If the plug is steel and the body aluminum (I think they are), then the coefficients of expansion will work in you favor with heat... the aluminum will expand more than the steel, and that might also break or ease the corrosion bond.

Aluminium is about twice that of steel. So you could heat up the entire area. Then use some electronic freeze spray on the steel.


https://www.jaycar.com.au/freezing-spray-can/p/NA1000

(Also good for freezing ticks in Australia, we always take a can when camping) Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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Bobupndown wrote:

Arc welding will be fine, you're not looking for pretty welding just strong and the heat will definitely help. Tack a big flat washer to the fill plug then a decent sized nut M10 or bigger for the size of the fill plug on to the top and fill the centre with weld, concentrating as much heat as possible to the plug. If your washer is bigger than the nut you can tack the outside as well. While it's still warm get a socket onto it and hopefully wind it out. 🤞

Sounds like this could be the solution, thank you. Does the plug need to be particularly clean to weld to or will the heat just vaporise off any oil etc? Are there likely to be any rubber o-rings etc in the vicinity that might be damaged by the heat or will the heat stay fairly localised? 2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto

There is an O-ring on the filler plug.

OK, so I need to have a replacement plug on hand or at least a replacement o-ring. I'll see if I can pick one up locally. 2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto

Looks like LR000876 is the replacement plug, can anyone confirm this please?

Just going back to the TC, what happens if/when it fails altogether? Will I just lose drive and have to get the vehicle recovered? Is it a catastrophic failure that can take out other components etc? 2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto

When you get the plug out, make sure the replacement is only torqued to 7Nm, which is the figure given in the workshop manual. 7Nm is nothing, literally just tight enough so it doesn't vibrate loose. The rubber seal does the sealing, not how tight it is. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
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CaptainBarnacles wrote:

Bobupndown wrote:

Arc welding will be fine, you're not looking for pretty welding just strong and the heat will definitely help. Tack a big flat washer to the fill plug then a decent sized nut M10 or bigger for the size of the fill plug on to the top and fill the centre with weld, concentrating as much heat as possible to the plug. If your washer is bigger than the nut you can tack the outside as well. While it's still warm get a socket onto it and hopefully wind it out. 🤞

Sounds like this could be the solution, thank you. Does the plug need to be particularly clean to weld to or will the heat just vaporise off any oil etc? Are there likely to be any rubber o-rings etc in the vicinity that might be damaged by the heat or will the heat stay fairly localised?

Nodge68 wrote:

When you get the plug out, make sure the replacement is only torqued to 7Nm, which is the figure given in the workshop manual. 7Nm is nothing, literally just tight enough so it doesn't vibrate loose. The rubber seal does the sealing, not how tight it is.

Here is what I would do......Assuming that I can get my drill near the plug


1. Drill a small hole in the center for extraction later


2. Drill out the Torx until the head breaks off.
I did this for the drain side (picture is for reference only)

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I would be very concerned about the possibility of introducing swarf into the gearbox doing it like that. 🤔 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

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JonMs wrote:

Nodge68 wrote:

When you get the plug out, make sure the replacement is only torqued to 7Nm, which is the figure given in the workshop manual. 7Nm is nothing, literally just tight enough so it doesn't vibrate loose. The rubber seal does the sealing, not how tight it is.

The overflow torx bolt is 7Nm but the filler torx which I think we are talking about here, is 39Nm according to the workshop manual. Seems too high.

Bobupndown wrote:

I would be very concerned about the possibility of introducing swarf into the gearbox doing it like that. 🤔

I would apply some heat to the fill plug using a gas blow lamp set to a small flame and shield the surrounding area with wet rags. Then try to break the "seal" by tapping the plug with a chisel and hammer.

This assumes the stilsons idea didnt work.

I would be extremely cautious about drilling and inadvertently allowing swarf inside the gearbox. Jules

I haven't had access to the car for a couple of days as my wife has been using it, hopefully tomorrow I can get hands-on and try a couple of these suggestions. I promised my wife (under pain of death!!) not to do anything to the car that might jeopardise our touring holiday to northern Spain that we set off for in 3 days time so I might have to postpone some of the more "challenging" (I'm a willing and reasonably able mechanic but I still consider myself to be a novice) procedures until we get back.

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions, I really appreciate all the great advice and I'll post an update when I've had a crack at it.  2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto