Interesting that you are running on HVO, this will become more viscous quicker at lower temperatures compared with straight diesel, which will not help. What percentage is it?

According to the specs, it isn't really HVO, rather renewable diesel.
It's approoved according to EN 15940, and tolerates down to - 40 C. and they clearify that it "doesn't contain bio-diesel"

I have had as much as 100 % on the tank, now im using maybe 60 - 70% due to the pump being 25 min away and frequent long trips in the opposite direction. On cold days ( > -15 ) I've had more trouble with regular than this..

I had to look up HVO. For those as ignorant as myself this is an interesting paper: http://www.biofuelstp.eu/downloads/SAE_Stu...l_Fuel.pdf
It appears that "Renewable Diesel" is in fact another term for HVO. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

Yes, hydrated vegetable oil. Viscosity comparisons quoted on that website are at 40 degC, at lower temperatures I think the viscosity would be a problem.
I think with temperatures as low as -15 degC, it would cause starting issues?

That might as well be.

But the importer / supplier says differently.
It's called 2G polar (In Norway) You would find mostly Norwegian articles about it (I think) It's supplied through a Finnish company called Neste Oil. I don't have the knowledge about it to prove or disprove. All I know is that it's approoved by PSA and to - 40 C. So I'm unsure about if the viscous proplem on this exact fuel. It works for me

Edit: This is their take on it:

"Not BIO, but renewable
- We do not want to call this biodiesel, but renewable diesel. The Finnish-produced fuel is based on a variety of raw materials, from tall oil which is a byproduct of cellulose production to fish oil, fat from slaughterhouses and various byproducts from other chemical processes, says CEO Geir H. Ingeborgrud in Eco-1.
Another name they're using on the fuel is BTL which stands for Bio To Liquid. It is not far from a very similar diesel quality GTL - Gas To Liquid. It is also very clean, but is based on fossil natural gas and can not be called renewable."

Anyway - any info on the cluth release / stall problem I have, is this normal?
Just started it now, and felt the pedal "hanging" on release, got better after a few press / depress. All clutch components were changed recently.

I did have a similar problem once, on a Sherpa van. The clutch appeared to be sticking, and only engaging after a short period (it was fun driving it over the Alps!). It was not affected by temperature however, and I eventually decided there must have been some problem with the main shaft from the gearbox - perhaps damaged while a new clutch was being fitted. Solved by fitting a new gearbox. I wonder if your problem could be to do with lubrication - is the shaft perhaps contaminated with grease or oil which makes clutch movement sluggish until it warms up? I must admit I'm not familiar with the clutch assembly on the FR2, so this is only a shot in the dark. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

Thanks. I don't think this is relateable to your issue, but it might be contamination or something..
I took notice this morning, the first clutch pedal press, it was reluctant to return smoothly, but the next 2 - 3 presses were better. After glowing 4 times and starting her up, the engine didnt stall after depress - seems like the slave might be sticking in the cold. I have checked with garage, they said they changed all related clutch parts + DMF (and that it was a PIG of a job / 10 h of work.) Im glad the dealership did it before I got the car, saw the invoice

Hi lads
New to this forum but I'm in desperate need of help.
My 2007 freelander2 has a cold start issue (as I see a lot have) I thought it was glow plugs as would take a while to start and smokes like mad when it did (unburnt fuel) glow plugs changed and still the same but with no fault codes, got told it was a fuel issue so get injectors and pump checked and all ok, I cleaned out egr valve and replaced throttle body as still the same.
By the way checked all fuses and power to glow plugs and that's ok too.
I've scanned it again and there are 4 glow plug faults all to do with the control module but got told by a landrover dealer that they don't have one?????

So now I've come to the people that really know what there talking about

Some help would be much appreciated as I'm thinking about just getting rid now as doing my brain in
(if they do have a module could you tell me where to look please)

please keep cold start issues in one place, thank you Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

does anyone have a rough idea of costs to fit 4 new glow plugs ??

I know they are only about £15-£20 each to buy but what have people paid for fitting at an indy ?

its in for a B service at my local LR dealer later this month so fuel filter should be changed then

im getting a little slow cold cranking at the minute when temperatures have dipped below 0deg with some intial rough running and blue(ish) smoke until the revs settle down fully. Ive had the HDC unavailable (extra earth?) once and reduced engine performance once on the dash, but both cleared after a switch on/off and haven't returned.

Not a UK man, so can only help as much.
Like all things in the world, they cost even more here.
I paid around £290,00 for the job and around £20,00 for the plugs (abroad offcoarse)
They wanted to sell me the plugs here for around £ 30,00 a pcs!!

Now i only have a pinion diff or wheel bearing to sort out, I swear, this car is both easy to love and hate..

thanks for the reply, im guessing then that the job will cost about £200 all in over here in sunny UK