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Soul Fan



Member Since: 23 Dec 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 107

England 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Havana

Hi there, just pull a bit more. The motor's make contact with the foil ,no solder,pressure is exerted on them via the housing.

Thumbs Up Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )

Post #295875 9th Apr 2016 5:15 am
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locknut



Member Since: 28 Mar 2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 2

Excellent! All I need now is the motivation to pull apart the door again Whistle

Post #295882 9th Apr 2016 8:51 am
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kris-p



Member Since: 12 Nov 2015
Location: VIC
Posts: 120

Australia 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Fuji White

Just did mine, driver's door lock didn't work. Personally, I found this guide VERY helpful http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic101872.html
Especially for the removing the door handle part (as you can't open this side with a key blade).

One thing I had to do after the completion was window reset, because driver's window didn't work on the one-touch open/close, and also I couldn't close the window using fob key (by holding the button for 3 seconds - all windows opened/closed but driver's window). After the window reset all works fine.


But I was wondering: On my car, which is SE variant, when I took the door card off, there are two white connectors at the top, one was connected but the other one was not and there was no plug to connect to. Do you know what are those connectors for?
https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...TARE-1.JPG

EDIT: when I took the DC motor from the latch apart, one of the carbons was broken in pieces, so I had to replace it.

Post #298884 17th May 2016 10:32 pm
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Missing Link



Member Since: 25 Aug 2010
Location: Essex
Posts: 138

England 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Zermatt Silver
Central locking problem

About to start mine, the CL cannot pull/push the lock.

Only 4 years old so hope it's not the motor itself. Took the door skin off to have a look and get a feel for the job and with the internal handle disconnected the cable is harder to move than it should be and feels a little noisy behind the lock itself so I don't think it's the cable in its sleeve. The detent seems to be too strong for the servo.

Is there a TSB covering the locks? Prog rock is cool! Smile
2012 XS SD4 Indus Silver

Post #299258 23rd May 2016 12:41 pm
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EXPENCELANDER



Member Since: 17 Jan 2010
Location: Cheshire Plains around Cheadle
Posts: 152

England 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Congratulations to cata26bcn for the 1st class posts on this problem and to all those who contributed with further solutions.
Brilliant.

I sprayed Silicon oil into mine a couple of times and after 2 weeks of the fluid seeping around the components I have a fully working remote lock. I was dubious about it working especially after a few days of nothing doing, I gave up but just over a week later Bingo it now works every time. Offset your Carbon emissions by boycotting Baked Beans and all Green Vegitables.

Post #304476 13th Aug 2016 6:30 pm
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kris-p



Member Since: 12 Nov 2015
Location: VIC
Posts: 120

Australia 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Fuji White

Hi all,
so I had to take the mechanism apart again, but this time, the carbon brushes fell apart. All motors that I have at home have a different kind of brushes. I managed to put them in the broken motor from the door latch and it works, but not 100%, so I thought best would be to buy the whole new motor to replace it. However, I couldn't find it anywhere.
Do you know where I could buy one of these? It is the bigger motor in the latch. I don't even know the specifications.
Thanks

Post #310432 6th Nov 2016 10:52 am
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snorkie



Member Since: 18 Feb 2011
Location: pretoria
Posts: 18

Rear Door Lock Faulty

Morning Guys
My nearside rear door fails to unlock when using the remote, although it can be unlocked manually from inside.
When sitting inside next to the door and trying to unlock it with the remote, I noticed that the Lock Lever (short top one) only MOVES halfway through the arc from what it should - just not enough to unlock the door.
Before tackling the dismantling of the door as described above, does anyone have any ideas why the lock lever only moves part of the way?
Much appreciated.
Regards Snorkie
Pretoria
South Africa

Post #311038 14th Nov 2016 6:04 am
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kris-p



Member Since: 12 Nov 2015
Location: VIC
Posts: 120

Australia 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Fuji White

Hi Snorkie,
I had exactly the same issue on mine, but I couldn't lock on first try. I had to press the button 2 or 3 times to make the door lock fully.
Have you tried, when sitting next to the door, pressing the fob key more than once to see if the door locks completely? If so, then the problem is caused by bad contact in the motor.

I am pretty sure your problem will be cured by cleaning the motor brushes, or by motor replacement.

Post #311039 14th Nov 2016 6:24 am
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Sawood



Member Since: 22 Dec 2018
Location: Coventry
Posts: 24

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HST Auto Stornoway Grey

Thank you all for one of the most informative Freelander 2 discussions I’ve come across. My HST has succumb to failed rear locks (only partial movement of the interior locking handle, intermittent locking/unlocking).

If I try the lubricant fix first, where am I lubriacating? Is WD40 on the cable all that can be done without removing the window and latch?

Has anyone successfully found a source for the motors in these units please? Keen to replace just the motors if possible. I see some Johnson motors on eBay but if there are two motors/sizes would be good to know which.

Alternatively, can anyone list the specs/dimensions of the motors they cleaned please?

I’d also like to ‘give back’ and not just ‘take’ - the lock and window were not operating at all on my nearside rear door but the part is a Ford Motor Company control module and this item on eBay (‘FORD MONDEO / S MAX / GALAXY REAR DOOR CONTROL MODULE 2007 - 2008 7G9T-14B534-BE’) was £12 and was plugged in and just worked. Unfortunately then found both rear actuators are sticky as above.

Thanks.

Post #362399 22nd Dec 2018 11:07 am
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westville



Member Since: 12 Jun 2015
Location: Dunston
Posts: 1096

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Fuji White

Check out this thread as well http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31350.html

These are the problem motors https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-3V-12V-5V-6V...3410071011 No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

Post #362415 22nd Dec 2018 1:43 pm
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Sawood



Member Since: 22 Dec 2018
Location: Coventry
Posts: 24

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HST Auto Stornoway Grey

Thank you, perfect. Also ordered the £23 pattern part for near-term fix and intend to refurb original unit with your recommended motor. Freelander 2 HST

Post #362439 23rd Dec 2018 12:29 am
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snappa



Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
Location: Watching C-beams near the Tanhauser Gate
Posts: 1633

Scotland 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Buckingham Blue

Following on from this has anyone managed to remove the actuator with the cables attached so you can detach them on the bench? If so how ? Cheers !

Post #372391 21st May 2019 8:42 pm
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RRBlue



Member Since: 06 Sep 2019
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4_e HSE Manual Zermatt Silver

Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread.

I replaced the off-side actuator this weekend as the existing lock was not locking with the remote control and I had an error message on the code reader.

This thread meant I could turn the job around in a couple of hours. I removed the external door handle assembly with the actuator and would recommend this. It was pretty straightforward (one torx bolt on the outside of the door under the plastic cap and a torx screw inside the door with a handy hole to poke the screwdriver through and it was off): I could not envisage changing the cables over in situ.

The only struggle I had was removing the external plastic cap covering the lock next to the door handle, but managed to manoeuvre it off with a thin blade palette knife, wrapped in masking tape to protect the paint, together with some foul language. Other than that plain sailing. Useful to have a plentiful supply of the plastic door card rivets - I have a sack of them as a seasoned Land Rover owner who dreads any task involving door cards.

On removing the actuator, I noted it had the signs of a second hand part. With the track record these things have, I would always go for new parts and I bought a couple from the internet for £40 each.

I now need to do the near-side rear actuator which will not unlock with the remote and anticipate it being much quicker!!

Thank you once again.

Post #381047 10th Nov 2019 7:37 pm
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