& thanks for the update and solution.

No problem!

Now if anyone in a pre 2012 car needs a rear wiper motor, i have two spares... not yet got enough posts on the forum to advertise these in the sales area though 🤣 2014 Metropolis in Loire Blue

2014 TD4 XS in Loire Blue (Sold)

2007 HSE in Black (Now gone!)

I wonder how many spare wiper motors are in sheds across the country. I have one myself just in case

£191 ex VAT 4KIN ELL ! 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Issue here is that at the moment its an LR only part, even though its made by Valeo. Valeo can sell you the earlier model directly, but not yet selling the later part directly. I think that agreement ends after 10 years, so there sbould be an improvement here soon.

Personally, if this one breaks, i will simply repair it using a fiesta motor and internals... i think the only specific bit here is the contact wheel so thats all that needs saved 2014 Metropolis in Loire Blue

2014 TD4 XS in Loire Blue (Sold)

2007 HSE in Black (Now gone!)

Hi,
Hope you guys don’t mind me tagging along.
My wife’s 2010 gs model has an intermittent rear wiper problem. Or should I say used to have a problem!
I dismantled the motor to find the large yellow cog was contaminated on the rear face. It has a copper disc which had turned green, so I wiped it clean. After rebuilding the motor it works perfect. No part’s were replaced, just a clean up of the disc and contacts. Our wiper fault was that it would sweep when it wanted, and rest partway through a sweep; then it died completely.
Testing for power in the wires proved the fault lay with the motor. In our case we didn’t need to replace the motor, or control stalk.

I had faulty rear wiper when I bought my FL2 18 months ago. Stuck halfway on window.
I had had the same on my D2. Took the assembly off stripped down and cleaned out all the old hard grease and dirt, put back on and been perfect ever since..
You have to start with the easiest possible cause. Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

Update:::
Motor stopped working again, so after researching the problem I found the answer.

I bought a motor from a 2008 fiesta mk6 with good carbon bushes, you can separate the motor from the fiesta mechanism housing.
I used a magnet to hold the metal fixing plates whilst removing the motor screw. Do this to both sides and pull the motor free. (you may need to remove the mechanism backing plate first for screws to be removed). The carbon motor bushes on the FL2 unit had perished, hence a weak performance and the arm sticking.

You can either remove the plastic bush housing and motor from a compatible donor and transfer it to the FL2 mechanism. Or see if you can source new bushes.

Please note: the shaft on the fiesta unit that passes through the rear window is too short for the FL2. So only swapping out the bush housing and motor is key. Fit the bush housing to the motor first, using a thin bladed tool to manipulate the bushes into place. Fit motor into the rotary mechanism first. Once securely in place, hold the screw axel that meshes with the plastic wheel tightly before fitting the motor cover…… This is because if you just try and put the motor cover back on without holding the gear shaft, the motor whips back in the motor cover, attracted by the magnets… . The bush housing stays on the mechanism and your back to square one. Annoying…

It’s so much easier to attach the bush housing to the Motor first before adding the case.
Finally use the magnet again to hold the metal plates then secure the motor with the two screws. Using the magnet trick is like using a really useful set of hands whilst you locate and tighten the screw.

Refit motor and check it works before putting everything else back.

So the bottom line is that it was the carbon brushes wearing out. Plain and simple.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the tips