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| Speedway Member Since: 13 Oct 2010 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 392
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Parsonally I agree with Clarkson [ now there's a first ], cars with LED running lights look like a council house at Christmas, I would go for the Scandinavian option. Gone, 2007 TD4 SE Auto Baltic blue, clear side repeaters, full sized alloy spare.
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| Speedway Member Since: 13 Oct 2010 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 392
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Good Yorkshire humour, English by birth..... Yorkshire by the grace of God. |
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| RazMan Member Since: 18 Nov 2011 Location: Essexshire Posts: 336
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Russ, that looks exactly how I want my lights to look - a real 'factory' look and a superb bit of modding too. I wonder where the LED rings come from. *edit* Found 'em - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Scooter-Motorb...1185wt_911 Not sure if the 70mm or 75mm versions would be more suitable - has anyone got a foglight to hand? Funny enough I did a similar mod to some Mini sidelights a few years back. I used them in my toy car (home built mid engined V6 ) feeding a strip of leds into the reflector housing - they look very similar. Last edited by RazMan on 1st Dec 2011 10:46 pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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| russben Member Since: 03 Dec 2010 Location: lancashire Posts: 314
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I just found some more photo's of the DRLs on a Disco 3.
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| RazMan Member Since: 18 Nov 2011 Location: Essexshire Posts: 336
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Update: I have sourced a spare set of foglights and after 'cooking' them in the oven (don't tell SWMBO |
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| LASPAE Member Since: 03 Dec 2011 Location: Agia Napa Posts: 15
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At what temperature did you "cook" them I ve thought to do this to the main lighting module (beams, side lights, trafficators, module). There is a lot of unused space in there to put a day light, but I m afraid, I m not a good baker... |
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| RazMan Member Since: 18 Nov 2011 Location: Essexshire Posts: 336
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I found that about 15 mins at 180 degrees was enough to soften the bonding compound, and with a bit of gentle levering with a few different tools (I used a large screwdriver and a metal ruler) I managed to ease the glass lense assembly from the plastic housing. Take your time though - it is easy to break something if you rush it. Cheers, Raz FL1 TD4 GS Auto 2001 Silver FL2 TD4 Auto 2007 Black FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2012 Fuji White |
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| jp Member Since: 11 May 2009 Location: North East Posts: 432
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RazMan,
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| simont Member Since: 15 Feb 2011 Location: Sunderland/Newcastle Posts: 1809
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From what I've read on various threads you may be better passing the "positive" lead through the passenger side bulkhead and connecting to a spare fuse slot with a fly-lead fuse thingy. There should be at least one which is ignition live switched as it is used to power the sat-navs when retrofitted into the cubby hole. 2002 Toyota Celica 140 Silver (mid life crisis - again!) 2007 FL2 GS Manual Army Reconnaissance Green + freel2.com sticker 2004 Toyota Celica 140 Black - Gone 2000 Toyota Celica 140 Silver - Gone 1998 Toyota Celica ST Pearl Green - Gone 1996 Nissan Primera 1.6 - Gone 1994 Rover Montego 1.6 Auto - Gone |
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| sparkybaz Member Since: 04 Jun 2011 Location: manchester Posts: 184
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look at my gallery pics for fuse positions |
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| EYorkshire Member Since: 18 Nov 2010 Location: (!) Posts: 4392 |
F5 is ignition accessory in passenger side fusebox |
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| AndyC Member Since: 30 Nov 2007 Location: Where the snow dosen't melt when the sun is shining! Posts: 4165
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However there are more and more Christmas Tree vehicles on the road here than ever before. Seems one manufacturer after another is following Audi's stupidity Stornoway Grey with Ebony Black Pleather, Clear Indicators, Body Side Mouldings etc. |
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| jp Member Since: 11 May 2009 Location: North East Posts: 432
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Thanks about the information about the power feed |
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| athelstan Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: Reality Posts: 2658 |
Ah, so you're an underwater trick cyclist - fascinating - didn't know DRL were obligatory in the ocean's depths |
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