Hi all
I'm having a problem with my Freelander 2 TD4 GS 57 reg.
The Problem:
It went into Reduced Performance Mode (RPM) on the motorway a couple of weeks ago. It hasn't started since. Roadside recovery guy said there was no fuel from the filter to the pump Showing n the clear pipes. Codes were cleared to see if that sorted anything out but it didn't.
What I've Done So Far:
I changed the fuel filter and re-primed the system with a hand primer. Still no start. I undid some of the unions coming off the rail and no fuel coming out. Also released what I think is the fuel return pipe from the rail under control and no fuel. I got a code reader and checked the data for the fuel rail pressure. It fluctuated between 0 and 240 kpa. I changed the fuel pressure sensor and checked the data again which now showed a fluctuation ranging between 10290-10350 kpa. I also checked the fuel regulator sensor at the other end of the fuel rail. when connected to a battery it appears to operate correctly, ie: audible click and I can see the spring inside operate. However, still no fuel from the injector unions but fuel did spurt out under pressure from the run-off pipe. I've tried rebleeding the system but there are air bubbles in the pipes from the filter to the pump. These air bubbles remain in the same place when I crank the engine. Hand priming doesn't move them either. That don't move as I think they would if the pump was sucking fuel through.

So, a couple of questions before I start taking the fuel pump off to check it:
1. Is there anything else that I've missed that might solve the problem?
2. How do you purge the fuel lines between filter and pump or do they self purge if the pump is working?

I've tried to attach some photos of what I believe is the fuel rail run-off pipe I mentioned where pressurised fuel came out of and of the air bubbles in the lines.
Any help appreciated. I've looked through other fuel-related threads but can't find anything with the same issue.
It's annoying as it'd been off the road for a couple of months whilst I sorted out a PTU problem that I posted about in here. It was only back on the road for two days then this! I swear this car is cursed or just hates me!

JLR's method of purging is to suck the fuel up from the tank and push it through the fuel filter and all the way up to the HP pump and back down to the tank using a rubber ball type hand pump. Its all in their manual.

You can get HP pump failure as its driven by one of the camshafts and the connection can break but then you'd have no fuel pressure, Id have thought. Jules

Hi Jules
Here we are again! Same forum, different thread and different problem!! 🤣
I've got the ball type hand pump which I used to bleed the system. It just gets to the point where the ball goes firm and you can hardly pump it but the air bubbles don't move. I wasn't sure if there was something else I'd need to disconnect further upstream to allow the air out but I suppose it would just expel when it reaches the tank.
I just found it odd that fuel came out of the pipe I circled in the photo but didn't come out of the loosened unions at the injectors.
I'll give it another go next week. I just didn't want to start taking the pump off if there was something else I could try first, although my gut says it's probably the pump. It'd be just my luck as it's the more expensive outcome!!!
Cheers

Did you fit a genuine LR filter? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

I'm not sure what make it was tbf but I doubt it's genuine Land Rover as it was only about £20 and I imagine Genuine parts will be much more expensive.

There have been various issues with non genuine fuel filters, genuine one's have a thermostat where as non genuine ones don't amongst other things. I would think it might be worth try with a genuine one?? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Ah. Roger that.
I'll have a look for one and try it. Cheers.

Fuel filter around £36 (LR one).

Found one for £37.50 plus postage. Cheapest I could find. Cheers

PK1968 wrote:

Hi Jules
Here we are again! Same forum, different thread and different problem!! 🤣
I've got the ball type hand pump which I used to bleed the system. It just gets to the point where the ball goes firm and you can hardly pump it but the air bubbles don't move. I wasn't sure if there was something else I'd need to disconnect further upstream to allow the air out but I suppose it would just expel when it reaches the tank.
I just found it odd that fuel came out of the pipe I circled in the photo but didn't come out of the loosened unions at the injectors.
I'll give it another go next week. I just didn't want to start taking the pump off if there was something else I could try first, although my gut says it's probably the pump. It'd be just my luck as it's the more expensive outcome!!!
Cheers

PK1968 wrote:

I changed the fuel pressure sensor and checked the data again which now showed a fluctuation ranging between 10290-10350 kpa.

Hi
Yeah, I put the hand pump on the line running from the tank to the filter intake.
The initial codes were cleared at the roadside to try and clear the fault. It hasn't run since. I'm sure one of the codes at roadside was P0087 Furl Rail Pressure - Too Low. The only error code that's appeared since the initial codes were cleared is P0088 Fuel Rail Pressure - Too high. Although I can't remember now at what stage that showed, whether it was before of after fitting the new sensor.
Would air in the system cause problems with the sensors?
Nuts and bolts stuff I can kind of figure out. All the electrical jiggery-pokery and sensors are a bit of a black art to me.

"It went into Reduced Performance Mode (RPM) on the motorway a couple of weeks ago."

Did it drive home in RPM or just cut out ? Jules

I pulled off the motorway and stopped the engine. It wouldn't start again so had to be recovered.

Have a look at the camshaft to hp fuel pump coupling. Early engines were prone to the camshaft failing at this point. That will give you low fuel rail pressures no matter how well you’ve bled the fuel lines!