Hello everyone, I periodically have a problem, suddenly the car accelerates only slowly, but does not go into limp mode, nothing lights up on the dashboard and I have no error codes. But I found that if I reset the throttle in the tester normal power and acceleration comes back. So first I took the throttle body apart to take a look inside. The flap seemed stuck, but when I moved it let go, I couldn't find the reason. The plastic sprockets are absolutely ok, like new although the car has some mileage (130 miles). What I found interesting is that there was quite a large amount of viscous black liquid in the mechanism, several spoons. I don't understand where it came in, did the manufacturer put it? Above the pinion on the throttle shaft is a potentiometer plate whose signal is picked up by two brushes. For now I cleaned everything with degreasing spray. Does anyone know if that board needs to be greased with something? What about the gears? After I get the throttle body back on I'll keep you posted on the effects.[img]

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Last edited by Galen on 27th Apr 2023 5:59 am. Edited 1 time in total

The oil should not be in the actuator body, the gears are greased, there images of other actuators showing how the inside should look.

There is a leak from the throttle tube. If its wear over time I would just renew the entire body. What mileage

Thanks for the reply. You are absolutely right, it is oil and should not have gotten into the throttle control module. It came in time (130k miles) via the crankcase breather pipe connected to the intake manifold. Perhaps due to overpressure. I greased the pinions which are in perfect condition with aviation lithium base grease, fitted the case cover back and tool checked the operation of the potentiometer (min 1.5kohmi-max 3kohmi). I also fed the servo motor with a 12 volt source and the flap now works perfectly. I'm not putting the valve back on because I also want to change the spark plugs and maybe remove the swirl flaps. I'll be back with a fix report after I'm done. I'm not in a hurry, I'm using another car.

Tired of frequent error deletions I changed the intake valve. I mounted the Pierburg model. I have no more errors.

Hi Arctic, all
How did things work out with the repair kit?
Selling for around £30 in the UK, much cheaper than a new assembly
Thanks
Jim Brgds
Jim
2007 FL2 TD4

Quote:

Hi Arctic, all
How did things work out with the repair kit?
Selling for around £30 in the UK, much cheaper than a new assembly
Thanks
Jim

Sound advice Arctic, many thanks Brgds
Jim
2007 FL2 TD4

alex_pescaru wrote:

Nymagee_Boy wrote:

Further, one could ignore purchase and the FL2 would still operate, though there may be the occasional "run-on" at engine shutdown.

Being an electronically controlled injection system, I believe that there will be no "run-on" as the ECU will cut totally the fuel when powering off, but it will be a bigger engine shutdown shudder.

But you run the risk of the engine running on if there is any oil getting into the cylinders, for example as a result of worn piston rings or a turbo bearing oil seal for example.