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Home > United Kingdom > Absolutely gutted, wheel well swimming in water
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MotionInc



Member Since: 17 Jun 2019
Location: North America
Posts: 1278

Canada 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Where you get a chance without rain, also check the curve sides of the lamp as well because I think that's where the slight bow out of the gasket (vs straight) will avoid water intrusion as the recess is curved and the gasket is straight on the sides. To follow my overthinking logic/illogic here, Cool Razz , a slight curve inward of the gasket on the sides should also work just as well......... Thumbs Up

Post #382881 17th Dec 2019 11:20 pm
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TooBlue



Member Since: 30 Oct 2019
Location: Midlands
Posts: 261

United Kingdom 

I replaced my high brake light last weekend as water was getting into the actual light, but not the car.

The new light came with a bulb, which was good as the old bulb was very black which must have reduced it's visibility.

Why didn't Land Rover use LED's, as it does not make sense to have nice LED rear light clusters on my 2013 FL2, but a normal filament bulb for the brake light?

Even my 2006 Mercedes has an LED brake light in the boot lid, but it is a common part to fail, either due to corrosion or mechanical damage.

Post #382883 18th Dec 2019 12:24 am
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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4336

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

Jack frost wrote:
The high level brake light is a nightmare as it always leaks, your best course of action is to drill a 1/2 hole through the spare wheel space Rolling with laughter


This is not good advice. In my experience a 1/4 hole is perfectly adequate. I have done this on several cars including two Renaults and a VW Golf over the years and it fixed the problem. Never had to do it on any of our FL2s though. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Post #382888 18th Dec 2019 10:21 am
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SakoQuad



Member Since: 15 Jun 2013
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 314

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Santorini Black

Well the B&Q draught strip seems to have done the job - for the moment anyway, time will tellif it's a decent solution to the problem.

Fitting it was a bit fiddly as I needed to snip a triangle out of the inside edge at each corner point to enable it to "curve" or "turn" around the corner without bunching up, or without the stuff getting stuck everywhere as the snipping was done best without the backing strip and I am cack handed!

The rubber strip is a fraction thicker than the original foam gasket and its "E" shaped cross section provides a triple contact point with the car body. The light clicked back into place without any undue pressure being needed so I think the plastic retaining clips shouldn't be under any excessive pressure.

I can't find the post that suggested draught proofing strip (originally from Lidl's I believe) as I would have liked to thank and acknowledge the poster, Thanks anyway to that member for the suggestion - very helpful!

Post #383367 28th Dec 2019 5:04 pm
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Chuckalicious



Member Since: 23 May 2014
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 1698

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Santorini Black

In case anyone else comes across this, it's also worth checking that the washer nozzle is connected properly. I had water inside the car and thankfully because I had screen wash in and not plain water I could smell it was the screenwash. Turned out the nozzle wasn't connected properly and wash was leaking in every time I used the wash at the back.

The gasket also leaked Laughing Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Post #383417 29th Dec 2019 10:56 pm
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