Hi well all the Pistons are back in but i need the Big End toque settings can any body help
2007 2.2
Thanks Michael

https://www.fixya.com/cars/t27036754-pleas...ngs_torque
This might help.
Have you tried the workshop manual?

I struggled to find them last year.
I think I did mine 25Nm, + 60°, which seems to be holding up.
The bolts definitely weren't tight to remove, however you do need new bolts for rebuilding it.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

thanks every body

Jaguarman22 wrote:

Hi well all the Pistons are back in but i need the Big End toque settings can any body help
2007 2.2
Thanks Michael

@Michael
Can I suggest you make your Subject title more explicit for people searching threads in the future.
eg Big End TD4 Torque Settings

I looked in both Haynes and the JLR manuals and couldn't find the values.

Maybe search on google "PSA DW12 engine" etc Jules

Further searches on DW12 engines found this...
According to Hayes no information on specs is available for the bottom end at time of writing.
According to some Ford forums , the bottom end was not intended to be disassembled but replaced en-masse (ie a "short" engine) as the tolerances are so fine.

On other PSA engines torque is 30nm + 90 degrees. Jules

Thanks for that and yes i will make thins easer to find
Ford did this with the 2.7 Diesel in the Range Rover
Michael

I had a reply to my searching from a Ford Owners Club member...

"I have a Haynes manual for the S-Max 2.2 ( I have a 2011 2.2 Mondeo), no idea if it's referred to as a DW12 ( I know the 2.0 were DW10C etc).
Anyway it lists engine codes Q4WA, KNWA and KNWB and all have the same torque settings for the big end bearing caps (is that what you want?) 20NM and then 70 degrees, must use new bolts." (sic)

Is this any help ? Jules

Hi, would anyone happen to know the torque spec (if there is one) for the engine undertray bolts on a Freelander 2? I can't seem to find the info anywhere. Thanks

There's no critical torque value involved in holding the under tray on, just tighten them up with a ratchet to a sensible amount, assuming you've done a bit of spannering in the past.
(I don't say that to be smart or disingenuous but someone who's never used a socket set before perhaps hasn't got the 'feel' for when a bolt is tight enough it could be too loose or too tight.) Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

No offense taken I'm absolutely starting out in this domain, so I’ll just tighten them sensibly as you suggested. Thank you

Found it this time of looking ...

Page 2083

Engine undershield bolts 60Nm, 42lb-ft


More than just nipped up. Jules

That will be because the undertray is part of the stressed subframe. The car shouldn’t be driven without one.

Yes - some don't realise its a structural part - its mentioned in the JLR manual though Jules