Hi all. Was out in the car today (2013 TD4 manual box) to get brake fluid to flush and renew the brake and clutch circuit.
Out of the blue when pressing the accelerator the revs climbed much slower than usual and there was very little response as if the car had gone into limp mode. Then a few minutes later the revs would climb as normal but no pick up as if the clutch was slipping. I was in traffic at the time so only using first second and third gears but when I got moving it also did it in fourth fifth and sixth for a while and then suddenly went back to normal! There were no warnings flashed up on the dash nor engine management light. I'm really scratching my head as to what it was and a little concerned that it could be an early warning of something about to crap itself.
I did a basic service on it yesterday (oil & filter, fuel filter and air filter) and changed the key fob battery today but really don't think any of that has anything to do with the glitch today lol..?
Regarding the clutch, for the last couple of months I have been having a hesitant pedal return on the last 2 or 3 centimeters of travel but no slipping or fluid loss. I have read all the threads on clutch pedal problems / slave cylinder leaking etc etc and due to my pedal getting a bit a notchy I was planning to preempt it and have the slave and clutch changed when I drive back to UK visiting family for xmas as its the original one on 108k miles. Not so sure I want to risk the big drive back up now after what happened today... has anyone else experienced this before, would really appreciate your thoughts?

Cheers, Rob.

If you search Fuel Filter on this site you will find quite a few stories similar to yours.

I take it that you used an approved fuel filter (with valve), and you have looked for any fault codes with OBD reader.

Have a look through these threads

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Thanks for the reply Ian, there are some interesting posts in the link you provided.
The fuel filter may well be the problem but don't know for sure as I don't have a OBD fault reader to verify.
The filter I used was part of the 'KIT 105' from Advanced Factors but just noticed the part number LR001313ES is different to the previous few kits (KIT 105G) I got from them which were LR001313; the only difference I can see between the filters is that the push release collar on the tank to filter connection is green instead of white but I assume thats just because its an after market filter instead of land rover original which has the white collar..? I wander what the 'ES' relates to.
I primed the filter the same way as I usually do using a vacuum pump to draw fuel through it from tank - never had this problem before doing it like this.
In the pic there is debris around the filter housing which is disintegrated foam from under the engine cover which I cleaned have now removed the foam completely, but I'm pretty sure nothing got in the fuel line to cause problems.

The LR001313ES seems unique to the Russian Sites

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=%22lr001...nt=gws-wiz

https://lrparts.ru/katalog/freelander-2/2-...d-1-detail

Perhaps Nodge, or one other of the clued up members, can enlighten us.

Otherwise, as the FL2 closely monitors its various systems, I do advice you get some type of OBD reader (even a cheap one) if you are going to try to diagnose and repair your car. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

That clutch problem sounds familiar mine is a bit hesitant to return upwards sometimes but if there’s no leak at the bell housing joint it’ll be ok for your journey I’d say
P 154k miles from new!

Advanced factors should supply an OE or genuine filter. The OE filter has Purflux on the top.
I'm not sure about the connection of the fuel filter and clutch issue, unless I've misread something. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

RobP wrote:

Out of the blue when pressing the accelerator the revs climbed much slower than usual and there was very little response as if the car had gone into limp mode. Then a few minutes later the revs would climb as normal but no pick up as if the clutch was slipping. I was in traffic at the time so only using first second and third gears but when I got moving it also did it in fourth fifth and sixth for a while and then suddenly went back to normal! There were no warnings flashed up on the dash nor engine management light. I'm really scratching my head as to what it was and a little concerned that it could be an early warning of something about to crap itself.
I did a basic service on it yesterday (oil & filter, fuel filter and air filter) and changed the key fob battery today but really don't think any of that has anything to do with the glitch today lol..?
Not so sure I want to risk the big drive back up now after what happened today... has anyone else experienced this before, would really appreciate your thoughts?

Cheers, Rob.

Nodge, Ian, yes two different problems but I initially thought it was the clutch losing the will to live.

I re-primed the fuel filter again the other day and immediately saw a few bubbles wizz through the pipe for a second or two, problem seems to have settled down now...
But... I also checked the brake / clutch fluid reservoir and it was about 1cm below the max mark whereas it was on max the other day. I checked underneath and found oil on the bell-housing so I would imagine this confirms the slave has had too much slavery. Just ordered a LUK kit containing DMF & bolts, clutch plate & cover, and slave cylinder. Also ordered a master cylinder and crank oil seal for completeness and hopefully no worries in the future.

petefeet wrote:

That clutch problem sounds familiar mine is a bit hesitant to return upwards sometimes but if there’s no leak at the bell housing joint it’ll be ok for your journey I’d say
P

IanMetro wrote:

The LR001313ES seems unique to the Russian Sites

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=%22lr001...nt=gws-wiz

https://lrparts.ru/katalog/freelander-2/2-...d-1-detail

Perhaps Nodge, or one other of the clued up members, can enlighten us.

Otherwise, as the FL2 closely monitors its various systems, I do advice you get some type of OBD reader (even a cheap one) if you are going to try to diagnose and repair your car.

I have an extremely cheap basic OBD Reader. I bought it in a sale for about £10 in Aldi.

This review explains what it does (not much more than read the codes) It is a little slow in down loading the information and may display no errors found if hurried.

For a full JLR code set (and detail) I believe that you would need a better, much more expensive Reader.
As I am no longer able to crawl under or around the mechanics of my FL2, this gives a clue of what the car thinks is wrong.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=aldi+...ORM%3DVDRE

I am sure that you will get advice on this forum.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...p;start=50 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)