I've owned my Freel2 since new in 2008

Mine is the 3.2 Petrol version

When is it going to become unreliable.

So far I've had the replace

1. Thermostat
2. Starter
3. Battery (every 4 years)
4. Alternator overdrive pulley
5. Motor Mounts
6. Radiator Fan
7. Anti Drain Valve in oil filter housing

Note: I also own a Volvo S80 with the same engine that I purchased used and I've replaced the same items except the Alternator pulley (previous owner replaced the alternator) and the starter. The cost to replace these items is about $1000.

Thirteen and a half years and $1000 in parts.

That a completely unacceptable $79 per year.

Maybe I should have bought a Toyota so that I could get that down to $78.99 per year.

That Pence savings would be life altering.

In summary the parts that I replaced on my LR2 are the same parts that I replaced on my S80 except that the S80 also needed a AC compressor replaced for an extra $500. So my LR2 is just as reliable as a Volvo which it borrowed a lot of parts from.

Here is the video that I saw that made me write this

Thanks Mike for providing completely useless information



One last thought when my neighbors with their Toyotas have problems who do you think they ask for help?

Option 1. other Toyota owners

Option 2. their neighbor with the Land Rover



Take care

Paul

In Australia there are Toyota service centres in every one horse town, because they need fixing all the time.

One example when we were coming down the Oodnadatta Track in 2019 a Toyota LandCruisers had no brakes & he basically had to roll the car to a stop back to civilization. Luckily it's pretty flat out there. But it is very inconvenient. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I never had any reliability issues with our FL2 and am now on my third Volvo, fingers crossed it will be as reliable as the other two proved to be

I had a 2014 GS 2.2 TD4 for 5 years and 80k miles and beside routine servicing and timing belt (I never do more than 70k on a timing belt) only replaced.

o/s front and o/s rear door lock actuator motors (not the complete actuator).
Main Battery at 78k and 7 years old.

Very reliable vehicle overall very pleased with it.

Ive had 3 Discos (200/300. Td5) and 4 FL1 and 3 FL2 - no breakdowns

Unexpected repairs:
Fuel pump and clutch slave on the 200TDI at 60+K miles
Radiator & Rear diff pinion oil seal on the TD5 at 65+K miles
IRD unit on first FL1 (under warranty)
Numerous HB3 headlight bulbs on SD4 FL2

Out of interest I looked them up:
My first Disco (200TDI, 1991) last passed its MOT in 2011 with 217K miles
300TDI Disco presumed scrapped
Disco TD5 X363LOB (2000) still going with 191K miles - no corrosion ever mentioned at MOTs - I had waxoyled all the underbody and chassis (inside and out) - I really wish I still had that car.
First FL1 (1998) got to 112Kmiles in 2014
I dont have a record of the reg plates for the next two FL1s
Last FL1 (2005) still going with 96K miles - failed a couple of MOTs due to brake pipes an suspension . Body/chassis OK
First FL2 (2007) still going with 115K miles - as above
2nd FL2 (2011) still going with 77K miles - no MOT issues

From my own experience I would regard the Disco 1 & 2 , Freelander as reliable vehicles.

But I have no experience of the newer generations of JLR vehicles and looking the cost probably never will. Jules

My Disco 2 needed quite a bit more that the freelander has to date.
On top of routine service items:
Fuel pump
Fuel pressure regulator x2
Rear airbags x4
Abs shuttle valve
Power steering box and pump
Exhaust manifolds x2 (warped as engine chipped)
Cylinder head (cracked)
Viscous fan
Clutch, dual mass flywheel, master and slave cylinders all x2.
Steering drag links.

And I'm sure there is more I've forgotten. At least I was able to do most of that diy otherwise the bill would have been eye-watering.

Waxoiled the chassis several times but it was still starting to corrode at the rear despite this.

Drove it from 33000 to 165000 miles. Absolutely loved it despite all the maintenance, like a big mecanno set, easy to work on.

So far, as I've commented on another thread recently all the Freelander has needed apart from routine service items is two tailgate switches and one intercooler hose in 3 1/2 years and 64000 miles. Happy with that😁 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Last edited by Bobupndown on 11th Aug 2021 5:59 pm. Edited 1 time in total

You could do a lot worse than a Freel2, like a Fiat 500 for example, as they are complete rubbish. Unfortunately my daughter insists on keeping her.  2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Owned my Freelander 1 for over 10 years. Bought it at 9 years old and around 100k miles. Paid £2600 for it, sold last year for €1500. Problems included leaky sunroof, changed clutch complete with dual mass flywheel, 2 sets of prop shaft bearings, and all window mechanism except rear door. Car never had the 1.5t builders trailer off the back (almost never), and took me to 8 different countries over the years.
Bought my Freelander 2 td4 about a year ago. Did the big 10 year service including timing belt etc. Still got to change the glow plugs, but that's about it.
Have had a jag x type estate that is close to 200k for over 12 years, and barring tyres, servicing and a few bushes and associated suspension parts, not much else......oh I forgot, the washer pump filter got blocked........
Also have a jag xkr soft top......only 3 years of ownership, but no issues there except MAF, which after a clean, has not thrown anymore error codes.
IMHO the JLR cars from 2000 (xkr) to Freelander 2 (2010), have been incredible value for money ( second hand buys ), quality motoring, with minor easily fixable issues ( except the leaky sunroof ), and reasonably priced parts. I am one happy 🐇. Not one of the cars has cost over 5.5 k to buy, all have had high miles when bought ( 100k +), and I have never broken down whilst travelling. All repairs have been performed at home with a reasonable set of tools, including JLR diagnostics.
I really do not know which car I will replace the Freelander 2 with when the time comes....

AJ918 wrote:

I had a 2014 GS 2.2 TD4 for 5 years and 80k miles and beside routine servicing and timing belt (I never do more than 70k on a timing belt) only replaced.

o/s front and o/s rear door lock actuator motors (not the complete actuator).
Main Battery at 78k and 7 years old.

Very reliable vehicle overall very pleased with it.

All,

Thanks for the replies.

It looks like I am not the only person that has a reliable FREEL2.

Take care

Paul


PS in Mikes follow up video on reliable cars he recommends a Volvo. Clearly he has never heard of the Premier Automotive Group under FORD. I realize that it no longer exists but it was there when my FREEL2 was new. I guess if I remove my Land Rover badging and replace it with Volvo then my LR2 will instantly become reliable. I can't call it an XC60 or XC90 or XC70 maybe an XC_LR. Now its the most off road capable and the most reliable XC (after applying the Volvo stickers)

OK, so my previous vehicle was a brand new 1997 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 with RR locker 5 speed. I owner it for 21 years until black ice a tree lined ditch and country driveway retired her. I really like my used 2008 LR2 but one thing for sure would have stopped me from buying her (bought her after a gut feeling and a test drive). If I had known how much proprietary electronics, CPUs and married items items were in it, i would have steered away. Now that I own her, I have taken the steps to acquire the software and ability to program, etc. all the electronics. I'll keep her until that day that she can't be repaired or the cost becomes too impractical to fix.

P_gill

The link to how to is https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic13544.ht...k+actuator

The part are available on aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId...ator+motor

Take your choice, the largest cost in door locks is the labour to remove and replace the whole unit, the motor source is the same whether OEM or after market. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Door+Lock+mot...nb_sb_noss my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

i don’t know where to start.
A complaint about a $80/year in parts… seems rather extreme when one considers we expect our vehicles to run 365 days a year in all weather. And don’t for a minute think the Toyota would be any cheaper.

I am happy for those of you who wish to save a few dollars and purchase knockoffs from Ali. For me, its not worth the aggravation, time or effort. Nor do I wish to contribute to that business model.

But right to the point of dependability. What’s there to complain about. I walk out to the LR2 in any all all weather, push the start button and go for a drive. And after all these years, still just an annual visit to the shop. I can’t agree. This is a very dependable vehicle and in fact quite cheap to keep on the road.

Should anyone be inclined to spend more on purchase and maintenance please do try an Audi, BMW, or MB. And compare the cost of ownership over the same period, with the same miles.

Different class of vehicle… wouldn’t an F150 cost the same??
Cheers! Guy Pensa
Cars with Personalities
Getting itchy. What's next?
2014 Land Rover HSE Lux (blend of practicality and aggressiveness)
2007 XKR (Jaguar Racing Green) (woo hoo!)
2004 XJR (Jaguar Racing Green) (deceased)
2002 S-Type R (British Racing Green, of course)
1951 Riley RMD (Black, time for that restoration)

Amongst loads of second hand Landies we had a 110 new in 1988 a diesel turbo. It did 84000 miles in first 20months with only routine servicing. Pulled large cattle trailers and did a milkround It managed to write off a Maestro van without much trouble to itself. We had a H reg 90 200tdi nothing fell apart, then a late k reg 90 that wife managed to roll over a hedge in deep snow which protected it no doubt cos when i rolled it over the roof and side by straps fastened to the tractor to get it upright it only had a cracked mirror. Just left for a couple of hours for the oil to get back to where it should be and it drove away with no problems. It had only service items in 4 years then the next 90 was filled by accident with petrol and it never seemed to know and I kept topping up with diesel after every trip. Move on 2 or 3 vehicles we had a disco 1 and ran it until 124000 miles and only did service items , no new alernators, starter motors , gearboxes or whatever just plenty of new discs,pads and a good few calipers. Disco 2 was fine until it wrote off a new council Transit that decided to cross its path. Disco 3, 07 reg for 3.5 years, we did a new aux belt and tensioner cos the old one was rattling, 1 new egr valve (pain), gearbox pan and filter update, and the fiddling job of getting the rear tailgate open, usual discs,pads services but fitted new calipers cos they are cheap (even cheaper than a fiesta's are) and old ones were rusted up, never needed air bags or anything. We are maybe tempting fate here by typing about all the reliable landrovers we have had with no big upsets and now have a SD4 Freelander because my we like the look of them and it can still tow and it has a high seating arrangement. It does the going to sleep thing at roundabouts now and then but a good buzz down the motorway cures it. Sometimes think reading too much about Landrover unreliability makes you nervous about it and then start looking for faults that maybe aren,t there. But... this is a great site to be able to ask about how to do things that you are going to tackle yourself or organise getting the job done properly.