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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2154

United Kingdom 

Bogart wrote:

Thanks was losing it. All back together for tomorrows MOT. Gave her a run no errors flagged up so that is something.
Attached is a pic of the offending pipe the damge to which looks to my mind more than just age. More to my mind like abrasive damage. Could only be the aux belt setup. The new arrangement is nowhere near the pulley so Thumbs Up

That hose damage is caused by the lower engine support rubber bushing going soft, which allows the engine to move under acceleration, so the alternator pulley makes contact with the hose, wearing a hole.
It can also happen if the lower hose support bracket isn't fastened in place. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #450599 20th Jul 2025 4:10 pm
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Bogart



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 599

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Stornoway Grey

Well the plastic bracket was definitely doing nothing as was swinging free. Another cronic bit of design. With the new hose I have managed to attach the plastic bit to the bodywork so should be okay for now.
I will check it out at the next oil change.

Post #450604 20th Jul 2025 6:50 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2154

United Kingdom 

If it's not secure, the hose will contact the alternator resulting in the same failure you had.

There's how the boost hose should be secured, but I guess you know that already.

Click image to enlarge


The design is sound, but LR can't be held responsible if a previous repairer doesn't understand the reason the hose is secured. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #450605 20th Jul 2025 8:27 pm
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Bogart



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 599

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Stornoway Grey

Yes I am aware of how it is supposedly fastened using a self tapper. I in fact found it easier to do as I said, earlier in my long rambling dialogue, by tapping the plastic bit with a 5mm thread and using a bit of threaded stud to pass through the flange . I considered it much easier then to just spin a 5mm bolt onto the stud than fuff about trying to get a screw to bite. I also did consider, but in the end could not be bothered, in overlaying the area where the previous pipe got damaged with a second piece of pipe, ie a bit of pipe cut lenghtways and fastened using a couple of jubille clips. As I said though I had had enough by then so never bothered. Also in your piccy looks like the towing eye cover is missing, ama I correct. I know mine is as it fell to bits in taking it off. I really do not see what use it performs.

Post #450610 20th Jul 2025 10:52 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2154

United Kingdom 

The subframe cover was removed at the time, as I was doing some rust removal on the subframe at the same time as replacing the boost hoses.
If I do something big like removing the bumper for one job, all carry out other work in that area at the same time. It saves going back later on for another job in the same area. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #450628 21st Jul 2025 7:41 pm
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Bogart



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 599

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Stornoway Grey

Makes full sense. Less hassle the better.

Post #450633 22nd Jul 2025 9:10 am
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