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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 882

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame
New Battery and a new B+ terminal

Freel2,

My daughter will be taking he LR2 to University in a few weeks so I installed a new battery and a new Positive terminal.


For the B+ terminal I used the Volvo part

I am not sure that LAND Rover will sell you this part separately







I tightened the 13 mm nuts to 17 newton meters (because that's what it took to remove them from the old terminal)

If you prefer 12.5 Ft * LBS or 150 inch * LBS






And I bought a new hold down







Here is the battery that I bought


Click image to enlarge



Thanks

Paul

Post #410496 21st Jul 2021 11:11 pm
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TXFireblade



Member Since: 30 Apr 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 43

United States 

I just bought exactly the same thing two days ago.

Post #410498 22nd Jul 2021 4:24 am
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Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Upside down behind the TV!
Posts: 1606

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

Why did you need to change the terminal and hold down? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Post #410508 22nd Jul 2021 9:57 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 882

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Bob,

I bought the hold down to use on my S80 because it doesn't have a long easily assessible bolt like the LR2.

But after reviewing the battery cable routing differences between the S80 and LR2 I noticed that the S80 red cable would rub on the long bolt.

So I installed the new bracket on my LR2.
(Full disclosure I also lost the O-ring and the aluminum spacer on my LR2 clamp some time in the past)



As for the B+ clamp.

I replaced the one on my LR2 because my S80 B+ clamp has significant corrosion (and its two years younger)

If the new Volvo clamp on the S80 has problems then I will switch to the LR2 style.

Corroded 2010 Volvo Clamp pictures
Warning this is not Land Rover content








Post #410526 22nd Jul 2021 4:28 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 882

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

TXFireblade wrote:
I just bought exactly the same thing two days ago.


TX,

How have you been sir?

I wasn't sure if you still had your LR2.

I did get stranded in Dallas a few weeks back on a layover. My flight from Nashville was late and I missed the connection. The airline did find another plane for me but they sent me to San Francisco instead of San Jose. (about 60 miles out of the way)


Back to the topic. Costco had the best price and Interstate seems to make a good battery. I replace my LR2 batter every 4 years and the warranty is 3 years. I do wonder now that I unplugged and bypassed the Sirius Satellite if my LR2 battery will last longer than 4 years. (I think the module was occasionally draining my battery)

Other than the battery how is you LR2 doing?

Take care

Paul

Post #410529 22nd Jul 2021 4:43 pm
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TXFireblade



Member Since: 30 Apr 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 43

United States 

The Landy is still trucking along, thanks for asking I've got a fairly long (650 miles each way) road trip coming up and since the battery was 5 years old I thought I'd see if it need to be replaced. It started the car OK every time but I bought a simple battery/starter/alternator tester and it said the battery only had 36% capacity left even after fully charging it. It was also not charging beyond about 13.2 volts so I may have an alternator issue but it's hard to tell with the adaptive charging setup on these cars. It seems to be charging better now with the new battery but at a lower voltage than I would have expected. Do you know what your charging voltage is?

Post #410541 22nd Jul 2021 8:37 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 882

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

TX,

Depending on the outside temperature the LR2 will vary the voltage for a fully charged battery

Assuming that your CCF is setup for a Wet cell the FLOAT Voltage will be

14.3 Volts at the freezing point of water 32 F

12.5 Volts at 120 F


The Voltage that you are seeing with the battery fully charged and the Alternator just maintaining the State of Charhge makes sense if the temperature is between 75 F and 95 F

If it hotter than that range the Voltage should be lower

If its colder then the voltage should be higher

Click image to enlarge


I will check mine and take a picture for you

Glad to hear that your LR2 is doing well

Take care

Paul

Post #410547 22nd Jul 2021 10:05 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 882

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Here is my Voltage at Idle

90F

AC is on (Fans at radiator on highest setting)

Radio is on

Headlights are on






If I turn everything off the Voltage will be higher about 14.1 Volts



Let me know if this helps


Thanks

Paul

Post #410550 22nd Jul 2021 10:37 pm
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TXFireblade



Member Since: 30 Apr 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 43

United States 

Thanks Paul. Looks like my alternator is not putting out full charge. Any suggestions for a good replacement brand?

Post #410553 22nd Jul 2021 11:28 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 882

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

The BOSCH remanufactured unit on my S80 3.2 works really well.

But it is expensive

At RockAuto it is showing $244

I would be tempted to get the AC Delco for $128 (but it is 150 Amp not 180 Amp)


For my LR2 I replaced the OAP clutched pulley on the Alternator but I haven't replaced the brushes.


Rebuilding your alternator is another option.


Note: the OAP (clutched pulley) cost a little over $100


Good luck

Paul

Post #410554 23rd Jul 2021 12:02 am
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TXFireblade



Member Since: 30 Apr 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 43

United States 

Thanks Paul. I ordered the Bosch 180A unit. When you changed the unit on your Volvo, did the Bosch alternator come with the pulley? The Image from Rock Auto shows it fitted.

Post #410555 23rd Jul 2021 12:19 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 882

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

The previous owner bought it.

So it came with the car.

If the picture on Rock Auto doesn’t match what you get you should return it.


I think that you have removed the intake manifold to replace the Thermostat
Assuming yes then the Alternator is pretty straight forward to remove with the Manifold removed.

The only hard part is on reassembly is getting the Roll Pins to seat.


You can see the roll pins in the video at 10:30

The Volvo mechanic who made the video uses a tool to press the roll pins into the block

Note: he calls them dowel pins but I think the correct name is roll pins



Good luck

Paul

Post #410556 23rd Jul 2021 12:48 am
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TXFireblade



Member Since: 30 Apr 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 43

United States 

I've had the intake off before so no problem there and the alternator is easy if you know the trick with the roll pins. I haven't done the thermostat yet so considering doing that while I have the manifold off. Where did you buy your manifold gaskets from?

Post #410557 23rd Jul 2021 12:59 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 882

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

For the intake manifold gaskets I use

LR001454 made by Victor Reinz you will need 6 but they only cost $2.35 each

https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/LR001454-MFG17-V8246.aspx

Note: I would need to check the shelf but I suspect that I have at least 12 just waiting there for me.


Parts list for a Thermostat change
(This is what I replace at the same time)

LR006071 or 31355151 - Thermostat (I recommend a VOLVO or LAND ROVER part only)

LR001491 - Screw for Thermostat (Qty 4) optional the old screw can be used

LR001442 or 30713530 - Coolant Hose for heat exchanger

LR001505 or 31109235 - O-Ring for heat exchanger hose

LR000491 - Bolt for Heat exchanger hose optional the old screw can be used

LR019341 - engine to expansion tank coolant hose (This line will leak and drip coolant on you new alternator, I highly recommend replacing this part)

LR001454 - intake manifold gasket Qty 6 needed (the link shown above)



Good luck


Paul


PS for the roll pins do you use the technique shown in the video or do you have an alternate reccomendation?

Post #410559 23rd Jul 2021 2:03 am
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TXFireblade



Member Since: 30 Apr 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 43

United States 

That's just what I needed. For the roll pins I used the same technique as the video except I found a drill bit that worked just fine.

Thanks again for all the help.

Post #410560 23rd Jul 2021 4:15 am
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