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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Our FreeDeux's got a bad head... Cylinder Head
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Emma Scully



Member Since: 31 Aug 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2007 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Sorry Jules,

I forgot to say that you are absolutely correct there are two positions. If I'd satrted with the engine in the correct position I would have had the car back on the road almost two years ago....

Much as I am motivated to have freedeux alive again she is only one of the projects I have. On the plus side, my French registered baby Mercedes sailed though its two yearly Controle Technique today yay! Well I did spend a few days sorting out headlights, rear wiper, tailgate motor, stalk, Steering wheel position sensor and previously a new ac compressor. I still have a couple of things to sort out but at least I have a legal car now!

Although, in the spirit of full disclosure... I did have to drag it out of the mud with the digger before getting to the test centre, and I did have to give it two hot jet washes to clear the mud...


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Ex 2009 Jaguar XF 3.0
2011 Jaguar XF 3.0
2007 LR2 i6 3.2 HSE
1980 Moto Guzzi 850 T3 California

Post #402722 15th Jan 2021 12:50 am
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Emma Scully



Member Since: 31 Aug 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2007 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

p_gill wrote:
Emma,

That's an awesome finding

Cylinder 3 and 4 should be at top dead center.

Not cylinder 2 and 5.

You are getting closer

Don't give up

Thanks

Paul


Cheers Paul,

I can imagine that many of you think that was a rookie mistake, and let's be honest I could have trashed the engine at the same time. on the plus side, stripping down a straight six is a skill I am proud of and I have learned a lot! Not only that but I really have aquired a fine set of tools Thumbs Up in the process.

Towards the end of last year, (still only a couple of weeks ago but already seems an age...) i had a go at sorting out, 'Auntie Emma's Workshop' it's a cross between grandad's collection of lump hammers and and addicts need to collect things... it's a work in progress, like everything else and since then I have aquired some more peg board clips but it's a start!



Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



The thing that I really, really, really want is a 2 post car lift...

Exx 2009 Jaguar XF 3.0
2011 Jaguar XF 3.0
2007 LR2 i6 3.2 HSE
1980 Moto Guzzi 850 T3 California

Post #402762 15th Jan 2021 4:58 pm
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Emma Scully



Member Since: 31 Aug 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2007 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

I should maybe mention that freeDeux is next door and maybe, one day I will put in a door, instead of stepping outside.
Ex 2009 Jaguar XF 3.0
2011 Jaguar XF 3.0
2007 LR2 i6 3.2 HSE
1980 Moto Guzzi 850 T3 California

Post #402763 15th Jan 2021 5:25 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1218

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Emma Scully wrote:


I can imagine that many of you think that was a rookie mistake,


Emma,

The difference between a rookie and an expert is only found by the experience you are getting on your LR2.

You are well on your way to becoming an expert.

And looking at that field that your Mercedes is parked in you actually need a SUV.



The Land Rover SI6 is a complicated engine and it makes for a steep learning curve.

I did my first Head Gasket on a Diesel VW (Mechanical Pump)

And I've done several head gaskets since on other engines.

I won't tell you the year that I did that first head gasket because I am an expert at convincing myself that I am not that old.


Keep at it you are almost there

Take care

Paul

Post #402768 15th Jan 2021 6:42 pm
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Emma Scully



Member Since: 31 Aug 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2007 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Awwww thank you Paul, I can't tell you how helpful support is like that. I always knew that this work would be a challenge, not everyone/forum is as understanding of Land Rover and some are just downright anti JLR. It isn't just the advice and support that I have had from here but, Phil from JLR connecting through SDD, when I couldn't start the car and Fireblade really went above and beyond getting me a replacement head from the USA sent out to me.

Living in a farmhouse, surounded on all sides by fields is all very idylic but there are times when only a 4x4 or a tractor will do! Whistle


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Hope to get back to this Smile





E xx 2009 Jaguar XF 3.0
2011 Jaguar XF 3.0
2007 LR2 i6 3.2 HSE
1980 Moto Guzzi 850 T3 California

Post #402837 17th Jan 2021 3:37 pm
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Emma Scully



Member Since: 31 Aug 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2007 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Click image to enlarge


Hello lovely people, hope you are all safe and well?

I have a question.... Shocked Smile

I have checked the valve tappet clearances on the exhaust side, (cylinder head on bench) and they all seem to be less than they were. The head has been skimmed but that shouldn't affect the valve clearance on an OHC? i even tried the cam off the other head and the result was the same. I have ordered a new set of tappets from Britcar but worried that I have made another mistake? if anything, the gaps should be bigger as the tops of the valve stems were machined/polished.

The clearance is 0.45mm plus or minus 0.05mm

These tappets aren't adjustable, (no shims) and need to be replaced, JLR have about 50 different sizes. They are the same tappets across the range of Landrover, (3.0L V6, 3.2L L6, 4.2L, 4.4L and 5.0L VCool.
The original tappets ranged from 0.3415mm, 3.430mm, most at 3.445mm, 3.460, 3.475 and 3.490.

I made the measurement by using two new tappets (thinnest in the range) to get a baseline. The angled feeler gauge is new and I used the special cam locking tool and ensured that the cam lobe was not in contact with the tappet. The values seem to be lower across the range.




Click image to enlarge

I am using the original head and valve cover, original camshafts and most of the original valve stems and springs.
Click image to enlarge



Struggling to understand why the clearance should now be less. As mentioned, I have purchased a new set but would like to understand why it's changed? Some are as low as 3.211 with many at 3.389.


Any opinions would be gratefully received.

Emma xx 2009 Jaguar XF 3.0
2011 Jaguar XF 3.0
2007 LR2 i6 3.2 HSE
1980 Moto Guzzi 850 T3 California

Post #404262 19th Feb 2021 10:42 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1218

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Emma,

Did the machine shop resurface the valve seats?

This is the easiest way to reduce the clearance.



When measuring the clearance make sure that the pointed part of the cam is opposite the valve stem.


Looking to Volvo for parts the Tappets are available

from 2.965 mm

to 3.640 mm

Available increments are 0.015 mm

https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2010-volvo-s8...components

Good luck

Paul

Post #404280 19th Feb 2021 6:57 pm
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Emma Scully



Member Since: 31 Aug 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2007 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Hi Paul,

Hope you're all safe and well across the pond!

thank you for your advice, the second two points are easier to answer, yes the cam lobes were vertical on the tappets that were being measured, I bought two new tappets, 2.950, to get a baseline. Initially, I started checking the wear on each tappet against their original value, but a combination of my poor, close-up, eyesight and a mechanical micrometer meant that I could easily be a few thousands of a mm out. I did consider buying a digital micrometer but it was less expensive to just buy a new set of tappets. I created a simple Excel spreadsheet to record the values. I used the angled feeler gauge blades rather than the straight bladed ones, as the tappets are recessed in the head. All but one needed two blades and I recorded these, so that I could go back and check them again. I also used the, 'spare cam' that I got from the USA and the measurements were pretty much the same. This also gave me a confirmation that the original cam hadn't been bent by the overheating? If that sounds a bit stupid apologies Embarassed

Thank you for the link to the Volvo followers, I have to say though that they are much cheaper from Britcar in the UK, less than the discounted Volvo price you have, which makes a pleasant change! Smile



Click image to enlarge


What used to a be a quick and simple thing was to have them delivered, by Britcar, to France... Goodness me that's changed! In addition to the significant delays, (guess Brexit isn't guilty in all that), the paperwork is just mind-numbing, plus everyone want a slice of the action, so the shipping charges, and duty are worth as much as the items, (almost)... The other thing is that I really do have to be available because the person who delivers will need to collect some of these additional charges, not forgetting another €21 for doing so... The icing on the cake is when you look at some of them and they were made in the Czech Republic...

Which comes to the big question!
Quote:
Did the machine shop resurface the valve seats


The answer Paul, is yes, they did. I guess the bit I can't answer is, 'by how much'? Looking back, the valves seats were worn and pitted, which is why I took the whole thing back. So this would make the valve stems effectively, a little shorter and the values are '000' of a millimetre. So what looks like a big number is still within the accepted variance of plus or minus 0.05mm?

It does give an answer though, but considering the stupid mistake I made previously, not once but three times... I am desperate not to make another one. I feel that after two years I have reached make or break... I can't keep throwing money away each time on head bolts, timing/cam bolts, head gaskets and the various seals and other gaskets needed for each rebuild.

The hood cable was looking sorry for itself and I decided to replace this too, especially as the radiators and matrix had been removed. I couldn't find anything specific to the LR2/Freelander 2. The workshop manual doesn't describe the cable change, just focusses on the latch mechanism. I looked at some of the information on Range Rovers and other Landy's but the LR2 is different. Getting the mechanism and the engine bay cable isn't a problem it was getting a decent access to the bulkhead behind the dash. This not made any easier because the seat wasn't back as far as it could be and of course the battery is not on the vehicle... In the end I undid the driver's knee airbag panel, (LHD car), which allowed me to feed the cable, (and outer shroud) up through the lower dash and then through the bulkhead. I used silicon plumbing grease to coat the grommet and it went in easily. I still have to thread the cable around the side and front of the car but this all seems accessible!

As the front of the car is open I removed the front fuel pipe, which fits into the fuel rail. Putting the head back on is made a bit harder because it has to thread over this pipe. Without the pipe, I can easily fit the exhaust manifold prior to fitting and just lower the assembled unit. It really is a pain, leaning over the front of the raised car to get access to the manifold and fit the 14 bolts... That though, may be an anatomical problem that most of you don't have Laughing Rolling Eyes Rolling with laughter I did have to remove the oil filter and pump? to get access to the fuel pipes attachment to the engine but this was easy because everything is open.

Will update when the bits get here in a week or so...

Stay safe you lovely people

Auntie Emma x 2009 Jaguar XF 3.0
2011 Jaguar XF 3.0
2007 LR2 i6 3.2 HSE
1980 Moto Guzzi 850 T3 California

Post #404298 20th Feb 2021 1:49 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1218

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Emma ,

You are well on your way.

Did you remove the oil filter prior to removing the filter housing?

If not the filter housing should be full of oil unless the check valve has failed.

This link explains what I am talking about

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/v...mp;t=92091


Thanks for the update

Take care

Paul

Post #404306 20th Feb 2021 8:11 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1218

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Emma,

I don't know if you already have a copy of this.

Just in case you don't

It's a good guide for what you have in front of you.

Start with page 45 to 77 (the first 45 pages are about oil consumption diagnosis and taking the engine apart)


https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...282%29.pdf


Take care

Paul

Post #404484 25th Feb 2021 7:07 am
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Emma Scully



Member Since: 31 Aug 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2007 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Dear Paul,

thank you so much for the pdf file, just had a quick read through it, very helpful Very Happy

I have my fingers crossed that the tappets and new pipe will arrive today, but if not it will be Monday.

Emma xx

I also note that my reply to your post, on the filter being full of oil isn't there? I must have done something wrong in posting?

Anyway, I had previously changed the oil filter, and therefore there wasn't much oil in it. Although when I took it off it did drip for a while. It was a useful exercise, as it helped to remove a little bit more old oil, although the car had only done a few hundred miles since the last oil change.

Raining here today but it is getting a bit warmer and that will help to give me fewer reasons not to finish this project! Thumbs Up


Cheers x 2009 Jaguar XF 3.0
2011 Jaguar XF 3.0
2007 LR2 i6 3.2 HSE
1980 Moto Guzzi 850 T3 California

Post #404553 26th Feb 2021 1:45 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1218

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Emma,

I wasn't sure if you had a copy of the PDF, I am happy to hear that it is useful.


Your tenacity is impressive.



As for the Anti Drain Vale in the oil filter housing, its easy enough to check if you remove the Oil filter.

You want to confirm that the Black rubber disc is still attached. (the red arrow point at the finger that hold the bracket to the housing)



Just something to check because its easy to do so with everything disassembled.

Keep us update on your progress.

Thanks

Paul

Post #404564 26th Feb 2021 6:07 pm
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Emma Scully



Member Since: 31 Aug 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2007 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Lovely,
great advice, Bow down thank you Paul. I have copied the image and will check.

Yes I'd be delighted to keep you and anybody else who would be interested.
The package didn't arrive today so now it will be Monday.

Have a lovely weekend.
Ex 2009 Jaguar XF 3.0
2011 Jaguar XF 3.0
2007 LR2 i6 3.2 HSE
1980 Moto Guzzi 850 T3 California

Post #404565 26th Feb 2021 6:12 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1218

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Emma Scully wrote:
Hi Jules,
This is what it should be



This is what I had


Click image to enlarge


Both can be achieved with the crankshaft locking tool in place


Click image to enlarge




Emma x



Emma,

It looks like the tool that you have wasn't made correctly.

It should only fit in one of those positions.

The good news is that there are only two possibilities and you've already tired the other one.


The locking tool should have an offset as shown by the green line in this picture

The green line are very thin and difficult to see but thicker lines would make it harder to see the offset.

Hopefully this make sense.




Take care

Paul

Post #404566 26th Feb 2021 6:16 pm
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Emma Scully



Member Since: 31 Aug 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2007 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Hi Paul, thank you. Do you think it could be that the special tools I have are for the same engine but in the Volvo?

I'll take a good look at mine and compare it to your.
Smile As you say, there are only two possibilities and I have done the wrong one!
Ex 2009 Jaguar XF 3.0
2011 Jaguar XF 3.0
2007 LR2 i6 3.2 HSE
1980 Moto Guzzi 850 T3 California

Post #404567 26th Feb 2021 6:21 pm
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