A Kenwood 6.96" LZ702W touch screen monitor fitted up to a Kenwood/Garmin KNA-421 hard disc Sat Nav unit.

The screen fits the original dash placement perfectly, down to the bezel on the screen. The buttons are hidden from view nicely. All functions can be operated via the screen. It's slim and is connected to a hidden small control unit. Only wires, positive, negative. The handbrake wire doesn't require fitted. The rear camera wire doesn't require connected unless you want to see out the back. It has 2 AV out connectors and 1 in AV besides the GRB connector. You can then connect all sorts of things.

The Sat Nav unit is the latest for 2008. It is small, light and doesn't emit any heat. It doesn't require fitted to the speed sensor or reversing wiring. Just a positive, battery and ground, (the handbrake wire is only required if using it to view DVD's)

I haven't fitted it all up yet. I am tempted to do the wiring via the centre isle console. The front aux plug is ignition switched. The rear is constant battery. The earth could be done to the handbrake bolt. I have found a LR dealer who will do the job, but at a high price, many won't on account it's not LR accessories. I will have a think before I go further and will post on here. Personally, I know it will exceed the standard LR satnav. The functions are unbelievable.

Don't get me wrong the guys on here who have adapted Sony and Garmin dash satnavs have done a good job and at a very good price, but this would be indistinguishable from the original to look at and have more functions, albeit at a cost.

Where are you planning to mount the unit? In the hole in the dash?

Some pics of your car when its fitted would be awesome!
_________________
2007 TD4 SE

I reckon the ultimate one would be for someone to fit the OEM one but aftermarket.

I know someone that did it with an 05 Honda Accord but it was a bit too extreme for my skills.
_________________
09MY FL2 Td4 XS, Style Pack, Privacy Glass, Martinique Blue.. oh so very blue..

sounds like the one Funsmart put in his FL2

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic1145.html
_________________
Unless its in the garage I have a
'56 FaultLander2 SE TD4 manual in Stornoway Grey on 17" Goodyear Wranglers M+S
After Market Tinted Rear Glass
On & Off Road Side Protection Tubes
Recaro Monza Seatfix Child Seat & Headrest DVD Rear Seat Entertainment
Tow Bar for the Tintent
Speed Dial for Service Department
See whose looking at what

Yes, you are right, although he used a 760 monitor and a 520 satnav.

The 760 monitor is quite expensive, seen it for £250. The 702, which has all the functions you'd want is on special offer at Just Kenwood at £150. I can see any difference in the specs.

The 520 is getting obsolete. Still a good unit, but has speed sensor wires and you need to connect it up to the reversing lights. A lot more trouble. The 421 is far more advanced and works off the SiRF Star III navigation by contrast. That said you can update both via a USB slot or a SD card slot in the unit.

I've seen a buy now on Ebay of the combination I've got. The guy is selling it for £650, which is maybe a little high. With a bit of shopping around, you can probably get both for roughly £500. The only thing you'd have to add to that is fitting, either DIY, but if you are a bit unsure, like most of us, especially as you can't seem to get a decent FL2 wiring diagramme, you have to make the choice between a specialist firm or LR, if you can find a dealer to do it and then fork out another £500.

As for the previous reply about the ultimate being a retro factory fit. I did manage to get a scrapped vehicle original unit consisting of a CD head/unit and screen, but the wiring looked far too complicated and my hope that the wiring loom was fitted as standard despite what model you purchased, was shot to pieces. I could have spent cash getting a LR dealer to fit it up and then find the thing didn't work. You don't get any warranty with scrappys. Time to cut your losses. Besides which factory fit isn't always the best option. All you have to do is look at the dash mounted satnavs and see what functions you get for £100-£200 before you see they are vastly over priced. Maybe I've gone OTT, but it depends on what your priorities are. Mine was to get something that actually looked like it had always been there and filled the gap as well as being the latest in technology. I can't argue against the £100 satnavs I've seen on here, but no matter what you do it's always going to look like it doesn't belong.

I think your and the similar funsmart one, are way ahead of what LR offer

I would do the same if it was already in my FL2 SE
_________________
Unless its in the garage I have a
'56 FaultLander2 SE TD4 manual in Stornoway Grey on 17" Goodyear Wranglers M+S
After Market Tinted Rear Glass
On & Off Road Side Protection Tubes
Recaro Monza Seatfix Child Seat & Headrest DVD Rear Seat Entertainment
Tow Bar for the Tintent
Speed Dial for Service Department
See whose looking at what

Your right, it's the wifes motor, not mine, but she says and I obey, just like the rest of us! I've spent a fortune keeping her face straight with that car. To start with she didn't want me spending a lot of cash out on the thing, so instead of a SE or HSE, we went for a cheaper version, but added various packs, heated front screen, privacy glass etc. Then before she'd had delivery, I'd had to buy 3 sets of alloys, side steps, mud flaps, two colours of interior mats etc. etc. I've lost count. I know with the satnav that if I go cheap and it doesn't look like it's been there all along, she will make some comment, so I might as well get it right first time.

That apart, she doen't like using it in the rain, nor getting it dirty, nor putting the milage up on it. Instead, she uses my car, gets that dirty and runs the milage up.

10 years ago, when she was single and we were dating, she had a Fiesta with cuddly toys everywhere. I had a Vectra 2.5 V6 turbo. Guess what, I got her motor and had to suffer the people at work pi ng themselves laughing at me, lost my street cred and she sped up and down the dual carriageway taking on boy racers in their Peugot 205's in my V6! All I can say is I must have done something really bad in a previous life to deserve that.

If I change my present car to a LR2 it might solve the problem, on the other hand if I got a SE or HSE, she would steal that. I can't win! Now where did she hide all the bits of rope, sharp knives and Aspirins today?

Carnoch,

Did you get my PM?

Doh! I didn't check, must be having a thick moment today. Apologies, I've replied to you direct. Thanks.

Well, after hours of reading every post around and any information on installing satnav, plus pulling the dash and centre facia apart, I am 99% I've got the installation plan right for this kit including the siting of the monitor conrol unit and satnav hard disc, routing of wiring using existing wiring routes, satnav receiver, what wires to go into, the lot. Tomorrow will tell. If I've got it right, pics and a detailed how to DIY (idiot proof) will follow.

From what I've seen on Ebay, ex demo kna-520, the older hard disc satnav, go for about £160 at auction, buy nows £320. At the Just Kenwood web site, the 702w touch screen monitor is £149.99 post free. In essence, you could have a 7" factory fit look for £300 and a couple of hours work.

Well, it took all day, but the satnav has been done. I am very impressed by myself. I've been trying to upload some photos, but keep getting a critial error for some reason. I'll try again. This method involves no cutting of dashborads, glue, only three splices into the main wiring sysytem and it works with the ignition. I'll try to put the photos up and if people want an idiot guide, then I can do that too.

please upload pictures!
if possible the whole process of installing!

i've been looking around sat/nav/multimedia installation for a long time!

Hi, yes, the uploading of phots on this site has gone a bit skew whiff, but I might try an alternative way of doing it and of coursre, step by step instructions will follow. Might do them first, give me an hour.

Okay, still having problems uploading the photos, but as I said it's a Forum fault. There is an alternative way via another site and transposing them. Will do that later today or tomorrow.

I am not a trained mechanic. Yes, I do have a SCOTVEC in vehicle examination, but that was a leisure time course. Needless to say, I do not accept liability for anyone using this guide. It is done with the best of intentions, nothing more. If in doubt, don't do it. If you do, it's on your own head. It's also possible I've forgotton something, hopefully not or it's insignificant.

Firstly, make sure you have the right tools and a few extras you will need.

1. Smallest flat head watch makers screwdriver.
2. Thin nosed pliers with wire cutting bit half way up.
3. Star driver - due to the screw threads on the majority of the dash. I got mine from Halfords. It is a screwdriver with square bit at the end on which you can get a bit, the bit is star drive, 6 points, it's got 115 on the thing, so I'd suggest thats the size.
4. Small tourch.
5. Electrical joining snap close clips.
6. Insulating tape.
7. Stanley knife.
8. Siccors.
9. small flat screwdriver.
10. Cable ties - Maplins sell them very economically in packs of 50. The ones I used are 20cm long by 3mm wide in clear plastic. Halfords seem to be expensive, but do come in rather nice colours.

Okay, you are ready to start.

With the watchmakers screwdriver, lightly poke it down the top side of the coin tray in front if the cubby hole that the factory fit Satnav would go. Take care not to mark the rubber or the dash. The aim is to get enough of an opening to get your finger nail in and gently prize it away from it's hole fixings by pulling it towards you. This will expose 2 screws. Using the star driver, remove the screws. Then place the coin tray and screws in your boot. I only suggest that so if you do it logically, you can put it back with no bits spare.

Next, and this is apparantly a difficult bit, get the small screwdriver, wrap the blade a couple of times with insulating tape - to avoid damaging the trim, and from the passenger seat, push the blade down on the dash and poke it just under the speaker trim. you'll see the most logical place, at the left hand side near the front, move the blade gently up to about an inch from the top of this trim. Stop there and gently ease the screw driver up. The left hand side of the speaker trim will lift. Get a finger underneath and run another finger from there round to the right side. The speaker trim will pop off. This will expose another four star screws. Remove these and place with the speaker trim in the boot.

Next, pull off the gear stick surround. Do this by gripping the rear of the silver surround and pull backwards and up. Bit of force here, but try easing it several times, eventually it will prise off. Dont pull it off too far. Reach around and disconnect the electrical connector block that controls your T/Control knob or the HDC etc, depending on model. The connector has a locking device, you push in with your finger. Turn the surround round 90 degrees, so it gives you a bit of room for the next step.

Now the bit people gulp at, gently - I seem to be using this word a lot, but now assume everything is gently unless told otherwise, tug at the top of the facia. If it's difficult, tug at the two sides near the bottom of the facia near the heating controls. It should ping off like the speaker trim. For those in doubt, both are held by plastic pegs adorned with a spring clip. You will not dislodge these clips, nor break the pegs. It may take a bit of a tug. Do not pull it more than 6"-12". You will have to put your hand round the rear and remove the multi electrical connector which controls the central locking and hazard warning controls. It has a little lug on one side you press down on before it will come away.

The facia is now removed and the Satnav box can be disengaged, it's just sitting there, because you have removed the screws. Place all of this in the boot.

Next, unscrew the 4 star screws, both left and right of the radio and withdraw it slightly, watch you dont bash it against the dash or the gear stick. It will mark if you do. Disconnect the ariel lead and two multiconnectors. They have these lugs, so be sure to press them before removing them. Don't worry about what goes where, they are all different sizes, so you cant confuse them.

Next is the heater controls. It has two star screws, remove them, disconnect the electrical connection and it will come away, place in boot.

This now gives you access to the whole centre console area. The radio will still work when you plug it back in. No I didn't disconnect the battery. I am not saying it would be wrong to do so, it's just what I did. Next the trim between the front seats. I'll post this shortly.

Last edited by Carnoch on 23rd Sep 2008 12:39 pm. Edited 3 times in total

Okay, back again, the centre consol is a bit of a devil.

Extra tools,

1. A small Hex socket set.

Go to the back seat area making sure the front passenger seat is well forward as it will give you room to work. Go to the rear rubber coin holder. Using that watchmakers screwdriver, pop it in one of the two slots that should just be visable when looking at it from above. They are located at the rear most part. Prise it up enough to get a finger nail on the coin holder surround. Work another finger to the other slot and prise it up. It should pop out. The two plastic locating knobs and metal spring covers are all thats holding it.

Get your four pingers up behind the trinket tray that above it and tug it slightly upwards and towards you. It should come away. There is only one centrally located knob and spring there.

This allows you to see a the rear of the handbrake fitting, a multiconnector on the left hand side and the rear aux socket on the right hand side. You should remove the two star screws you can see at either side and using a small socket set, unscrew the two hex bolts, left and right nearby.

Next, the deep square tray in front of this and whats just behind the cup holders. Using the watchmakers screw driver, get a finger nail under this and pull it way. It's not fixed, just a tight fit. It will expose one star screw. Remove this. Go to the hole where you lifted the silver gear surround from. There is a white padding that has 5 distinct 'fingers' pull this up the gear stick as far as you can. It exposes the hadbrake mechanism, which is in white platic. If you look towards the front of this, you will see a grey bit of foam padding, you can pull this towards you and remove it - we are looking to put cables here in case you are wondering. To the top left is an dual ariel conector. On most models not having satnav, only one lead is utilised. There are also other multiconnectors. Don't worry, you don't need to touch any of these.

Back to the gear stick hole there are two small bolts in black, fastening the console to the facia. They are horizontally located, remove them. Then look into the gearstick hole, to the left and right of the white plastic there are another two small black bolts facing the floor pan. They secure and locate the console sides. Remove these. You can now ease the console backwards and an inch or two and a plastic locating lug between the console and facia will come out of it's hole. This now means you have better access to the centre console. You can move it about within reason. Yes, mucking about with the handbrake facia and synthetic leather handbrake gaitor will allow even more access or you can remove the centre console tunnel, but unless you are confident, don't go there. I found it a right bugger to bet back, although not impossible.

Next installments will be where to locate the monitor control unit, the satnav hard disc unit, how and where to wire it up without one wire showing, where to run the monitor wire to the monitor, the satnav ariel, without the need to plonk it on the roof or even on the windscreen and still get great reception and anything else I've forgotten. I'll maybe do that tomorrow. I am getting writers block.

Last edited by Carnoch on 23rd Sep 2008 10:18 am. Edited 1 time in total