Brilliant, thanks Jules. Will try that tomorrow.

Marcus97 wrote:

gasman wrote:

Have you checked to see if it's getting the correct amperage. You can get 12 volts on a single strand of wire but it won't carry the required amps. I can't remember what it should be but that is why I changed the main cables. Internal damage causing lack of amps.

Gasmam, I'm thinking this is exactly what my problem is. The new starter and extra ground cable (4 AWG) help (I've gone from no crank to crank+slow start), but I probably have damage inside the positive cable. I'm thinking of replacing it with a 2 AWG or even 1/0 AWG cable...do you remember which you used? I'm seeing wildly different current capacities for each gauge.

UPDATE

So after going through all the steps suggested by the members of this forum, the vehicle has reliably cranks 100% of the time. I've put on around 12,000kms since then. However, the crank time has always been a bit long, and occasionally the engine fails to actually start (maybe 1/10 times), altough it then always starts on the second try.

However yesterday, after the second crank, the check engine light came on.

Code P0300, P0304, P0305, P0306.

Could the PCV valve be failing? My engine oil smells like gas...

Aside from that, no issue. Fuel consumption and performance seem fine (10.2L/100kms, mostly highway).

Thanks again to everyone - your knowledge is appreciated!

Correct

The PCV feeds the crankcase vapors to cylinders 6 5 4 3 2 1

And you have misfiring in 6 5 4

The PCV should be replaced with a genuine part or an aftermarket part that is marked FOMOCO

Good luck

Paul

PS I recommend that you get a scan tool that can check Mode $6 data and then you can see the actual misfire counts instead of just waiting for the counts to be so high that they set a code

The tool that I bought cost less than $100

Thank you!

Is it advisable to start by simply cleaning out the oil trap under the valve, to see if that helps in any way?

The part isn’t that expensive

I would just replace it.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32107.html


You can buy just the membrane and cover but removing the old cover is a challenge.

?si=5Wb7rjMCJLeBYpZh

Good luck

Paul

Thanks Paul, you're a life saver. I'll change the membrane and cover (220$ difference seems worth the challenge) and will report back.

Alright, the new part arrived and has been installed without issue. The car starts up much faster now.

Upon inspection of the old membrane, I noticed a very small tear on the outermost edge. Probably just enough to cause a vacuum leak during startup.

Time will tell if the check-engine comes back on (I cleared it with my OBD2).

Thanks again!

UPDATE

Well, the car is back to its old shenanigans. The codes are back (P0300, P0304, P0305, P0306).
I suspect a problem with fuel delivery, but before I spend big bucks, I think I'll start by replacing the sparks plugs. I'm not exactly sure when they were last replaced.

Thoughts?

Last edited by Marcus97 on 26th Jul 2025 7:15 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I don't have a gap tool, but this is definitely in need of replacement, correct?

Interestingly, the third (from the left) spark plug was soaked in oil. I figure the tube seal is failing and let in some oil I spilled when topping-off the vehicle. In any case, this wouldn't easily explain my misfire of cylinder 4-6.

I'm not sure that this could explain my misfire codes, but I don't think my fuel pump primes when I dock the key fob. I don't hear anything at all.

From another post, I see that:
"With the remote handset inserted in the start control module and the stop/start button is pressed, the start control module issues battery voltage high signal on the LIN bus connection to the CJB and the fuel pump is run for 2 seconds to prime the fuel system."

How could I test to see if:
1) the starter control module is sending the high voltage signal
2) that the CJB is doing what it should when it receives the signal from the starter control module

Thanks!!