Freelander 2 Auto Gear box Oil Change (TD4 MY07 to 12)

The specified ATF capacity is 7 litres of Esso JWS3309US (LR002748). In my case I found Mobil ATF3309 meets the identical specification and offered better value using forum sponsor Opie Oils.

I used the “Dump & Fill” method. (This method changes approximately 3 litres ATF each time)

Important Note: Cleanliness is essential when working with the auto gearbox. Slightest ingress of dirt or grit can lead to major expense.

Tools required
A pair of sturdy ramps plus a pair of axle stands to level the vehicle once the front is on the ramps. Alternatively borrow a garage 4-poster lift as I did!
T55 Torx bit – for the fill plug.
17mm hex plug adapter (male driver) – for the main drain plug.
T40 Torx bit – for the “integrated level plug” (found within the main drain plug).
13mm socket or spanner – for the lower engine cover bolts (x6) – mine were so worn I found a 1/2” AF socket worked better!
Spill tray or bowls plus clear plastic bottle or bottles to hold at least 3 litres of fluid per change. Tip: mark the bottles beforehand with graduated quantities to establish exactly how much has been drained.
2 plastic funnels to aid draining into the bottles and refill.
A supply of CLEAN rags plus I recommend a box of disposable latex gloves as the ATF can be harmful to skin.

Spares required
A minimum of 4 litres ATF fluid (I bought 10 litres & used 9)
LR000869 & LR00867 Seals, (O rings) For filler plug and integrated level plug.
LR002461 Gasket, Drain Plug (alloy crush washer)

Torque settings
Filler Plug 30nm
Drain Plug 45nm
Integrated level plug 8nm



GEARBOX FILLER CAP (LOWER CENTRE) VIEWED FROM ABOVE


GEARBOX DRAIN PLUG, WITH LEVEL PLUG IN CENTRE


REPLACEMENT SEALS

The Dump & Fill Method
Open the bonnet and locate the filler plug which can be seen below the Air Filter casing. Ensure the plug and area around the plug is absolutely clean before you start. You do not want the slightest of debris to enter the gearbox once the plug is removed!
Using the T55 Torx bit and appropriate ½ drive extensions etc, “Crack open” the plug but leave hand tight. (Mine was really tight, needing a breaker bar)
Raise the vehicle on ramps/axle stands so as to gain easy access below the engine. Ensure the vehicle is level and adequately supported.
Remove the lower engine cover using 13mm socket/spanner and put to one side.
Position a spill tray or bowl below the auto box drain.
Locate the gearbox drain plug and, using the T40 Torx bit, start to slacken the integrated level plug, found in the centre of the drain plug.
Have immediately to hand a clear plastic bottle and funnel so as to collect all drained fluid. (You will need to measure the quantity removed to easily know the quantity to refill)
By hand, with the bottle and funnel ready in the other, remove the integrated level plug and catch all the fluid in the bottle. Expect anything from 600ml to 1.4 litre.
Once this has finished draining, you can carefully start to remove the main drain plug with the 17mm hex plug and spanner. NB: the drain plug has an internal tube about 50mm in length. As you unscrew the plug, the internal tube will obviously lower, causing the retained fluid to enter the tube and start to drain out before the plug is removed. Be ready to catch all the fluid! Expect a total of approx 2.1 litres. If you are lucky enough to catch it all, your spill tray will remain dry and you will be able to exactly quantify the top up needed.
When draining has finished, clean the drain plug and refit with the alloy gasket.
Using a clean funnel and new fluid, remove the filler plug and replenish until the fluid starts to drain from the open integrated level hole. Note the quantity replenished. (expect approx 2.1 litre)
Once flow has stopped, refit the integrated level plug with O ring.
Continue with replenishment of the remainder to equal the measured quantity originally removed.
Refit the filler plug.

The engine may now be started. Allow to idle & remain in P for at least 3 minutes. Then run through all the positions between P and D on the gear selector. Stop at each position for at least 2 seconds. Perform this process at least twice.

Level Check
It is specified the fluid level check should be done with the gearbox fluid at 60 degrees C. This can be monitored if you are lucky enough to have sophisticated OBD kit. Otherwise, as in my case, wait until the gearbox casing feels quite warm, about 50 degrees C if you can monitor the casing. Alternatively take a relaxed 5 mile drive.

Once the desired temperature is reached, with the engine still running, again run through all the positions between P and D on the gear selector. Stop at each position for at least 2 seconds. Perform this process at least twice.

Remove the T40 integrated level plug and allow any surplus fluid to drain. If there is no surplus fluid drain, top up 100ml at a time until surplus fluid does drain. Once the steady flow is reduced to a drip, refit the drain plug.

Refit the lower engine cover.

Should you wish to replace more of the fluid, as I did, repeat the above method. It is important the final level check is done with gearbox fluid at 60 degrees or as close as possible.

NB: I found the drained fluid to be totally black, although without any burnt smell. (The fresh fluid is cherry red!) Even with 9 fresh litres, mine only has a hint of red, so I may well be doing this again!

NB2: The above method was used after reference to various posts on this forum, especially those from our learned font of all knowledge, Alex Pescaru, plus searches of various Volvo forums and YouTube.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Last edited by dunkley201 on 8th Aug 2017 12:00 am. Edited 1 time in total

Excellent, thanks for that.  Common sense isn't very common.
_______________________________
2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

Bob - a few questions as I am planning to do mine this year:
1) how many miles has your car done?
2) did you notice any improvement in auto box after oil change?
3) are you aware of any recommended software update or re-flash after oil change?

Dave

1) 76,200 miles
2) gear-changes feel smoother, although may be the placebo effect. They were not that noticeable before. I did previously have some prolonged noises/squeals in 2nd & 3rd gears on occasion. Could never replicate it at the dealers. Now gone. Still have the "usual" 2nd/3rd, 3rd/4th "sigh" as gears change, but not always.
3) no software update AFAIK

NB: Some Volvo forums talk of oil changes @ 20,000 miles 😳 LR say 10 years/150,000 miles 🙄

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

excellent write up bob i'll be doing this next weekend if weather ok. Terry

We were experiencing really rough / missed changes, and changed the oil, 3 litres at a time, warmed up between changes, took all day in the end. from jet black to running out bright red - 18 litres.
I did a 3 litre change at roughly 150K (too late), and did the full change at 175k-ish, she has done 185k now.
Gear change was much smoother but the damage was done, not necessarily to the box, but to Gill's confidence that the car was capable to tow the van to Italy in 2017.

We now have a 64 plate Ewok, The FL2 is still outside, our son has bought her, two very different cars, even if they do have the same engine, and are made in the same factory, not sure yet if I have made a mistake with the Ewok, but Gill is happier. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Hi Bob,

Thank you for the great tutorial and easy to understand. I need to service my my11 SD4, I did get a quotation for the ATF at the dealer but the part number for the ATF is LR022460 I see that your is LR002748. Are the steps the same since the fluid is different I'm thinking it's a defferent box but I did take a photo of the drain plug it looks the same but why different parts number for fluid? just want to be sure . Tnx

Hi MCJ
I see your motor is SD4. There may be some difference then. Maybe LR changed the model of gearbox and ATF type in the SD4. I suggest you double check by querying the part number. A call to Dan at Duckworth Parts may clarify things. It is not unknown for LR to change the part number without notice! I will amend the title of this thread to "TD4" Thanks for advising me.

Let us know the result of your enquiry.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Hello Bob,

I have send enquirers about the clarification, it will be nice if the tutorial is applicable to the SD4. I have attached my AT photo that looks the same as your.

Last edited by MCJ on 8th Aug 2017 7:47 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Thanks for putting up the original post dunkley201. Very thorough.


I am going to add that I read another topic and the poster suggested putting a magnet on to sump plugs. I am trying this idea.

Last edited by I Like Chips on 8th Aug 2017 8:55 am. Edited 1 time in total

Good idea, Chips. However, when I changed the ATF the old fluid, although black was totally free of any solids/swarf etc.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

My fluid also came out black.

I shall have to go another 24,000 miles to see if the magnetised plug picks anything up on the next fluid change.

Thanks for the excellent guide
I did the job today on my 2013 SD4 auto, used this fluid https://www.motor-oel-guenstig.de/schmiers...-lifetime.
Other than different fluid, process was exactly as described, drained 3150ml, filled 3200ml and about 50ml drizzled out after warming up to 60 degrees. The FL2 has done 220,000km's, about 140,000miles so far so felt it was about time.

Pleased it worked for you. Did you just change ATF the once? You really need to do it 3 or 4 times to change most of the fluid.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Yes only a "part-refresh" this time, will schedule another 3l change soon, don't want to give the old box a complete shock