Hi All,

My first real post on here so please be gentle with me!

I have searched the forum but can’t find the answer to my query but my apologies if it has already been covered – if so - please point me in the right direction.

I would like to fit small Osram LED driving light bars to my 2014 SD4 HSE Lux which is fitted with Xenon HID headlamp bulbs (there are a number of threads relating to driving lights with halogen headlights but not xenon).

I have upgraded the xenon bulbs to Osram Nightbreakers (which are good) but would still like more light output on main beam as animals of various sizes seem to like the roads in the forest around here late at night!

So far I think I have determined the following (but happy to be corrected) –

The headlights use only one bulb each with a solenoid operated shutter. The shutter is at rest when on dipped beam but operates when main beam is selected.

My plan was to tap into the solenoid feed wire to power a relay which, in turn, would feed fused power to the driving lights. The theory being that the relay would only operate when main beam is selected. NB. No plans to fit a separate on/off switch, the driving lamps would come on whenever main beam is selected.

I removed both headlight units and put a meter between all the available pin connectors in the feed cable and earth with the vehicle in various states (ignition off, ignition on, ignition on and engine running, ditto with sidelights on, ditto with dipped beam on, ditto with main beam on) in the hope that the last option only would indicate a positive feed on one of the pins to indicate power to the solenoid but it doesn’t! Hmm. (I did see (on another forum) a comment regarding switched negative feeds. I am not sure if this is the case here?)

I have had long experience of ‘old style’ auto electrics but am obviously cautious as I do not want to risk damaging anything electrical in the new world of FETs etc. and so three questions if I may –

1. Is my theory re picking up the solenoid feed sound?
2. If so, can anyone enlighten me which wire I need to tap into?
3. If not, has anyone already added driving lights with Xenon headlights and how?

Really grateful for any advice.

Chris.

I can't see why you can't use the shutter feed to supply a relay, which then switches on LED bar from a more powerful source at the fuse box, or battery + terminal. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I've done similar, tapping off side light feed at headlight connector loom to power a relay for front fog lights (mine didn't come with them as standard) wired up relay in normal old school manner and all working fine. In fact I did thr same last weekend with a set of LED lamps I'm using for additional reverse lights.
Where are you mounting your additional front lamps? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Nodge68 wrote:

I can't see why you can't use the shutter feed to supply a relay, which then switches on LED bar from a more powerful source at the fuse box, or battery + terminal.

Bobupndown wrote:

I've done similar, tapping off side light feed at headlight connector loom to power a relay for front fog lights (mine didn't come with them as standard) wired up relay in normal old school manner and all working fine. In fact I did thr same last weekend with a set of LED lamps I'm using for additional reverse lights.
Where are you mounting your additional front lamps?

Interested to see your installation when you get round to it and your impressions of the improvement. Long debated a light bar, but never decided on where to mount it (why did they stop making cars with proper bumpers that you could bolt a set of Hella or Cibie's on?)
Just be mindful if you wire them without a switch they will be on when mot testing. Are they 'E' marked for road use? Personally would fit an additional switch so they can be disabled. Suppose taking the fuse out for mot would also solve that. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Wyevalley wrote:

Nodge68 wrote:

I can't see why you can't use the shutter feed to supply a relay, which then switches on LED bar from a more powerful source at the fuse box, or battery + terminal.

Thanks Nodge68 - Yes the plan is to pick up a feed either from the engine compartment fuse box or battery with an inline fuse.

My Powerfull UK DRLs are fed from a spare fuse position in the fuse box, but I took a feed off the side light circuit, and indicators on each side, which was easily done with Scotchlock connectors.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I already have DRLs as standard (HSE Lux). It is additional long range driving lights that I am hoping to fit. Thanks.

I would be interested to see how you go with this. Having spoke to the guys at Lazer Lamps, they said I would need a CANbus Interface for mine (13MY HSE LUX).

I'll have to keep an eye out for you in the Forest - my vehicle would be nearly identical to yours - 64 plate Metropolis.
I'm in the Forest at least twice a week.

A bit more info chaps.

It isn't going to be as easy as I first thought.

I managed to find a 2014 wiring diagram with HID headlights and the shutter motor is fed from a Field Effect Transistor (FET) via pin 10 of the headlight connector (I haven't verified the pin number yet).

The problem is that, doing a bit more research, you can't just tap into that wire and connect to a relay as it has all sorts of odd effects including, so I gather, back emf spikes which could damage the FET when the relay switches off. This can be fixed with a diode but so far I have only found theoretical circuit info, nothing specific to this particular issue so, unless I can find details of a working setup, I will not attempt any experimentation at the moment.

As before, if anyone has succesfully acheived this then details would be gratefully received otherwise I will feedback any info I can find as and when.

Thanks for the comments so far and fingers crossed!

You may need to take your trigger upstream of the FET - somewhere behind the dash where the lighting switch loom is - or engine bay side if you can trace it through using the wiring diagrams you have. Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

The other alternative is taking a signal from the high beam indicator lamp in the IC, it may be easier/safer depending upon its supply. Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

NoDo$h wrote:

You may need to take your trigger upstream of the FET - somewhere behind the dash where the lighting switch loom is - or engine bay side if you can trace it through using the wiring diagrams you have.

Doh! Didn’t read your post before a I posted mine But same idea I guess. Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Thanks for the latest comments. Set me thinking!

According to the wiring diagram the FETs are connected directly to the body control module which in turn connects to the steering wheel module via a CANBUS but it might be possible to tap directly into the main/dipped beam switch on the steering column but I like the idea of investigating the main beam warning light possibility. Just need to find the wiring diagram for the instrument cluster now!

Cheers.