Urgent help needed! I’m trying to remove my propshaft at the rear Haldex connection on a MY11 FL2 to repair the fuel tank sender fault. Other posts I have read say remove the 6 torx bolts, insert a M8 bolt through one of the 2 non-threaded holes and tap. I’ve tried this and have resorted to making up a threaded bridge to force the propshaft flange off but I’m now having second thoughts. The fwd side of the flange arrangement had a rubber coating to the inner edge and my first thoughts was that it had been wet-assembled with PRC or something similar. However, then there are the “rivets” that you can see on both the front and rear faces that suggest to me that it might be a “coupling” of some thoughts. There is a band clip around the propshaft where it enters the flange, holding a rubber boot tightly sealed. Do I just need to release that and pull the splined ends out?

Any help/advice VERY warmly welcomed!

my local garage that I've used for years repaired the fuel gauge problem, including parts for £105 +very annoying tax. apparently no need to drop tank completely, with advise from local LR independent they liaise with. sender unit can be unclipped inside tank and pulled up enough to clamp modification kit to wiring.

wytonpjs wrote:

Hi Jules -VMT for getting back to me. I have real worries in my mind that the flange is actually supposed to be disassembled at all - it appears to be rubber encapsulated and those rivet heads visible at the perimeter just don’t look like they are supposed to come apart. I don’t suppose you have any pictures of the disassembled flange? I was going to release the clamp holding the rubber boot to the end of the propshaft to see whether the splines would disconnect leaving the flange in position..... As I’m up on ramps I have no easy way of rotating the propshaft to gain better access to bridge the hole as you suggest at present - I’ll look to see what I can safely do...

Thanks again!

You need to raised a front wheel to allow the propshaft to turn via the PTU differential.

The mega flange does NOT separate into two pieces but the propshaft flange comes out from inside it, See pics (as usual this website annoyingly rotates them) - but you will see how the prop shaft flange comes away.







To get the mega flange off you need to make a simple tool to bolt to the back of the mega flange (same side you put the M8 into) to hold it still whilst you undo the central nut. Then a puller to get the mega flange off the shaft - but some people on here say it comes off with a tap from a hammer.
Im not sure its a good idea to try and grip the outer circumference of the mega flange (in a big vice say) because im not sure how it is joined to the inner part of the mega flange. Jules

Hi Jules - thank you very much for posting these. The main issues that I had not reckoned with were: (1) needing to get both wheels off the ground on one side whilst I was up on the ramps to be able to rotate the propshaft, and (2) needing to drop the forward bearing/DPF support to be able to create enough space to get the propshaft flange out of the active coupling housing. Also, the only space that you can use the 3 bolt and spacer solution is by the Haldex control unit and to maximise that space, you need to remove the plug. Slow process but it does work and the flange came apart after I’d rotated it 180 degree and applied pressure through the second hole.

Very many thanks for your help! Pictures for those unfortunate enough to need to do this operation.

Well done - not technically difficult just awkward.
I did mine on a hydraulic ramp but still I took the exhaust pipe right off as I wanted the space .
Two wheels ? You only need to have one front wheel up in the air to rotate the prop. The prop is not connected to the rear diff as the haldex will be disengaged - so the rear wheels do not need to rotate. Unless of course your haldex is jammed in the locked up position. Jules

Oh dear......... Checking underneath this morning I appear to have a Haldex oil leak I believe. There's too much for it to be WD40 still seeping out and its a light oil. I have obviously disturbed something - chances of this settling down or is it just going to get worse?

What else did you do besides removing the propshaft ?

Did you do anything to the Haldex ? Jules

Thought I add a quick note to this useful thread as I've just spent most of the weekend removing the propshaft to service the haldex unit on my late model Freelander 2. Things I learnt:

- It's an a**e of a job
- on my freelander the drive flange had also seized into the outer housing
- despite resorting to some pretty large hammers, it would not tap out
- using the diff bolt locking collars as a press does not work - they just bend
- it finally separated after a night soaking in WD40 and making a suitably strong 'bridge' to push the M8 stud in.

Other things I learnt about Haldex servicing in general:

- I'm not sure how you would get the filter out without removing the input shaft hub - the filter cover was seized into the housing and you need good access from the front to get it out
- I got it off in the end by putting a screw through it and bending it downwards with mole grips
- its veru useful to have an assistant to spin one of the front wheels (with the other wedged on a block) to turn the propshaft to the right point to remove the propshaft bolts - trying to turn it yourself under the car is very hardwork
- the electrical connector tabs for the haldex unit are fragile
- I also removed the haldex control box from the side of the unit for better access

Hopefully won't have to do the job again!

yes they are a little awkward to do but its always a lot easier 2nd time around ive done a few now and can have the Haldex out in about an hour you'll need a good gun to remove the flange bolt to give you access to the pump and filter and remove the valve behind the diff control module give all these a good clean and use compressed air to gently blow the oil ways also a smear of sealant is always a good idea around the mating surface between diff and haldex as the o ring may not seal correctly due to alloy corrosion

When I was last at Bell Engineering they kindly swapped the massive late model flange for the smaller earlier one so that I could remove the haldex pump more easily in future. Doing so made no difference to the NVH within the car. Im not sure why JLR fitted the larger flange. Jules