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Home > Australia & New Zealand > Trailer electrical - fit Aust standard 12 pin flat socket
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FooMan



Member Since: 30 Jan 2007
Location: Canberra
Posts: 31

Australia 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Sumatra Black

Hi Ra,

Sorry for late reply - email issues. Pin #5 in a flat 7 or 12 connector is for electric break signal wire. You would have to have an electric bake control unit fitted to the car - not standard fit in an FL2 - you would have to have one fitted for you by a auto electrican. The control/signal wire from that unit would feed to pin 5 and the onto the brake unit on the trailer.

Paul My First LR - FL2 HSE i6 Sumatra Black, Alpacca with Sunroof, Tints, HD Tow Pack

Post #35934 31st Jan 2009 11:32 pm
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philllip



Member Since: 08 Dec 2014
Location: Noosa, Queensland
Posts: 169

Australia 2014 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

So I' about to buy a Hayman Reese towbar and I'm so glad I stumbled on this post.

The plan was to by a genuine wiring kit from the UK. I assumed it would prevent camera/sensor woes. Right?

However, are you saying it is best to avoid this due to the #5 pin?

Would this not convert it?[url] https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Trailer-Adapte...nSOC[/url]

Any recommendations on a better wiring kit, please? Si4 - Faster, cleaner, quieter
--------------------------------
http://phillipohren.com

Post #347974 22nd Apr 2018 9:02 am
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bnicho



Member Since: 24 Jun 2016
Location: Victoria
Posts: 46

Australia 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Sumatra Black

I have a UK import 2007 GS. I fitted a Haymann Reece kit, but I did not use the loom that came with it. Instead I used the non-genuine Britpart wiring kit from the UK and rewired it to AU standards. Not difficult at all. I'm about to post up a separate thread for what I did for a 7 pin round large plug. Even with that kit my rear parking sensors still scream at me with a trailer on when I reverse. One day I'll get the CCF updated!

EDIT: This is how I wired mine up:

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31773.html Brett Nicholson
Greendale, Victoria
2007 Freelander 2 GS ex-UK now in Aus!
1973 Land Rover Series 3 88 ex-UK
1965 Morris Mini Traveller ex-UK
1966 Austin Mini Super-Deluxe ex-UK
1971 Morris Mini Moke
2013 Toyota Prado

Post #349678 17th May 2018 2:24 am
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Stuartc



Member Since: 01 Dec 2014
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 2187

Australia 2015 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Aintree Green

So without giving away too much future planning 🤔 and discovering both this thread and problem with my current JLR hitch electrics on a recent trip to a retailer😡
Thanks JLR, so in Australia you turn on your lights and the van brakes are activated Rolling Eyes.
JLR’s only embarrassment saving excuse is that the conversion plug supplied with the factory hitch kit possibly may not wire through the UK Light circuit to the AU brake circuit but I’m not going to risk it and try!



I’ll be fitting one of these which at least means the fridge and battery charging will work! Evil or Very Mad

So slack JLR!


 MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System (WIP)
InControl Apps
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (WIP)

Post #363614 13th Jan 2019 5:51 am
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Stuartc



Member Since: 01 Dec 2014
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 2187

Australia 2015 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Aintree Green

So I’ve now sorted my hitch, for now!
Since my previous post I decided to stick with the JLR socket setup as frankly it’s “top notch” compared to the Australian alternatives be it either 7 pin or 13 pin derivatives. The JLR plugs are both water and dust proof front and rear where as the Australian ones are neither. Granted we are a dry country but I’m not willing to use second best.
I also took this opportunity to semi flush fit the sockets and now looks far more integral with the rear bumper, far better than the original tack welded plate from JLRA.
Before



After


To get around the Pin 5 Issue of UK RH taillight to Australian Brake Signal issue I have removed the white/brown pin completely at the ECU plug so no matter what’s connected the brakes will not activate unexpectedly.

Currently I have VPLFT0105 “N & S” type and will eventually transition over to VPLFT077 13 Pin single socket electrical, hence why I’ve only mounted the black 7 pin socket. The white is currently tied up under the bumper until I sort the following out.

I’m wanting to run a fridge and ELKO ESC anti sway setup from the Freelander. Currently I’m being advised to run brand new cabling from the battery to the hitch using “Anderson” plugs. The “S” plug has the available wiring but I’m still researching the viability of running both these from the vehicles “S”plug knowing that these are rated at 15amp. So depending on my research I will either transition to the 13 pin if I can run these accessories or I will stay with the current “N” 7 pin and remove the “S” and use the area where the “S” plug used to be for 2 Anderson plugs. MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System (WIP)
InControl Apps
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (WIP)

Post #372574 25th May 2019 1:12 pm
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Lightwater



Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney NB
Posts: 2371

Australia 2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

The rated current for 12 volts on my 28 litre fridge is 6.5 amps. The maximum it uses when running is about 3.8 amps. It gets less as the battery's voltage drops.

Fridge only running 3.7 amps:


Wire resistance, lets be generous, 13.85 volts, 6 amps, 20 metres + & - (there & back)

10 awg 2.89% loss
8 awg 1.819% loss
6 awg 1.144% loss
4 awg 0.720% loss

Maybe leave the car wiring & upgrade the caravan wiring to something completely oversize, if that doesn't work, at lease the caravan has been done properly!

The Waeco RPD190 & RPD218 fridges, 12 volts rated current 9.6 amps. So probably using about 6 amps.

I now have a 20 amp MPPT replacing the previous 10 amp MPPT. So have up to 11.3 amps squeezing every last drop out of the solar panels. Before it cut off at 10 amps! Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 1.2kW air compressor Air tank On-board pressure water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors 2x 1kg ABE Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x 26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 18amp DC-DC 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x 255/60R18 Petrol 10.48L/100 inc 500kg payload

Post #372626 26th May 2019 11:06 am
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Stuartc



Member Since: 01 Dec 2014
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 2187

Australia 2015 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Aintree Green

Great! That’s really useful Thumbs Up
I’m currently wading through the BS and I’m sure the claims of the van retailer for Anderson plugs and way over rated wiring modifications are more of a dealer “add on” profit centre than required. I’m also not planning on going with either a 3 way
Absorption fridge as they require far more current to run and not really effective in our hot climate.
The Freelander 2 also has Trailer Stability Assist so the ALKO is really not required.
So what I really want is a good battery setup with a solar array and the car can act as a top up source when on the road. Just need to get my head around that so I know what to specify. MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System (WIP)
InControl Apps
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (WIP)

Post #372630 26th May 2019 12:56 pm
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Lightwater



Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney NB
Posts: 2371

Australia 2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

A 50 amp Anderson plug with 6 awg wire, can handle 120 amps if the circuit is open before plugging or unplugging. They probably the most convenient size even if a bit overkill. I have 35 amp plugs on the back of my solar panels, being smaller they are a bit fiddly.

Make sure your solar controller is as reasonably close as possible to the batteries. I'm using Victron for all my equipment, it's a bit dearer but it seems well made, & you have data on your mobile which is handy, but it is only Bluetooth so you have to be fairly close.

Use heavy enough wire. It's too much effort to redo it.

Copied from another forum:
Drill a hole in a block of wood so the Anderson lug sits in the hole neatly. The wood will also act as insulation while heating up the lug.

I stand a 120 watt soldering iron in the end of the lug, 2/3 fill with solder, also warm up the wire with another iron so the wire does not go into the solder cold.

You have to organise your bench so you can do it all in one process, & a clamp or 2 to hold things in place.

I use 6 awg wire for my extension leads which have a cross sectional area 13.3 mm2. Max current only about 4 amps with panels in series, but I want to keep losses to a minimum.

After I heatshrink the back half of the lug & a reasonable length up each wire.

You might need a bit more than 10 metres of extension depending on camping environment, ie trees, & panels have to reach the far side of the vehicle for connection. You could do extensions in 2 lengths, maybe a second extension 50% the length of the first for a bit of flexibility. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 1.2kW air compressor Air tank On-board pressure water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors 2x 1kg ABE Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x 26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 18amp DC-DC 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x 255/60R18 Petrol 10.48L/100 inc 500kg payload

Post #372631 26th May 2019 1:55 pm
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Lightwater



Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney NB
Posts: 2371

Australia 2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

Don't go with a 3 way, from what I have read they use about 12 amps every hour & don't run efficiently & struggle in really hot weather. It's either on gas or 240, 12 volts only while driving.

Compressor fridges are really efficient, but some installations are pretty third rate from things I have read. Not vented properly & caravan insulation covering vents. Very poor installation! Under sized wiring from solar panels to battery & from battery to fridge. Poorly placed solar controller. Insulation could be improved.

Have plenty of spare capacity in the solar controller, that's my experience. I would go with a MPPT, some disagree, but I believe they squeeze more out of the sun when conditions are not ideal.

Shadows of any size are a disaster. If panels are on the caravan roof & other things shadow them, even a little bit, you are better to have all panels in parallel, so if one panel has a bit of shadow the rest still work, but you need heavier wiring.

If shadowing is less of an issue put 2 panels in series, then by 2, 3 or 4 sets etc.

If using portable panels bypass the controller stuck on the back, they are in the wrong place & pieces of rubbish anyway! Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 1.2kW air compressor Air tank On-board pressure water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors 2x 1kg ABE Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x 26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 18amp DC-DC 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x 255/60R18 Petrol 10.48L/100 inc 500kg payload

Post #372635 26th May 2019 2:55 pm
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