My 2013 FL2 has been superb for the last 22000 miles, I bought her last December and used her every day since. Upgraded the headlights with a Stealth HID kit, serviced her,and new tyres all round. No problems at all.

Last week, the reduced performance warning came on (red and amber) along the engine management light. Car would not rev past 2 to 2.5 thousand rpm and the power bled away as the revs increased.

Local mechanic suggested the top turbo hose could be the likely culprit, he used an icarsoft tool to remove the faults but they returned with in seconds/minutes.

Purchased a three piece hose kit (silicone and plastic) with the intention of doing the easy stuff first. I also bought an Autel AP200 tool to have a play with it.

The AP200 got delivered before the hose kit, so I set up my account, downloaded the LR pack and the Euro app, and away we went. Found loads of faults in several systems but most of them were pretty old and not relevant to the issue of reduced performance.

Cleared all the faults, taken the car out this morning, fairly hard driving up hill and down dale (I live in the middle of Dartmoor) lots of revs, and nothing, no faults have re-appeared on the dash, leaving me happy but slightly confused.

If a hose is split/damaged then deleting a fault code doesn't fix it, the hose is still damaged. So why no warning on the dash? I'm also going to run some turbo/egr cleaner through the tank just in case something was sticking.

Other than that, I'm just going to keep driving her to see what haqppens. Any ideas as to what it could be would be welcome. Cheers

Just doing a blanket clear of the codes is not recommended by LR, as pending codes are a clue to future issues. Removing codes removes potential help later on.

Did you note the codes? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Hi Nodge, no I didn,t think to record the faults. Nothing in the AP200 history either.

I figured that any new faults would only relate to the current issues rather than any historic ones and make it easier to resolve.

Without codes, historic, pending, or current, anything you do will be pure guesswork I'm afraid. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

You'd imagine if there is a fault which returns it'll throw up another code.
In the meantime enjoy the lack of faults. 👍 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I had similar symptoms, with my car going into 'Limp Mode' at odd times, but running normal if I cleared the codes.

(Please record and store any OBD Codes before you clear them, as Nodge says it's hard to help if we have no clues)

I suggest that a dose or two of Wynns Turbo Cleaner in the fuel will do no harm and free the Turbo Vanes. They do seem to clog up on the FL2.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39340.html?highlight=turbo+vane FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Hi Ian

The Wynns is going in today and I have put a note book in the car to write down the codes as they crop up, always assuming that they do.

What was the issue with your car?

I had two bouts of the recurring Limp Mode problem separated by several years.

The first was dealt with under my Extended Warranty, fault codes confirmed by the AA and cured by the LR Dealer. They 'exercised' the turbo (vanes?) on instructions from the LR Warranty people, and the fault cleared.
Interesting the LR Warranty firm would not sanction a new turbo until the above 'exercise' procedure was tried.

The second time I checked and cleared the codes several times before taking the advice of the Forum and trying the Turbo Cleaner. This seemed to work after about my first half tank of the mixture.
(I have taken to carrying a cheap OBD Reader in my car, as I have found that checking and clearing the fault would get me home without having to suffer 'Limp Mode'.

I have now covered well over 1k miles without any problems (touch wood).

My link in the post above has the codes and symptoms.

I must point out that my car is maintained by dealer to LR standards and has had no addition oil changes or (preventive?) intervention. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Further to my opening post, the car has dropped into limp mode again this morning, images of the codes are below.






As you can see, some are historic and nothing to do with the limp mode issue (door locking etc)

Can anyone decipher what they actualy mean and translate into laymans terms for me please.

You will find a fault finding guide (around page 1006) in in the
Repair Manual and Wiring Diagrams

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z13lctkhyk5...e5&e=1

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html

Example below shows sticking Turbo Vanes

P256373

Turbo charger Boost Control Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance

Turbo charger vane actuator stuck closed unable to reach required position

Check Turbo charger vane actuator mechanism is free from obstruction and carbon build-up



If the Fuel Additive does not clear it you can manually exercise the Vane Ring Mechanism.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38969.html?highlight=turbo+vane

If this doesn't work then a new Turbo may be required. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

As above.
Also the interior movement sensor has failed, there is an issue with a heater blend door stepper, and you need to replace a passenger door lock before it stops functioning and locks the door in the closed position, which is a world of pain. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thanks Nodge, I have already ordered the locking module, should have it on Tuesday. Is the interior movement sensor a must have?

IanMetro wrote:

You will find a fault finding guide (around page 1006) in in the
Repair Manual and Wiring Diagrams

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z13lctkhyk5...e5&e=1

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html

Example below shows sticking Turbo Vanes

P256373

Turbo charger Boost Control Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance

Turbo charger vane actuator stuck closed unable to reach required position

Check Turbo charger vane actuator mechanism is free from obstruction and carbon build-up



If the Fuel Additive does not clear it you can manually exercise the Vane Ring Mechanism.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38969.html?highlight=turbo+vane

If this doesn't work then a new Turbo may be required.

Glad to hear it helped.

I did a second helping of Wynns in the next tankful, and have decided to do it at least every 6 months or so as a preventive measure.

My thanks go to a Forum Member (Spannerhead) who suggested it to me on my second set of 'Limp Modes' (in 8 years). FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)