Rack might be failing internally. Have you checked under the rack boots for possible leakage. And I take it it’s not possible to connect the rack pipes back to front? Not seen one close up, only diagrams so not sure if it’s possible to cross connect flow and return pipes.

Hi.
Due to the design of the metal pipes it is impossible to put any of them on wrong. Which would have been a easy fix if it was so.

I have just changed the sepintine belt but the old one looked nice and clean and dry. It had only been on about 18 month when I don't the timing belt change.

I'm just away to remove the steering rack boots and check them but I can't see it being a leak as I'm not loosing any fluid and so far there is no visible leaks on the rack, boots or pump ar anywhere near.

The rack was working fine before I changed the pipes and seems to work fine when she is on axle stands. Only getting heavy steering when she is on the ground and at idle. It eventually goes back to more or less perfect steering as it should after driving for a while but then now and again it goes so hard I can't steer, obviously very dangerous if I'm not careful. Thankfully I have a large empty carpark close by to do figure of 8 turns etc.

But when I leave her for 10 mins or so then it goes all hard again .
It definitely seems like a air in the system issue. Trouble is how can I force it out when the car is on the ground. ??

Another member is having similar issues. scroll to the last few posts.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39369-15.html 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Things have not gone well, when the engine is cold the power steering works perfectly but when it warms up the steering is hit or miss, one min its OK then the next its hard as hell to turn.
I have it booked into a garage on the 28th Sept for them to look at it, meanwhile i have bought a vacuum kit , i just need something to create a air tight seal on the reservoir and hopefully i can bleed it and check for air leaks before going to the garage
Looking at the fluid in the reservoir it does not seem to be flowing either. (poss air or this elusive one way valve)???
time will tell.

Hi Trev74.
What was your final outcome to this problem, or have you not solved it yet please let us know.

Unfortunately the landi is still in the garage. The pump has definitely gone now. The garage is waiting on their 3 rd rack as the first 2 have been damaged in transit.
I got them to buy an original pump Inc delivery for £ 516 .
I just don't want to take any chances.
But will keep posted.

Hi, This is my first post on this forum, not usually my thing....

My son's Freelander 2 has an issue with Power steering being very stiff after car gets warm.
It has been a really strenuous and expensive ride to try fix this issue on an old vehicle that otherwise is fantastic - 321k Kms

Historically we have replaced the bottle and pump with aftermarket pump and original bottle and PAS 2 Green fluid. This fixed temporarily but got progressively worse when vehicle got warm at low RPM. (This was done by power steering specialist company but was never perfect)

The only thing not replaced before was the steering rack and pipes

When doing the last service we asked the guys to replace pump with new aftermarket Europart pump and replace the rack with a 2nd hand one we acquired from a vehicle that had been stripped for spares (no Guarantees). The rack seemed all good - no leaks present and the fluid in it was clean when purged before fitment. The initial fit went well and when started system was thoroughly flushed - more than 2 litres of expensive fluid. On hoist all was perfect and initial test drive seemed very positive until fluid got hot then low rpm stiffness returned. (Old Rack was not leaking and only thing we could find wrong was the non return valve in the pipe connection to rack had "Fallen out" - it fell into old oil receiver and not to be refound...)

At this point we consulted with Landrover specialist (former Landrover agent) and they suggested the aftermarket pump was not good enough so we ordered another brand new Mehle pump from them.

After fitment the new pump started making a noise as soon as fluid got hot and steering now even stiffer than before and almost impossible to drive at low speed. HELP

Just a thought. The pump is belt driven, this belt goes over at least one idler pulley. On mine the pulley bearing gave up, it would work fine for a mile or two before slowing down the belt enough to make the steering VERY heavy. Eventually shredded the belt. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Interesting stories. I had a noisy steering pump. Changed the reservoir for new, fixed it. The rack has a thin balancing pipe along the top of the body. They can rust through, and also if blocked with swarf, a known fault on a batch of early racks, give a similar fault. I have installed many industrial hydraulic systems, and air in the system usually only gets noisy. I have never failed a pump with a momentary lack of fluid either. Landrover uses a lot of fluid to flush the system. Automatic transmission fluid is cheaper, and Dexron three is the same spec. on the list as well. Keep it simple, less headaches for everyone.