So, I recently removed the haldex gen 3 from my 2010 freelander 2. bell engineering fitted a new Dif, and did a haldex service about 18 months ago. The haldex was making a bit of a grumbling noise, when reversing, and had got a lot worse over that period of time. I pulled the fuse and ran it like that for a couple of month till I had some time.
Anyway, haldex removed. filter changed, pump filter cleaned (Not very dirty) and the ecu removed, and the valve removed and cleaned. I also removed the basket, and cleaned and checked all the plates. (they all looked serviceable) Put all the haldex back together, and fitted it back onto the car. I put in new haldex oil (650ml) as per instructions that I found somewhere.
Did about 20 full lock reverse turns, and no nasty grinding noises. Forgot to mention that I had put the fuse back in. I am aware that the scrabbling and noise can apparently return after about 25 to 50 miles. If it does, I should at least know that the internals of the big spring bit that you can't touch may well be knackered, and I can consider the ecu scrabble fix.
NOW DOWN TO THE ACTUAL PROBLEM...........
I drove the car, and after about a mile, the message Transmission system fault. reduced traction appears.
I don't get a yellow warning triangle. Just a beep, beep and the message. also the yellow light near my traction control knob goes out.
I will have a climb under and check the wiring connectors to the haldex tomorrow, and the only other thing that might be worth mentioning is that I left the boot open overnight a couple of days ago, and completely drained the battery. I did put it on charge, and had no problem starting the car a couple of days later, after I had fitted the haldex.
I brought the car home, and left it running for a hour, just in case the battery was a bit low (2 1/2 years old)
Took the car out for a drive, and it was fine for about 5 miles, then the fault message returned.
Left the car sitting for about 30 mins (not running) started the car and it ran for about 5 miles before the message returned. Pulled over, turned off and back on (no message) ran car and the message returned after a couple of hundred meters....
Thats were I am at now. any ideas ?
Thanks for any help offered.

Need to have fault codes read which may pinpoint where the issue is, eg pump pressure, or control circuit etc. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I have got a decent obd2 reader, so I will run that in the morning.Obviously won't be as good as running jlr software, but will see what I can find.

So, the code I have got up is.......U0114-68

I know that U0114 is lost communication with 4 wheel drive clutch control module.

any idea what the -68 means ?

From the code I would think that you have damaged some wiring around the control module.
From the internet, the 65 part just means that the control module timed out while waiting for a signal.

So, check power and earth, and wiring and connectors around the area you have been working.
If it seems to be working intermittently then some wiring is loose or damaged and touching. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Or the control module itself?
Had a VW version repaired by a company called 'Auto fault finder'. Very helpful knowledgeable guy when it comes to haldex problems. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Thanks Ian and Bobupanddown.
So I stuck it up on the ramps, crawled under and removed both of the connectors to the haldex. cleaned both of the connections and the recipient ports in the haldex with contact cleaner spray. left them to dry for about 10mins.
I reconnected both however the smaller one with two wires that carries power to the pump had the stay on safety plug broken. So I ensured that that wasn't wobbling loose by fitting a couple of cable ties. I did check where the larger plug wiring disappeared into the bodywork, and couldn't see any chafing of the cable. I then cleared the code.
Took it for a drive for about 10 miles, and got the dreaded beep beep.
pulled into a petrol station, turned off and on. All systems working....
Drove another 4 miles, and the beep beep returned.
Turned off and on in stationary traffic, and drove another 3.5 miles home with no beep beep occurring .
it is very frustrating....

Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd – Haldex Mail order parts and ECU repair services https://share.google/52JZBknOl2IeYgvWh

Have a read of this, lots of information, very knowledgeable guy. I do suspect it's your ecu causing the problem. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Cheers Bobupanddown. Im going to shoot the car. Either that or ring the guy for a chat. I had no bloody fault before I took off the haldex for being a grinding ....

little jimmy wrote:

So, the code I have got up is.......U0114-68

I know that U0114 is lost communication with 4 wheel drive clutch control module.

any idea what the -68 means ?

Sorry I got suffix wrong -68 is lack of comms between Haldex and Rear Diff Control Unit.

I haven't had time to look up all the online info, but the comments in the above post still apply.

By the way how good is your battery and alternator, have you a good constant 12v supply?

Is your earthing point corroded?

 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

So. I checked the following with a multi-meter, set to 20volt DC
No key in. Red to+battery, Black to engine. 12.63volts To check ground.
No key in. Red to+battery, Black to -battery. 12.63 volts.
Key in......." " " " " " " " " . 12.57 volts.
ignition on. " " " " " " " " " . 12.27 volts.
Engine running, no load. " " " " " . 13.9 volts.
Engine running, with load.
Full beam. Heated seats.
Fogs and spots. Fan on full.
AC on. Heated seats on. " " " " " . 13.88 volts.
Engine on. No load.
Rev to 2100rpm and hold " " " " . 13.82 volts

Engine running. No load. Red to alternator body. Black to -battery...... 0.01 volt.
" " " " " " " . Red to alternator body. Black to +battery......0.02 volt.
" " " " " " " . Red to alternator output. Black to -battery. 13.86 volt.
" " " " " " " revving to 2500rpm and hold. Red to alternator output. Black to-battery. 13.85volt

The battery is a Yuasa 12volt 85Ah

Any idea if the above results seem ok ?

Don't forget that I ran the battery to flat when I was doing the haldex rebuild (think I might have left the boot open.

I have checked the wires to the Haldex again, There is no chaffing that I can see.

When I took the eco off the haldex, before I stripped it, I set it to One side. didn't drop it or screw around with it in any way. Can I really have busted it but just handling it ?

Thanks for any help offered as always.

The pcb within the control unit can degrade due to moisture getting in. Ours had corroded in one area making it non repairable, replacement pcb by autofaultfinder sorted it. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Mine was as clean as a whistle inside.

Anybody got any idea if my test results for the battery and alternator look ok ?

The Haldex control wiring chafing on the subframe appears to be the issue now and again.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31967.html