my previous 2004 XJR), so they are a good investment. So you can go from a FL2 to a L322 and you don't have to buy a new diag tool.

Yes, I have doubts that my ideas are wrong, or at least it's not the whole story.

I'm trying to fix this problem because I think it's worth the effort. Also, it usually costs money to change to another car that might have its own set of problems. Also, it's an opportunity to learn about your car and when you eventually fix the problem (or not), you can pass on your new-found knowledge/experiences to other owners.

At the moment, I've got more spare time than I usually have, so I'll carry on trying...

alex_pescaru wrote:

@FreelSol1
Problem is that the engine ECU adapts to the new conditions.
What you want is obtainable by mechanically restricting the EGR flow through a 7mm hole, instead of about 25mm how is it now.
This is how I have it in this moment and I have about 0-5% EGR error at idle and about 20-30% EGR error at cruising speed.
EGR error, not the commanded EGR you are talking about.

Another angle to investigate... I didn't try it because I am satisfied by the above solution.
EGR functioning is based a lot on the wide band O2 sensor signal (the lambda probe). And the WBO2 sensor lifespan is about 100K miles.
Those spikes also appeared on my car after about 80K miles. Could be WBO2 sensor related...

alex_pescaru wrote:

@FreelSol1
Problem is that the engine ECU adapts to the new conditions.
What you want is obtainable by mechanically restricting the EGR flow through a 7mm hole, instead of about 25mm how is it now.
This is how I have it in this moment and I have about 0-5% EGR error at idle and about 20-30% EGR error at cruising speed.
EGR error, not the commanded EGR you are talking about.

Another angle to investigate... I didn't try it because I am satisfied by the above solution.
EGR functioning is based a lot on the wide band O2 sensor signal (the lambda probe). And the WBO2 sensor lifespan is about 100K miles.
Those spikes also appeared on my car after about 80K miles. Could be WBO2 sensor related...

I see that this hesitation problem is rearing its head again.
I am convinced that this is an inherent problem that occurred in early SD4s and facelift cars of about that time.
It always seemed to occur as the weather got warmer, and I am pleased to say my later SD4 Metro has not shown any tendency to Flare/Hesitate or misbehave in my 4 years with it.

This Thread seemed to explore most of the possibilities. My views on untested/unauthorised software alterations have not changed.

IanMetro wrote:

I had a slight hesitation problem on warm days on my MY2011 SD4 Auto.

It seemed to match the these Volvo TF80 (AWF21) Transmission Issues (Shift Flare, etc.) and was common across makes using the TF80 6 speed automatic transmission manufactured by Aisin Warner and used in the FL2.

https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10176/volv...ion-issues

My present MY2015 SD4 does not suffer from this problem, but has another (on extremely rare occasions) problem of (engine?) hesitation/flutter at about 30mph when going up a slight hill in cruise control. It is most odd, and regularly only occurs in 2 places and nowhere else.

In my experience nearly all cars have their peculiarities, and that is why sometimes it is easier to adjust (reprogram?) the drivers input to the driver/car interface than reprogram the car. Changing coding can have unintentional consequences.

If anyone had to drive a car fitted with an accelerator fuel pump (to put an extra slug of petrol on acceleration) during the 1960s they will know about adjusting your style of driving to suit the car and conditions.

PS I daren't mention vacuum driven wipers of that era.

I have a MY2013 SD4 auto. XS.
My problem is as follows. When accelerating quite gently from standstill I get a momentary hesitation and then a surge / lurch which causes the rear wheels to chirp and scrabble for just a brief moment. It seems most prominent when car is warmed up and I have noticed it more in warm weather. No sign of any misfire or judder. Particular evident when pulling onto a roundabout from standstill.
Thought it might be Haldex related but would this cause rear wheel spin?
Now reading this thread perhaps it is throttle pedal related ? The pedal has always felt quite remote and sticky on this car compared to my wife's Golf GTI and my Puma Defender. I have always found it difficult to do a low speed reverse manoevre. Pedal seems to resist and the cause a sudden surge in power as you press harder.

Any thoughts?

Would love to resolve this as otherwise it is a fantastic vehicle! Much underrated! FL2 SD4 XS 2013 Orkney Grey