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ddenise60



Member Since: 19 Jun 2020
Location: East yorkshire
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Orkney Grey
Reduced engine performance/turbo boost

Following on from my reduced engine performance problems . Codes showed turbo boost fault, so went to garage who said I need a new turbo so booked it in , for Monday. To day on way home the turbo kicked in and now showing no faults. Anyone any ideas , could I have a sensor fault or could it be dry joints on actuator circuit board.

Post #417091 14th Jan 2022 7:20 pm
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pinhead



Member Since: 12 Nov 2013
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 37

If you can get under the car pop the rod off the turbo actuator and try and move the vanes in the turbo they should be easy to move
If they are stiff you may be able to free them up by moving them back and forth repeatedly
If they are free and the turbo doesn't make any strange noises I don't think it will be the turbo

Post #417095 14th Jan 2022 8:09 pm
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ddenise60



Member Since: 19 Jun 2020
Location: East yorkshire
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Orkney Grey

Thanks for the reply pinhead will try that in the morning, just can't understand why it's not worked at all for the last week then suddenly bursts into life today and shows no faults

Post #417096 14th Jan 2022 8:20 pm
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gasman



Member Since: 02 May 2013
Location: Tyneside
Posts: 599

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Zermatt Silver

If as Pinhead mentioned, the actuator does not move freely, the variable geometry part of the turbo will be clogged with carbon (soot).
My solution to this was to disconnect and remove the front section of the exhaust, don't forget the oxygen sensor, and clean it with oven cleaner.
Take the tube from a can of WD 40 and put it on the oven cleaner can. This will allow you to gently push past the turbine wheel. Fill up the turbo with the cleaner ( don't allow it to come in to contact with alloy parts ).
Let it stand for 20 minutes, then work the actuator linkage, previous disconnected from the electronic control unit.
Repeat until the actuator moves freely.
Flush out the remaining oven cleaner and carbon with plenty of carb cleaner. Again flush off any that has come into contact with alloy parts.
Reconnect turbo actuator and exhaust.
Start car and rev engine, this will expel the remaining carbon.

Most importantly. Safety goggles and gloves. This stuff can be nasty.

I am not advocating this method but it worked for me.
There are also several videos on YouTube detailing similar operations.

Hope this helps. Thumbs Up Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.

Post #417097 14th Jan 2022 8:35 pm
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ddenise60



Member Since: 19 Jun 2020
Location: East yorkshire
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Orkney Grey

Thanks for the advice willing to try any ideas that will save me forking out £1100 pound on Monday for turbo replacement

Post #417098 14th Jan 2022 8:43 pm
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Geobloke



Member Since: 03 Nov 2018
Location: Darkest Denbighshire
Posts: 48

Wales 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Zermatt Silver

Before you commit check your rubber hoses for splits, a big enough split in a hose can cause turbo boost problems.

Post #417099 14th Jan 2022 9:10 pm
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Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 719

Australia 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Nazca Sand

Had you guys read his original post, you would see that this has already been covered. Starting a second post re the same issue just clouds the problem & gets repeated/similar comments IMHO.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post416821.html#416821 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
165500Km as of 12/21
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II

Post #417102 14th Jan 2022 11:11 pm
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ddenise60



Member Since: 19 Jun 2020
Location: East yorkshire
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Orkney Grey

Whot I was asking was .After a week of having no turbo boost and it now suddenly on my way home it started working as it should. Was does anyone. Know if the problem lays else where .ie a faulty sensor or maybe egr that would cause my turbo to stop working

Post #417106 15th Jan 2022 12:13 am
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Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 719

Australia 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Nazca Sand

@ddenise60, had you gone through the fault finding previously suggested & reported back, we might have been able to come up with a fix. However, you appear to have taken it to a garage & they have diagnosed a faulty turbo. Their diagnosis process could have involved inspecting/moving the turbo vane arm & actuator. This may have been stuck, for whatever reason, as previously suggested. The fact that the turbo started working seems to suggest that this is possible scenario.
Have you personally looked at the turbo & actuator linkage? It is a known issue & does need lubrication, which tends to get ignored by many.
Continuing with your original post would have kept all the comments in one thread, rather than spread around the place. 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
165500Km as of 12/21
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II

Post #417108 15th Jan 2022 12:55 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 2929

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

ddenise60 wrote:
Thanks for the advice willing to try any ideas that will save me forking out £1100 pound on Monday for turbo replacement


just remember to disconnect the electronic controller from the turbo vane actuator arm before wiggling the turbo vanes. Jules

Post #417115 15th Jan 2022 10:07 am
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