Hi guys & gals.
I'm sorry if this might of already been covered before - but can't seem to find the answers I require already on here.

I have an FL2 (2007) XS-Spec - and I wish to fit a Detachable Towbar to it - mainly for the purposes of fitting on an 'adhoc' basis a 4-bicycle carrier. But there seems such a range of both towbars out there, and the cycle carriers for that matter.

For starters am I correct in thinking that the electrics for a towbar are already inplace to sockets within the under-boot space? Is that a given regardless of GS / XS / HSE spec etc?

Also some of the towbars that I have been looking at refer to having to use a 'bypass unit' and 'splicing-in' the cables? But if connectors are already there?

Any advise would be much appreciated.

Regards, John

Dedicated wiring harnesses such as this:
https://www.pfjones.co.uk/towbar-wiring-ki...-kits.html

Will plug into the car's loom using connectors already there. No cutting or splicing of cables required. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Yes Bob's correct, I have a Witter that I had fitted when I bought my FL2 . Great piece of kit, takes seconds to fit the hitch and the same to remove it.  MY 2013 SD GS Auto

notwen wrote:

For starters am I correct in thinking that the electrics for a towbar are already inplace to sockets within the under-boot space? Is that a given regardless of GS / XS / HSE spec etc?

If the tow bar is only to carry a bike and not a trailer, then it's not essential you visit a dealer to have towing functions activated.
All the regulatory lighting is plug n play with the LR harness and ECM.
Additionally towing functions like trailer sway mitigation, reverse sensor deactivation, and fog light deactivation require a 10 minute programming session using SDD either at a dealer, or some other specialist able to carry out the programming.
I use my tow bar mounted bike carrier more often than I use our trailer. The FL2 has a 150kg download capacity on the tow bar, which makes it ideal for carrying bikes safely.

Click image to enlarge

Hi Nodge. Thanks for your reply. Yes, for me too it would be mainly fitted for attaching a cycle carrier. (Although would be useful to possible use with a trailer later on). What's the difference with the 7-pin and 13-pin electrics? Is the 13-pin for caravans.
Regards the actual tow hitches. I've been looking at various on fleebay/www etc. Theres's a Witter one looks good - offered by PFJones. They claim that bumper removal is not needed to fit? ..and how about any cut-outs for the tow hitch in lower bumper?

Bobupndown wrote:

Dedicated wiring harnesses such as this:
https://www.pfjones.co.uk/towbar-wiring-ki...-kits.html

Will plug into the car's loom using connectors already there. No cutting or splicing of cables required.

Nodge68 wrote:

I use my tow bar mounted bike carrier more often than I use our trailer. The FL2 has a 150kg download capacity on the tow bar

Presumably you can't exceed the manufacturers specifications, regardless of local regulations?
But yes the Freelander is built to take considerable load on the tow bar.  2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

350kg is for the Freelander.

Nose weight - Australia only 350kg, there a few conditions but the point is it is a well built car.



You also need to make sure the actual towbar has the correct rating as well. Some are a bit on the light side. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Last edited by Lightwater on 27th Aug 2022 7:53 am. Edited 1 time in total

notwen wrote:

Bobupndown wrote:

Dedicated wiring harnesses such as this:
https://www.pfjones.co.uk/towbar-wiring-ki...-kits.html

Will plug into the car's loom using connectors already there. No cutting or splicing of cables required.

Hi Bob, Thanks for your reply.
The kit PFJones are offering me doesn't seem to refer to what you describe. I'll have to ask. But also in the fitting instructions that they kindly sent me, it doesnt refer to having to remove the rear bumper (which other make Youtube videos did), and any cut-outs to be made in the bumper?
What's your experience?
Regards, John

This is the P F Jones cable harness fitted to a 2008 FL2. It just plugs in



As Jules says, no need to remove the bumper - just the left hand reflector - and no bumper cuts required.

notwen wrote:

Bobupndown wrote:

Dedicated wiring harnesses such as this:
https://www.pfjones.co.uk/towbar-wiring-ki...-kits.html

Will plug into the car's loom using connectors already there. No cutting or splicing of cables required.

Hi Bob, Thanks for your reply.
The kit PFJones are offering me doesn't seem to refer to what you describe. I'll have to ask. But also in the fitting instructions that they kindly sent me, it doesnt refer to having to remove the rear bumper (which other make Youtube videos did), and any cut-outs to be made in the bumper?
What's your experience?
Regards, John

Hi guys.
Okay abit of an update from me on this.
In the end I went for the Witter Towbar - which was a doddle to fit....no bumper removal etc. And it came with an FL2 dedicated wiring loom which was also very easy to fit. Grey multi-pole connector that connects into corresponding grey connector in boot space of the FL2, and the loom has a black 'module' already connected with it.
But no trailer lights/functions work?
Any ideas?
I did note that in the bootspace fuse box on my car there was now fuse in FA9 - so a fitted one, and still nothing.
The fusebox lid also indicates a fuse position FA11 (40A) - but this is also vacant. Looks like its a style of fuse I'm not familiar with - i.e. bigger, more like a relay socket.
Is it possible it's just this bigger fuse that's preventing the trailer electrics from working?

Or is it, as I've read on other topics, that I need to take the car to a dealer to have trailer electrics programmed 'on'?

I have a MY13 car so totally different electrics. But the primary fuses should be 60 amps. Run a new cable from there.

Better still run a new cable from the battery via a relay from an accessory circuit to trigger relay power. Then you can have 100 amps or more if needed. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18