update on the problem, spoke with the garage that did the timing belt for me and decided to take the car in for a scan, they also test drove the car.

Typically the car performed perfectly on the drive to the garage and test drive.

The scan showed no faults and live data looked ok.

So given the information found on the forum regarding the CPS i have booked the car in for the garage to replace it as the cost is very little more than I can buy the sensor for. They also did not charge me for the scan etc today.

fingers crossed that fixes the problem.

A crank sensor replacement is a simple DIY job. It's only secured by a single 10mm head bolt. I've done 2 on the roadside, both in under 10 minutes to be on my way again. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

having replaced the crank sensor and driving the car for a few days the fault has not gone away.
my xtool code reader and the garage code read showed no stored or pending DTC.

now today the car finally decided to go into reduced engine performance and I read the codes
P007A -17 charge air cooler temperature sensor, circuit - Bank 1 Intermittent

at last a code.

now it’s a 2011 fl2 which i belive has the IAT sensor in the throttle body housing so my question please is is this a simple job that can be replaced without removing the throttle body housing?

thank you.

I presume you mean the MAP sensor……Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor………which I had a problem with last October…………easy to change……one bolt…sensor mounted on front of throttle housing……
At same time I would check the turbo hose below housing……………quite often splits…leaking turbo pressure which can give lots of problems….trust me….!
Good luck….Pete

Édit : If you mean the Intake Absolute Temporature Sensor……I’m fairly certain it’s part of the MAF sensor……not on the throttle housing…..it’s next to the air cleaner……..I had a problem with that also Octobre last………..check turbo hose first… FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Thank you for your reply, the turbo hose was changed a few months ago as had split.

The fault code is for air cooler temperature sensor, that from what I found via google for my year of FL2 2011 is fitted to the throttle body, if was from 2013 it changed to be part of the MAF sensor according to what i have found on google, but can find no reference to if it can be changed without removing the throttle body.

anybody know? i wil also start a new thread.

Good…at least the hose is ok……
This sensor business is confusing…….reading another thread Home>General>Fault code …..started by Mrdeli100 19Feb 2024……..it seems that around 2012 the Inlet Air Temp sensor was deleted…..the sensor being integrated into the MAF sensor. I suggest having a look to see if a sensor is there….or is it blanked-off……? If you can’t find a sensor I guess either you have a faulty MAF sensor or it’s a spurious code reading / wiring problem…….
Good luck…. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Than you for the reply, certainly confusing, googling the part for my TD4 by number plate shows it as a sensor in the throttle housing, why do cars have to be so freaking frustrating 😂

have started a new topic

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic40923.html

obviously trying to help myself and others going forward if they have same symptoms.

will lift the bonnet shortly and have a look , if all else fails garage can change it, if part of the MAF needs a mass air flow calibration done if changed apparently, so not even that is just a simple replacement.