Evening

I’m about to replace the rear shocks on my 2010 freelander
Is there any reason to replace the springs at the same time
They aren’t Brocken or rusty
Anything else , bolts etc I should order
Thanks

The job could be easy and no problem dependant on wear/corrosion etc..

I replaced the rear shocks on our 2012 FL2.. the bolts that clamp the hubs to the shock absorbers sheared and so it’s worth ordering a new pair..
The bolt on top of the shock absorbers holding the top mount also seized and needed drilling off… but our car is used in the UK where in winter the roads are heavily salted and thus corrosion takes place on all components..

So if I was doing the job again I would buy new shocks, springs, top mounts and bolts..

Thanks
I think I will pop the wheel and inner boot panels off and take a better look before I order
Roads aren’t heavily salted here
But knowing my luck

While you’re having a look why not spray nuts you are going to undo with penetrating oil so that it can soak in. Avoid the brake surfaces and friction materials obviously.

Markduc wrote:

Thanks
I think I will pop the wheel and inner boot panels off and take a better look before I order
Roads aren’t heavily salted here
But knowing my luck

Thanks for the tips
Have had a look and all looks pretty clean but sprayed some penatrating oil on lower bolts anyway
Has anyone used meyle shocks ?
They seem to get good reviews on other makes of car and are a few bob cheaper than oem shocks

I used OE (from AF), as they lasted 12 years, so figured why scrimp on a few £, when it's 4 hours work to change them.
Most other shocks are simply re-boxed Chinese offerings, which I wasn't prepared to take a chance with. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Hi. Can anyone help with some part codes for the shock absorber - front and rear. Thank you

Rear Right Hand LR031668
Rear left Hand LR031666
Front Right Hand LR031667
Front Left Hand LR031665


These are the genuine codes but do check them

& while you are at it & have the boot trim panels off it is a simple task of adding some acoustic insulation. Kill 2 birds with one stone.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33026-24.html Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I recently installed Bilstein B4 shocks... slightly firmer than OEM. I like the feel, and so does my wife.

B6 would be even firmer.

I Like Chips wrote:

Rear Right Hand LR031668
Rear left Hand LR031666
Front Right Hand LR031667
Front Left Hand LR031665


These are the genuine codes but do check them

In the end I ordered a pair of Bilstein B4 OEM shocks.

£157 delivered.

Some people use a chisel or special device to expand the knuckle joint.
I found that after cleaning the pinch bolt hole thread with a tap and inserting a steel plate into the gap, I could use a M12 bolt to expand the knuckle and remove the strut assembly.





 Jules

Nodge68 wrote:

Make sure you mark the fitted position of the top mounts, as they're deliberately in over size holes, so the tops can be adjusted to set the suspension geometry.
Marking the fitted position means you can refit them in the same place they were removed.

The rear suspension top mount does effect the geometry by a few degrees. It's possible to alter the camber and caster by the top mount, so it's important that the fitted position is marked so the top mount can be fitted in the same position. How much it actually makes a difference I don't know, but I always mark them for refitting in the same place.

Not all vehicles have any adjustment at the top, but later Ford based strut suspension vehicles do. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.