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IanMetro

Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 3391

2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

Badger51 wrote:
There are so many variables with your issue, that in my opinion, you should take it to your local aircon shop & get it looked at by people that (hopefully) a: know what they are doing & b: have the equipment to do the job properly (& legally)! They should be able to pinpoint the problem quickly.

Having said all that, you clearly have an issue with the system. You can carry out some simple diagnosis yourself by checking things like the compressor clutch operation, pressure switch operation etc.

Badger has the right idea.
The Climate Control System is quite complicated in that it depends on many inputs and everything is electronically controlled. I think that both the Compressor and Cooling Fans work on Pulse Width Modulated power, from the control module.
You have discovered one confirmed pressure fault, take it to an A/C Expert and get it fixed.
Changing odd modules and parts will be more expensive in the end. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 83k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

26th Jun 2025 1:58 pm

Mrdeli100

Member Since: 23 Apr 2020
Location: Wirral
Posts: 85

2013 Freelander 2 SD4 Dynamic Auto Orkney Grey

So as I understand the air con will not function when the cooling fans will not work, so I’m trying to find out why they are not spinning.

I have tested the purple trigger wire from pin to pin and that is ok. I have tested the fan module and that’s ok. I have checked that the fans work by connecting them straight to 12v, so running out of ideas.

Still love the Freelander - I think this is what I’ve seen described as personality. 🙃

26th Jun 2025 9:00 pm

Badger51

Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Korora
Posts: 1007

Have you bypassed the pressure switch as i suggested previously? If so, did the clutch then engage? (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

26th Jun 2025 11:19 pm

Mrdeli100

Member Since: 23 Apr 2020
Location: Wirral
Posts: 85

Could you describe how I bypass the pressure switch. Many thanks mark.

27th Jun 2025 6:34 am

IanMetro

Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 3391

I think this thread continues in thread below?

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post450200.html#450200 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 83k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

27th Jun 2025 12:02 pm

Mrdeli100

Member Since: 23 Apr 2020
Location: Wirral
Posts: 85

The fans don’t come on under any circumstances as far as I can tell. For instance when it was very hot the other week I left the car idling after a run and the engine bay felt hot, but the fans did not come on.

I suspect this is why the aircon does not work - but could be wrong.

Thanks mark

27th Jun 2025 12:12 pm

Mrdeli100

Member Since: 23 Apr 2020
Location: Wirral
Posts: 85

27th Jun 2025 12:13 pm

Mrdeli100

Member Since: 23 Apr 2020
Location: Wirral
Posts: 85

p_gill wrote:
I agree with lite water check the fuse and possibly a relay (I am traveling and I only have my phone so I can’t check the schematics)

Also do the following

1. Turn on the engine and switch off the heater/AC in the vehicle

2. Confirm the radiator fan is off

3. Turn on the fan in the LR2 to high and set the temperature to the lowest setting and make sure that you don’t have the light for ECO on because that shuts off the AC

4. Did the radiator fan turn on?

Good luck

Paul

Unfortunately the fan did not turn on. Thank you for your help.

28th Jun 2025 12:21 am

IanMetro

Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 3391

Mrdeli100 wrote:
The fans don’t come on under any circumstances as far as I can tell. For instance when it was very hot the other week I left the car idling after a run and the engine bay felt hot, but the fans did not come on.

I suspect this is why the aircon does not work - but could be wrong.

Thanks mark

From what I read in your thread, you appear to have proved everything to do locally with the fans/wiring/module work.

Therefore you need to find what in the cars/logics/sensors is telling the vehicle logic not to call for the fans to work.

I think you need to carefully check all systems that could influence the controlling modules and note down and problems you find and clear up any other (minor?) faults found.
example do you have outside temperature showing?

Perhaps starting with the climate control and check which bits DO work and which bits don't.
examples internal flaps, blower, indications.

It may not be a direct connection as info is sent around by BUS. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 83k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

28th Jun 2025 7:27 pm

Badger51

Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Korora
Posts: 1007

Mrdeli100 wrote:
Could you describe how I bypass the pressure switch. Many thanks mark.

Sorry Mark, but if you have to ask, then I'd not recommend you do it, because if you get it wrong you will fry the ECM! (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

29th Jun 2025 5:51 am

Mrdeli100

Member Since: 23 Apr 2020
Location: Wirral
Posts: 85

I’m sure I can do it without frying the ecu, it’s just not something I’ve done before so would appreciate a little guidance - thanks.

6th Jul 2025 7:19 am

Lightwater

Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney Northern Beaches
Posts: 5032

2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

Badger51 wrote:
Mrdeli100 wrote:
Could you describe how I bypass the pressure switch. Many thanks mark.

Sorry Mark, but if you have to ask, then I'd not recommend you do it, because if you get it wrong you will fry the ECM!

A few of the very knowledgeable people have made this exact point. Stuartc made a number of comments in this area. Also not providing the steps as people still got this wrong & then tried to blame you. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

6th Jul 2025 8:20 am

Mrdeli100

Member Since: 23 Apr 2020
Location: Wirral
Posts: 85

So today I tested the connector to the compressor clutch.

With the a/c off it reads 0 volts and with the ac switch on it reads 14 volts.

The clutch however does not engage.

Does this indicate that the compressor clutch is faulty? If so am I best to just replace the compressor.

Anyone have a guide for this?

If indeed it is a faulty a/c clutch, I don’t understand why the fans don’t come on - do they sense the additional load that the compressor adds to an idling engine or is something else going on??

Many thanks Mark.

6th Jul 2025 7:56 pm

Boxa

Member Since: 01 Apr 2024
Location: Coventry
Posts: 141

2013 Freelander 2 TD4 Dynamic Auto Santorini Black

if you have voltage with AC switched on then there's a problem with the clutch not engaging and fans possibly won't work until the ecu thinks everything is ok I would try replacing the clutch on the compressor
its a good starting point and not that expensive plenty on the BAY

7th Jul 2025 1:21 am

Mrdeli100

Member Since: 23 Apr 2020
Location: Wirral
Posts: 85

Thank you 👍

7th Jul 2025 7:58 am

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