HI all, I am having some problems with my FL2, after a long period on the motorway (2hrs or more) the vehicle drops in to low power mode, the engine warning light flickers on and I lose throttle response.

I have checked in no particular order:

-Turbo solenoid, checked linkage, checked arm on turbo, greased linkage, bench tested solenoid.
-Throttle body, had new gears as old were worn but still had teeth. Had a lot of oil in throttle body so cleaned that out as well.
-Checked intercooler piping, no obvious splits, have checked all hoses off vehicle.
-Replaced fuel filter with brand new item. Air filter replaced 10k ago.

It throws a fault code related to the turbo, P0238 and also another related to the intake flap. The strangest thing is that if I pull over, reset the faults it will drive fine for another couple of hours. It also seems to come about when I am pulling up a hill, after spending time on a marginal throttle opening. I observe 40mpg average before it happens, and 30mpg after reset.

I am going to check the throttle pedal next, as I think there may be an issue with the potentiometer. But if anyone has any other suggestions I would gladly hear?

Help!

Hi

Code P0238 is normally triggered when the turbo boost sensor circuit shorts to power or opens completely, causing the signal to the ECM to go way over, or below voltage specifications. The most common failure is the boost sensor shorted internally, or the harness has been shorted.

I did notice a funny black ball in the wiring from the turbo actuator, is that an indication that the car has been modified? Is there anyway of testing the circuit at all?

Well I replaced the boost sensor, but she still shat herself on the M3 last week while towing. Lucky there was traffic so I could slow, switch off and reset.

Are there any more details on the circuit short?

My next course of action is to start looking at the EGR side, even though its blanked it could be throwing a fault.

I've started saving for a new motor

Just to add some information that maybe useful to others, I have now been as far as the EGR valve and cooler, and removed both in a few hours. I couldn't find anything useful about bolt locations, order to remove etc before undertaking the job, but here's a brief description which might help.

You need to remove the following in this order:

-Engine top cover
-Inlet air pipe
-Fuel Rail
-EGR pipe to throttle body (you can just get a ratchet on the allen bolts)
-Cam cover/air breather (black plastic - leaks alot)
-Cam position sensor
-Remove undertray, solid air line to intercooler, and 90degree hose off turbo outlet.
-Intake line bolted to cambelt cover and held onto turbo inlet.

You then need to undo the three top on bolts on the EGR valve, remove both coolant lines and the bolted pipe from the exhaust. There is one more bolt holding the EGR assembly on, it is a socket cap bolt, and you just need to loosen this. I managed all of this leant over the engine bay, or sat on bodywork.

Once the EGR valve is off, remove the smaller torx bolts holding the black plastic cover on and look for obvious faults, in my case it was all well and the valve moved by hand. Good and bad in my case, I am no nearer solving the issue with my car, but nice to know all is well.

All hoses checked for splits before refit. I did also notice that the connector to the cam sensor was full of oil that had leaked down from my inlet hose. So I cleaned this with solvent and refitted the inlet hose with a small amount of silicone to seal the joint.

Maybe this is all it was? Who knows, I'm still saving

rusty_wingnut wrote:

HI all, I am having some problems with my FL2, after a long period on the motorway (2hrs or more) the vehicle drops in to low power mode, the engine warning light flickers on and I lose throttle response.

I have checked in no particular order:

-Turbo solenoid, checked linkage, checked arm on turbo, greased linkage, bench tested solenoid.
-Throttle body, had new gears as old were worn but still had teeth. Had a lot of oil in throttle body so cleaned that out as well.
-Checked intercooler piping, no obvious splits, have checked all hoses off vehicle.
-Replaced fuel filter with brand new item. Air filter replaced 10k ago.

It throws a fault code related to the turbo, P0238 and also another related to the intake flap. The strangest thing is that if I pull over, reset the faults it will drive fine for another couple of hours. It also seems to come about when I am pulling up a hill, after spending time on a marginal throttle opening. I observe 40mpg average before it happens, and 30mpg after reset.

I am going to check the throttle pedal next, as I think there may be an issue with the potentiometer. But if anyone has any other suggestions I would gladly hear?

Help!

hi rusty,
i had the same faults on mine 09 auto 145,000mls , i carried out the usual checks , turbo pipe leaks ,intercooler, throtle control valve , sticking actuator arm , faulty actuator? taken off and tested at turbo refurbers all ok , i bit the bullet and took the turbo off and got it tested, found to be sticking turbo ,carboned up enough to throw an intermittent fault, pig of a job to do but your half way there having taken the egr valve off, refurb turbo ,seals,bolts , plasters, total cost of job £300, no problems since

Cheers for the input Spaniel man, It is something that crossed my mind, when I had the actuator off I noticed a slight sticking in the arm, but it was minimal. I have found someone to plug it in, and provide me the full 9 (?) digit error code.

In case anybody gives a **** I had it plugged in, at a main stealer. The chap came back with an electrical fault on the throttle body, an open circuit. No other issues were found so I ordered a new throttle body and fitted it. Next thing the hesitation/stuttering fault as noted on the Tech forum has appeared. New throttle pedal ordered, I'll change it tonight.

Thing is in the back of my mind I have nearly always experienced the warning light coming on when asking for a bit more throttle, although on some occasions it has just come on at a consistent throttle position. So lets see if changing the throttle pedal cures the hesitation issue.

Anyways I am collecting my new (to me) 1995 defender tomorrow, so at least we will have one reliable vehicle in the house

Well throttle pedal has now been changed, it's a really simple job taking around ten minutes. Useful if you move the seat fully backwards to gain space.

The hesitation has gone, I can still hear a little turbo flutter though, albeit very minimal. I can't remember if it's normal or not, but will now investigate the turbo controller further than I have done. I previously removed it and bench tested it, and it moved with ease. Is there a solution for cleaning the turbo in situ?

In other news the new Defender is great, bit tatty round the edges but drives perfectly.

OK the stuttering fault is still there, and I think it is a wiring fault rather than component. Reason being when I changed the throttle body the stuttering fault appeared, I am assuming I knocked or nudged part of the loom that is broken.

SO does anyone have a wiring diagram for the wires to the throttle body?

Sorry rusty, can’t help you there.
Ten out of ten for perseverance in both trying different things and posting up here without any acknowledgement.
I’m sure some of us give a ****, but just unsure how to help.

Last edited by Kage on 12th Nov 2020 10:56 pm. Edited 1 time in total

^^^^^^^ The throttle body is never a permanent cure , whatever parts you fit the problem will return as the outside temperature increases to around 15 to 18 deg C

Rusty - there is a full wiring diagram linked to a tread above your message.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic2943.html MY13 HSE Lux Santorini Black
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Fair play chaps for the replies, I've never been beaten by a car before, this thing is testing me though!

I've not looked into this any further at the moment, but will report back when I delve into the loom.