Hi Guys.
I need to nit pick some brains on bleeding my power steering.
The feed pipe going into the rack bust on the way home from my MOT, wost luck as its taken me 2 month to get oigional parts from Land Rover. anyway changed the feed and retun pipe and high pessure pipes. as well as the fluid bottle.
I used the 2 bottle method by bevis pit on YT to bleeed the system.
However after probably over 100 turns of the steering wheel an almost 3L of fluid i am still hearing a lot of air from the feed and return side of the rack and lots of bubles still coming up through the bottle.
all joints are dry , no leaks i can see.
I briefly started and had the car running for less than 1 minute at one point when i thought i had it only to be met with more bubbles.
have i missed something ? or any step by step on hat to do next. yes car is on axle stands.
Thanks

There's no need to use any more than the 1 bottle fitted in its normal place.
Replace the pipes and bottle, fill the bottle with the correct fluid to the MAX mark. Then turn the steering to full lock one way, check the fluid level and top up if needed. Turn the steering to full lock the other way, check the fluid level and top up in needed. Repeat 3 more times, by which time the fluid level should remain at the MAX mark, indicating that all the air has been purged.
At this point it should be safe to start the engine, without damage to the pump. Any remaining air will come out over the new few drive cycles. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

I just used the 2 bottle method to get all the old oil out as it was kind of dirty and ive never changed it in the 7 years ive had her.
ive filled the bottle and tuned side to side numerous times, each time i do the bubbles keep coming up through the bottle and i do get a quick strange noise fom the pump. (will ty to get a vid later)
i stated the car this moning and the bottle was all fothy with air so stopped her for the moment. i will let it settle , get the wheels on and give her a run with plenty full lock turns and will update later.
thanks

There was a thread on here recently similar problem there is a non return valve in the one of the pipes did you put it all back correctly?? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

??? Non return valve??
I have not seen any thing that even remotely resembles anything coming out the rack or feed/return pipes.
Any pictures of it and where exactly is it supposed to be located.
I spent the best part of 2 days getting the bottom pipe out the rack as it had corroded inside the rack. I had to very carefully drill it out.
New pipes fitted and sealed ok.
So if there is supposed to be a one way valve I will need to find it or see about getting one.
Thanks this could be my issue why it's not bleeding and the pump is now making a strange grinding noise. So new pump needed now also.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q-ULIL2nN...p=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PzpsyIIJ7...p=drivesdk

This is the bubbles and constant squishing noise.
Sorry can't upload vids to they are on my Google drive

There's clearly something amiss here. The pump shouldn't make a grinding noise, which might point to some metal getting to it from the drilling operation?

Air in the system will make the pump whine, as all the tiny air bubbles are compressed then expand rapidly.
Unfortunately these pumps aren't very tolerant of air bubbles in the fluid, which seems to damage the vanes (I believe it's a sliding vane pump), or the variable pressure drum.

Just a thought, did you use genuine pipes and hoses? I've had issues with aftermarket hoses not sealing on aftermarket solid pipes, although in my case the fluid simply dripped through the leaking seal.

I'm assuming you've used the correct green fluid, and replaced the fluid bottle? 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Read the last post in this thread as it mentions the non return valve.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39338-15.html 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Hi. Yes the parts are genuine landrover . I initially night aftermarket from eBay but the angle of the pipes were wrong and I they would not line up with the high pressure and return hoses
The original land rover were on back order so had to wait over a month for them
I replaced the resivoir with original landrover one and the fluid was Halfords hydraulic green fluid of the correct spec.

When I get the proper from landrover parts the parts guy told me not to run the engine until there was no bubbles in the system as it can damage the pump hence I never.

I have loosened the rack off from its mountain position to check for damage and all looks ok. Can't see any kind of one way valve unless it's stuck as nothing fell out.

I have got it together again last night and despite what Landrover told me I started her up and withing 20 full lock to lock the system now seems to have bleed.

Looking at the other post about the valve I haven't got the wheels on and lowered to the ground to check . I have some work to do on the shocks first and brakes.
But I will keep updated when the weather allows.

Thanks.

Nodge68 wrote:

There's clearly something amiss here. The pump shouldn't make a grinding noise, which might point to some metal getting to it from the drilling operation?

Air in the system will make the pump whine, as all the tiny air bubbles are compressed then expand rapidly.
Unfortunately these pumps aren't very tolerant of air bubbles in the fluid, which seems to damage the vanes (I believe it's a sliding vane pump), or the variable pressure drum.

Just a thought, did you use genuine pipes and hoses? I've had issues with aftermarket hoses not sealing on aftermarket solid pipes, although in my case the fluid simply dripped through the leaking seal.

I'm assuming you've used the correct green fluid, and replaced the fluid bottle?

Thanks
I have got her working now. See post below . It's going to be another few days looking at the weather and the other work I need to do before I get her on wheels and try her but will keep updated.
Thanks

Rommel wrote:

Read the last post in this thread as it mentions the non return valve.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39338-15.html

Was it the non return valve at fault? I have heard it’s a disc that sits in the rack connection before the pressure pipe screws on, but I have also seen it mentioned where the genuine pipe has the non return valve built in, so if you have further info on this please let us all know as power steering issues pops up on here frequently.

Hi chris.
I have it woking as for it still being on ramps and working.
I did take the pipes off to double check eveything but i couldnt see any damage , the only "possible" one way valve can be seen in this pic. (pic is not of mine but its identical) i never took pics which i should of.
You can see what could be a valve on the top of the rack which is not the high pressure pipe as that the bottom one.
My landrover dealer told me NOT to start the engine while there was air in the system as it would damage the pump.
When i called them again the said the car would have to be towed to them to avoid damaging the pump.
Needless to say i ignored them, I put in fluid again, went lock to lock again about 20 times and even tho there was still air prescent i ran the engine and done lock to lock again about 20 times and then topped her up. she is working as she should now as far as on the axle stands. time will tell when i get the wheels on and drive her in a few days, still got wok to do on bakes and weather permitting.
So all in all the one way valve is either in the rack like the picture or in the high pressure hose. sorry i cant be more help.
All i can say is never buy cheap £50 ones from ebay as the angle of the pipes are wrong and dont fit.
I had to wait well over a month to get genuine from land rover.

UPDATE!

All things have not gone well, I got the rest of the work finished today and put the wheels back on and let her down.
Started her up and went to reverse out the drive and i could hardly move the wheel.
stopped her and then retried again but same, i under a lot of pressure managed to get her out and took to the end of the steet and back and she got progressivly lighter and lighter how she should have been. so took her for a hr long drive. Plenty full left and right lock turns.
Got home and checked fluid which was all fine.
Got the kids in the car and i couldnt move the steering wheel , this time it was impossible to move.
Any suggestions? I done lots of full lock turns.
Thanks

I take it the auxiliary belt is tensioned ok. As I understand it, the output is variable from the pump. Did you change the main feed pipe from the pump to the rack or just the metal pipes that bolt onto the rack itself. There was a thread on a site, possibly here, where the owner had changed everything including the rack, but not the hoses and had similar issues. Turned out the internal part of the hose was collapsing and effectively creating a non return valve.

Hi.
The serpentine belt tension is fine by feel and I had just checked battery charging as it also runs the alternator and that was also ok.

I did change the metal pipes that bolted onto the rack and wrap around it and also the high pressure from the pump to the rack. Both genuine from landrover.
I would not think that the new hose would be faulty and collapse but I suppose anything is possible.

I'm will try double check everything later today again I the weather allows it but I think I'm fighting a loosing battle at the moment.