Hi Jules
I've started going through it. In fact, I was pretty much on it all day yesterday til about 9pm last night with a break to walk the dogs!

So far:
Fuel pump off
Starter motor off
Drive belt off
Flywheel off
Timing belt off
Fuel rail, injectors, wiring off
Fuel filter, housing and mount off
Oil separator off
Intake manifold off-ish

Doesn't sound a lot when you write it down but there's all sorts of other niff-naff had to be done to get to this stage. Plus, some very finicky, difficult to get at bits. A couple of the injectors were a right pain and held me up also!

The Haynes hasn't been too bad, it's just a lot of jumping from one section to another and back again. Biggest nause is that something's they explain in quite good detail. Others they kind of glance over. The mounting bracket for the fuel filter was an example. It just says remove it but doesn't go into how many bolts and locations etc. One of them is buried deep out of the way out of sight behind some piping. It also mentions 8 bolts for the intake manifold but I can only find 7 and looking at pics online it only looks like it has 7!

Been in work today but going to crack on for another couple of hours this evening.

I just need you to tell me that I didn't have to take all that stuff off now!!!!!
I didn't realise there were so many bloody bits attached to these things!!!!! Just hope I can re-read it backwards and out it back together right!!!! 🤣

What are you trying to access to remove all that? 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Exhaust camshaft!
It's now telling me to take the wipers and scuttle panel off to remove the EGR cooler which is another section of 14 paragraphs!!!!

Is it possible to undo the 4 retaining nuts and bolts and move the EGR cooler out of the way without disconnecting all the pipes, etc from it and removing it completely?

Not sure why you would need to remove the egr cooler to get at the exhaust camshaft as all the EGR stuff is down the back of the engine (but Ive never messed with the camshafts on these engines).
But this a pipe from EGR valve to inlet manifold that passes over the top of the engine. Jules

The EGR cooler is attached to the cam cover by 2 nuts and a bolt. The nuts appear to be on threaded shafts coming off the cam cover. There's a 4th nut at the bottom of the EGR cooler right at the back of the engine. This needs to come off too I think so you can slide the cooler off the threaded shafts. And it's an absolute pain to get to it!!! But I'd rather not have to strip everything off the cooler if there's no need to. So was wondering if it was possible that it might slide off?

Hi again. Just an update.
In answer to my own question, yes. You can undo the EGR cooler without stripping everything off it. It's tricky but the key to it is you have to remove the two threaded studs on the cam cover otherwise it won't clear them in order to lift the cover off. Looking from the front of the car there is a stud top back left of the cam cover. The end of it is hex head so it can be removed. Can't remember the size but it's small, possibly a 5mm. The other stud which is longer has a starred, torx end to it. I think the size was either E5 or E6. Once they're off you can manage to get the cover off.
The nut holding the bottom of the cooler in place is really difficult to get to. It's towards the lower, rear right of the cooler next to an electrical connector. I used a small, telescopic inspection mirror with lights on it to guide me. It's a 10mm nut but mine was a bit rusty and was already rounded so I needed a grab socket to get it off. Dreading trying to put the new one back on!!!!
I only found one broken bit from the end of the cam. It had gone into the oilway which sits "conveniently just below where it would have broken!!! I put a telescopic magnet into it to see if there were any more bits but it seemed clear. I'll have to take the sump off to check in there. I'm hoping that oil passage goes directly back into the sump but I'm not sure about the intervals of the engine.
So, I'm in a position to start cleaning and sticking it all back together............if I can remember how!!!!

Well done for working out the upper EGR fixing are treaded with a torx drive on the end, which allows them to be removed.
These engines aren't too bad to work on, once you know how they go together.

Hopefully the missing chunk of camshaft doesn't get on top of the balancer shaft assembly or drive gear, as the tolerances there are tight. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

It's official! Thus car hates me!!!
Ben trying to take the sump off this morning to see if there are any bits of the camshaft in there. Took all the bolts out. Damn thing won't budge. Tried wedging against it. Tried wooden block and mallet with quite some force. Hasn't budged one bit. It's well and truly glued to the block!! Don't want to end up damaging the thing but I need to know if I can retrieve any other bits. This is getting so frustrating now. What should be the simplest of jobs are taking up so much valuable time with this.
I could get it all back together and it pile in again because of bits from the camshaft! Its really getting end of tether time!

The sealer is very difficult to remove, and you also need the correct sealer to refit it (it's called Three Bond) or it'll leak. I use a putty blade and tap it round the joint with a soft hammer. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

They're great these newer cars! My old 38 year old 90 is held together with electrical tape, bits of wire and a plucky attitude!!!! 🤣
I've ordered some of that Three Bond and I'll have a crack at it again tomorrow after work. Bloody thing just hadn't budged one bit. Just hope there are bits of camshaft in there if I get it off!!!!
On another note regarding the EGR cooler. I managed to locate the lower fastener which I lost down the back of the engine as I was taking it off. It turns out that it's a bolt that needs an Allen key to remove it!!!!! When I was trying to see it using a mirror and torch it looked like a nut in a threaded stud oddly enough! Also, you don't necessarily need to take it all the way out as it just clamps the cooler. Just undo it a few turns and the cooler should lift over it to clear it.

Well done PK - It really is a PITA sort of job. Why they use so many different bolts and nuts for the EGR cooler beats - the allan key was a sod - I had to cut one and put a small socket on the end.
Pretty much impossible without a mirror, lots of patience and tea.  Jules

PK1968 wrote:

They're great these newer cars! My old 38 year old 90 is held together with electrical tape, bits of wire and a plucky attitude!!!! 🤣
I've ordered some of that Three Bond and I'll have a crack at it again tomorrow after work. Bloody thing just hadn't budged one bit. Just hope there are bits of camshaft in there if I get it off!!!!

Just a warning about Three Bond. It's extremely toxic stuff (although I've not died yet), so don't get it on your skin, eyes, mouth or even breathe the fumes. I wasn't at all careful, as I didn't read the COSH sheet until after I'd used it. Best to play safe though.  2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Nodge: Cheers for the heads up on the Three Bond. I must admit to being a little cavalier myself when it comes to my own H&S!!!!

Jules: Cheers. I fund it easier getting that bolt on than taking it off but I suppose much of that was down to not being able to identify exactly what it was. With all the gunge that was on it and the bad lighting coupled with my ever degrading eyesight I could have sworn it was a nut on a threaded stud. Hey-ho. It's back in now along with the new cam, cam cover, vacuum pump and part way through refitting the oil separator. Seems to be going back together quicker than it came apart tbf. Just the bleedin oil sump to sort!!!!

Cheers all.