Hi guys, following on from the demise of my xs earlier this year, i finally last week got a 2014 sd4 HSE. Lots of history, full mot and lovely condition inside and out, test drive was perfect, fast and smooth, well pleased with it, Today i learn why it was cheap, it has an intermittent issue with power.
In a nut shell, starts and drives fine, but then loses all power when setting off, no boost, no power for pulling away, very sluggish but will get upto motorway speeds eventually. No warning lights or messages, no apparent misfires or anything, just like the throttle is dead. First time it happened, i switched off and restarted the engine, and it was fine. Today its done it again, this time switching it off, i didnt think it would restart, felt like it was out of fuel, guage shows half a tank and i have put plenty in it. cranked for a couple of seconds before catching..Only thing to note is continual messages about low battery, when first putting ignition on, but it starts absolutley fine. Any suggestions gratefully received as always.

Check/exercise Turbo Vane Actuator.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39328.ht...p;start=15

Are you sure that there are no OBD Error Codes.

Fuel Gauge problem was known problem with Tank Sender wiring .

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37591.html?highlight=fuel+gauge FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I only used a basic code reader and it said no codes and EML off. The car seems to run a bit better after it cools down so not sure if its the fuel filter playing up, seems to be worse after being in slow moving traffic.

Could be dozens of things causing the problems….yes could be turbo vane ….could be battery…could be fuel filter…….could be throttle actuator……lots of “ could be”faults. Without some DTCs you will be guessing……you need to connect à decent code reader for starters……
There must be some logged…..

Good luck. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

A video for changing the actuator and exercising the turbo vanes if it's required:


Your problem isn't similar to this video is it?:
 https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

Good videos ……but ….a good DTC code reader should point thé way to go……otherwise you are just guessing……. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Anyone recommend a good code reader etc that can do stuff like air path calibration, electric handbrake service mode etc?

Have a look on Technical…..1st post KevL…….OBD READER…… 21st April 25 FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

This one ?
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic40765.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

That’s it Ian……….don’t know how you remember the links…….!

Good discussion on the thread…..& good videos from Dean1234……. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

OK so a quick update, car is in garage today for a diagnosis. No fault codes for engine, but one logged in transmission as torque converter lock up solenoid. We had this fault on the previous car for all the time we owned it, and the gear changes were noticeable, sometimes harsh with the occasional bang into gear. This car is absolutely seamless in it's changes, silly smooth. Garage doesn't do auto boxes so has spoken to a transmission specialist who says it will need a rebuild at 3.5k plus vat. Question is, could this cause the car to go into temporary limp mode in heavy traffic ? Also keep getting low battery voltage warning on dash when ignition on engine off. Checked it and 14.6v running, 12v to 12.2 not running. Could a bad battery cause spurious faults , car has been perfect all week, starting on the button without issue. It's having a new battery, new fuel filter, oil and filter, and asked him to check the turbo actuator, vanes etc and the wiring to the crank sensor.

Battery sounds like it has seen better days - should be at least 12.5V resting, anything less is likely to cause random errors.

Quick update, i have continued to have the car with reduced power as the weather has got hotter, not quite full on limp mode of late, but definitley more lethargic and a very slight metallic noise under acceleration, like the old days of pinking, no engine codes recorded, one gearbox fault still showing ( lock up solenoid). Pushed for a new fuel filter, couldnt get a purflux one locally, so ended up fitting a MANN filter. The one taken out was LUFTEN brand?? Never heard of them, neither had the mechanic but hopefully the new one will be an improvement. Fitted the MANN filter, bled it through and car seems more lively, it was really struggling on the way to the garage, on the way home much better. Been out a few times this afternoon, in traffic etc 28 degrees ext temp and not faulted, so fingers crossed it was the dodgy filter causing the issue.

On another note, he briefly ran some live data, looking at the fuel pressure expected and actual. Expected on his machine was 10000 - 20000 kpa, reading was 29600 kpa at idle, highlighted in red. In the actual pressure section, it was listed as 3000 to 8000 kpa, but again showed 29600kpa highlighted in red which he couldnt understand. He wasnt sure if his software was misreading the data and doesnt want to fire a parts cannon with no improvement.

On a negative note, the cleared gearbox code for lock up solenoid had returned. He seems to think that can be replaced on its own along with a fluid change and doesnt need a full on rebuild, any thoughts on that?

On the FFRR forum most members who have done a gearbox flush recommend Bodsy he travels all over the country specialising in flushing auto gearboxes and software updates. If its good enough for a Range Rover then it certainly will be good for a FL2
Ian Bodsworth (UpdatesByBodsy) 07770 638023

Chrism551 wrote:

and a very slight metallic noise under acceleration, like the old days of pinking,

On a negative note, the cleared gearbox code for lock up solenoid had returned. He seems to think that can be replaced on its own along with a fluid change and doesnt need a full on rebuild, any thoughts on that?