Hello darkness my old friend.

First off I fixed the rear passenger door. It was an arse to do and I never want to do it again.

So today I went at the throttle body for the above mentioned problem. Starts fine, sometimes a rough idle, but at some point in the drive it starts to really struggle when accelerating up to 1500rpm. And when I say struggle, I mean it literally won't drive forward on an incline if I happen to stop on one.

I figured it was the EGR either stuck open or closed as it's not throwing codes and there's no check engine light on. I got the throttle body off first to look inside and realised there's no sensor inside. Is that normal on an SD4?

I can't see anything to connect the temperature sensor to either, so if I bought one I wouldn't know where to plug it in to. Someone put my mind at ease and tell me SD4 don't have them.

Anyway, I've got an EGR valve on order so if the motor is burnt out hopefully that will be the end of it.

In other news, I stuck on some wind deflectors in the wrong place and then had to rip them off. I am an idiot. Landrover Freelander 2 Sport
SD4 Auto
2011

Not all vehicles had an air temperature sensor, so don't worry about that. It's not needed for a diesel to function, and the ECM is simply mapped without using the temperature data directly, but works it out from the data from other sensors.

The EGR valve will need to be calibrated for it to function correctly, so it's not a simple swap component. Actually any changes to the air path components requires an air path calibration be carried out, in order for the ECM to be able to run the engine correctly. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
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1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Yeah I was reading about that last night - I had assumed you could just swap them out. For anyone else reading this, they stopped putting the temp sensor in around 2011 or so.

However, I found someone who had a similar problem who had a non-original fuel filter. I'm going to get a Purflux one and see if that rectifies the issue.

I'm totally stumped otherwise. Landrover Freelander 2 Sport
SD4 Auto
2011

Have you found an answer yet? (EGR?)

I have experienced this 4 or 5 times over the last few weeks, although it only lasts for seconds, and my SD4 has driven perfectly alright for hundreds of miles between episodes.

As you say it happens only at very low rpm on light throttle as I pull away.

I cannot see any codes or messages recorded, and have noticed no changes in performance before or after the events.

It's feels odd, I just ease throttle and I get a 'Computer says NO' moment.

No work has been carried out at all on the car except regular Dealer Services. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Mass air flow sensor possibly?

Found this which includes an entry from Degsy

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36011.html?highlight=air+mass

and a very a good link from Dorset----

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16502-15.html

I am reading through the vast amount of info provided but so far, apart from the fact it has caused a lot of problems in the past, I haven't got a real answer.

The dealers so far have been concentrating on EGR, Turbo, Gearbox, Software, and Haldex?, although I haven't spotted a successful fix --so far -- although I am still carefully wading through the info provided. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

So, I have solved it (I think).

Car ran awfully the other day when it was low on fuel. It was also temperature related- ran awful when hot (stop start traffic, or stopping after long drives).

Purflux fuel filter change seems to have resolved the issue but time will tell. The car does respond far quicker to acceleration, and the reverse gear is more powerful. It also doesn't shake when climbing hills as it did. I'm convinced it was a fuelling issue and the fuel filter was the first thing to change. Landrover Freelander 2 Sport
SD4 Auto
2011

Hi there. Sorry for reviving the old thread. Did the new filter sort your issues?
Mine started with struggling to reverse, then some shaking started at load on low speeds and now it's almost inlinp mode until the turbo kicks in, then it takes off like a rocket...

Do you have a genuine JLR fuel filter? as the non genuine ones (apart from Coopers and Bosch) have some internal parts missing. 2013 FL2 XS.
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I do have one yes. But I installed it 30 000km ago.

The reason I didn't change it, was because the service team at Land Rover told me they last 135 000km...

The fuel filter did solve all the issues. It's a Purflux filter which are the original filters used by LR. Landrover Freelander 2 Sport
SD4 Auto
2011

Amazing. Thanks!!!

Similar issue with mine, some dubious filter fitted. Couldnt get hold of a purflux filter so took a chance and fitted a MANN filter. Car has been fine for the last 2 1/2 weeks. No loss of power / limp mode symptoms, happy chap.

I bought a Bosch filter and it was impossible to get the last pipe in without wrecking the o ring. Went to Watt Bros Wishaw and got a Mann filter and no hesitation ever after. Just replaced it with another Mann filter and it comes with blanking plugs to help with the s**t job of replacing it in

a s**t design location. No hesitation and the car is just the best car ever had in modern times.

That will be because the engine is fitted with the fuel filter installed and Ford designers never envisage anyone changing anything. Designers and service engineers don’t talk to each other and accountants ignore everyone for the sake of saving a cent.