My driver's door has taken a hit and needs to be replaced. All the electrics and the window are OK and need to be transferred to the replacement door.

Youtube videos deal with the door card, speaker, window regulator and door lock but not replacing the window itself. I'm assuming the glass at it's widest point is narrow enough to be pulled up and out from the frame?

Does anyone have experience of this? Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS

Once the window is released from its catches, it can be extracted by tilting it a bit out of the frame.
In fact the glass can be extracted without dismantling anything but that exterior outer waist seal.

Thank you Alex  Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS

All hail Alex the font of so much knowledge.  Common sense isn't very common.
_______________________________
2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

Since you will have the door apart while at it shove some acoustic insulation in the door. You will appreciate a quieter car. This is a good & easy place to do.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33026.html

Click image to enlarge

axle wrote:

All hail Alex the font of so much knowledge.

Thanks for the tip - a long and interesting topic. As I have a home studio with acoustic treatment on the walls I can vouch for it's benefits. Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS

3landertwo wrote:

axle wrote:

All hail Alex the font of so much knowledge.

..... well a small part of the whole pool of knowledge here, which is fantastic .....

Does anyone have experience of getting the glass out without this LR tool? I'd rather not have to fork out another £30 + postage for a one-off job.
 Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS

Take out that exterior outer waist seal, look inside the space created at the glass retaining system and all will become clear.
For sure you will be able to improvise something, once you've get the picture...

I know the system taught you to prepare ahead and have all things at your disposal since the beginning, but try to live dangerously for a change and try to solve things only with what you have at hand in that moment...

Ha. Yes, you understand. I'm a firm believer in the adage, 'Fail to prepare, prepare to fail'. I'm retired now but used to organise conferences and training for a national company and know the devil's in the detail. What ever can go wrong probably will; so have contingencies in place

My local bodyshop is going to replace the buckled door and front wing in August and once they're removed will see if the A post has been damaged (one hinge bolt has sheared-off). The wing looks a doddle to take off but they have said to leave everything as it is so they can see how it fits- but I keep looking at it and thinking, ' I could do that bit' to keep the costs down. I don't think they have experience of Freelanders and the innards of the door and it's handles look daunting (Haynes Manual) - not helped by a Youtube vid of a bloke removing the door lock and breaking it.

So I'm vacillating; fearful of getting things halfway, breaking stuff and having a vehicle that's undriveable (the battery has to be disconnected whilst removing the electrics and I'm assuming it should only be reconnected when everything's back in place - which would mean ' leave it to the body shop'. Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS

Don't worry about car remaining undriveable.
It will work even without the door in place. Just some errors stored which can be cleared later and a lot of beeping during driving.

A few months ago I went out for one of the few trips this year. Someone opened their car door as I was driving past. The bonnet was dented, headlight slightly damaged & pushed in & replaced, quarter panel was replaced, A column was slightly dented, mirror replaced, front door & rear doors slightly dented. The entire side of the car was repainted, bonnet & the front bumper.

All fixed, the painters did a good masking job. There were a few minor inclusions in the paint from dust but I couldn't be bothered as the car will get a new batch of scratches from the bush. The roof rails, window wind shields had to come off & the door bumper strips, which then were replaced.

Don't worry about electrics. I've had the door trim panels off while doing acoustic insulation a few times & unplugged the two electric plugges, never had any issues. Also I have pulled out the passenger fuse box to have a look at it. I disconnected the battery first. The only thing needed fixing was resetting the clock after I had reconnected the half dozen plugs. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Thanks guys. I appreciate your encouragement. As you can see, it's pretty sickening. I turned onto a bollard that I couldn't see and wasn't picked up (obviously) by front or rear sensors. I removed the trims and arch liner.


 Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS

Help!! I'm stuck. I can't shift the window regulator or the glass. I've undone all the bolts and nuts on the regulator and disconnected all electrics but the window is up and the regulator doesn't want to budge.

I have removed the outer window waist rubber - there appears to be a yellow catch and a white one. I've tried sliding a spatula down the outside as I've read these catches each have a button to push free - but no success.

 Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS