Is this the one Mikey ? Its half the price than the LR dealers even at 20% off that I have been using.

http://www.paddockspares.com/lr001247g-oil...mahle.html FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Just received the oil pressure test kit today.
Is there an easy way to get at the oil pressure switch without having to dislocate your wrist and elbow?
I can see the switch with an inspection mirror and I could probably remove it blind but I can't manage to disconnect the wiring plug.
The plug looks like the type were you have to lift a plastic tab as you pull it. Unfortunately that bit is against the engine so can't get my fingers in.
Think I may have to remove the bumper and possibly the radiator.
If there is a easier way please let me know

Quick edit......had another look, think if I take out the fan assembly it may just give enough room. Will have a look tomorrow, weather permitting. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Yorky Bob wrote:

Is this the one Mikey ? Its half the price than the LR dealers even at 20% off that I have been using.

http://www.paddockspares.com/lr001247g-oil...mahle.html

Yes

gasman wrote:

Just received the oil pressure test kit today.
Is there an easy way to get at the oil pressure switch without having to dislocate your wrist and elbow?
I can see the switch with an inspection mirror and I could probably remove it blind but I can't manage to disconnect the wiring plug.
The plug looks like the type were you have to lift a plastic tab as you pull it. Unfortunately that bit is against the engine so can't get my fingers in.
Think I may have to remove the bumper and possibly the radiator.
If there is a easier way please let me know

Quick edit......had another look, think if I take out the fan assembly it may just give enough room. Will have a look tomorrow, weather permitting.

Hi Bob
You're right the online manual is no help, neither is the Haynes.
Anyway removed the fan assembly which does give more access. Managed with great effort to get the electrical plug off. Now I find I don't have a socket to fit the sensor. Requires a deep socket just don't know what size.
New sensor should come today, I'll work it out from there.

Quick edit........ New sensor just arrived, 22mm. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Update

Fitted the oil pressure gauge ..... Engine cold
Started engine....... approx 1.6 bar pressure.
Increased revs slowly.... got to 2000rpm. gauge shot up to just over 6 bar.
Increased revs to 4000rpm. gauge still reading just over 6 bar.
Red lined engine ..... no further increase in pressure.... stayed at just over 6 bar.
Let engine return to idle..... pressure stayed at 6 bar for approx 20- 30 seconds then returned to 1.6 bar.

Is that good or bad.

Bob said 3.1 bar at 4000rpm.

Manual just says max pressure of 6.5 bar at 4500rpm.

Haven't as yet done the oil and filter change as I'm waiting for the ThreeBond gasket sealant for the sump pan.

Looking for some help Guys  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Seems to be in line with the lower workshop manual figures. New oil and filter as a treat and I would be happy to drive on those figures.

My 1958 Series One oil light used to flicker when warm on tick-over. Cure to stop me being distracted was to tape over the warning light so it could not be seen.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

The test really needs to be carried out when the engine is fully warmed up. The mechanic in me had me cringing when I read how you had tested the engine at full revs when cold. I would never dream of doing that as the wear and stress on the engine is a sure fire way to get a conrod through the side of the engine especially if you suspect that there might be an oil pressure problem The reading you did get would seem ok but its the readings you get when the engine is hot that are more important. Readings can drop off dramatically when the oil has warmed up so they give a much better indication of how things are with the engine. But please don`t rev the guts out it when doing the test. 2500 to a max 3000 will be enough to get you the readings you need.

Thanks for the input Bob

Going to do the oil and filter tomorrow.
Think I'll still take the sump plate off and check for any gunge, can only help.
Think I'll also change the oil pressure switch as I have one and its a to get to later.

Trouble is I won't know if it has cured the issue for a while as it was a hit and miss issue.

Just out of interest Bob, were did you get the figures of 3.1bar at 4000rpm from, because that worried me after seeing my results.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Drivers of series Land Rovers will be very familiar with the oil light coming on when going round a corner or braking at a junction. That let you know that it was time to top up the oil again as the engine had burnt most of it to the point it did not show on the dipstick!

Appreciate the concern 'dondiddy' but as I'm slow the engine was not cold when reved up. Not at full working temp. but not cold.
As the car has many bits off it at the moment and is not road worthy would it be OK to just let it get to operating temp. on the drive  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Now I'm worried

Just done the pressure test again but this time let it warm up more.
Temp gauge approx 1/4 off bottom.
Pressure results as follows.
Idle. approx 800rpm. Oil pressure 0.5bar
1000rpm. Oil pressure 1.5bar
2000rpm. Oil pressure 5.5bar
3000rpm. Oil pressure 5.5bar

This now explains the oil warning light. As the car has stop/start it doesn't often idle when warm, hence I've only seen it twice.

Now then what could be the cause.
I doubt its engine ware as its only got 53k on the clock and I drive like a grandad , never driven hard.
Also had regular oil and filter changes.

Open to suggestions from anyone.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

I would suggest doing what you mentioned before. Change the oil and filter and perhaps drop the sump and ensure that the strainer is clear of any gunk or sludge. Rebuild then retake your hot readings. As the engine won`t be fully up to operating temp in your drive the idle pressure is very low (and will probably be even lower when fully warmed up). The pressure at 1000 rpm is much better and less of a problem. Hopefully changing to a better quality oil filter will improve the idle pressure.

P.S Have you checked that the oil level isn`t high in case a weeping injector has been leaking diesel into the sump and diluting the oil.

Thanks dondiddy.

Good advice.
Oil level is fine, at 3/4 , never moved since last oil change.

Will give it ago in the morning.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Up date on issue

Drained oil and changed filter.
Removed all the bolts from the sump pan. According to the manual you then give it a thump with the palm of your hand to break the seal.
Absolutely no way Belted the living daylights out of it with a rubber mallet, no way was that going to shift, may as well be welded on.
Tried prizing it with pry bars, then hammer and chisel.
The only way that was going to come off was to completely destroy it. Gave up.

Anyway left the oil to completely drain for an hour or so. Why is the drain plug not at the lowest point of the sump.

Filled with new oil and unplugged the injectors. Cranked the engine to get some pressure. Initial 5bar then settled to about 2bar.

Put everything back together and took it for a short gentle drive to get to normal operating temperature.

New readings are as follows.
Idle approx 700rpm. 1.5bar
1000rpm. 2.5bar
2000rpm. 5.0bar
3000rpm. 5.5bar
Back to rest and idle 1.5bar and steady.

I'm assuming that's now decent readings.
Refitted the oil pressure switch and the fan assembly.

Appreciate any comments.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.