Busy day today.
The ramps on the farm next door are back in action so I thought I'd make good use of them.
Haldex off, filter & oil change plus motor mesh screen cleaned. Then PTU and rear diff oils changed.

Here are a few pics someone might find useful - not a full run through - thats been done.

Unbolted propshaft supports


Removed front rear diff isolator bolts to allow haldex to tip forward


Used 3 M8 bolts to push propshaft flange out of haldex flange


Simple tool to hold harmonic damper/flange whilst undoing central nut


Filter pulled out


Motor removed and mesh screen cleaned (This had done 50K miles)


Why does this website rotate my images ? Jules

No idea, does it randomly!
That pump screen was pretty much blocked with crud. Mine was a little less so the first time I did mine at 65k miles, after a further 25k it wasn't nearly as bad. No wonder so many diffs and haldex units fail if unsuspecting owners think their full LR service history means their cars are in perfect fettle. How much money did they really save by not including a drain plug in those 3 units? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I did my Haldex about 10k miles ago but now coming up for gearbox diff and PTU oil change.
What is the best way to extract the oil from the PTU without going to the trouble of fitting a drain plug?? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

well done jules the ramps make it even easier than blocks of wood ramps , the pump looks as bad as my wifes freelander at 45000 miles  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Rommel wrote:

I did my Haldex about 10k miles ago but now coming up for gearbox diff and PTU oil change.
What is the best way to extract the oil from the PTU without going to the trouble of fitting a drain plug??

Yes of course but I am a little scared of getting swarf in the PTU when drilling ! 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Rommel wrote:

What is the best way to extract the oil from the PTU without going to the trouble of fitting a drain plug??

I used a Pela suction pump.



The pump's own tube wont go inside (too stiff) so you have to find a length of tubing narrow enough but stiff enough to get in the through the fill hole and down to the bottom of the PTU and attach to the pump's tube. I'm sure I didnt get all the oil out as I only needed about 450ml before the fill level was reached (and then removed 120ml).

Drilling out a drain hole would ensure better drainage but you would need to take it slowly, withdrawing the bit frequently to clear swarf and heavily grease the bit to get swarf to stick to it. Jules

Thank you @Jules,

The guck on the screen (the second time around) was unexpected.
I wonder if we would be ahead by considering a different fluid?? Or is this just the nature of this clutch centric system?? Guy Pensa
Cars with Personalities
Getting itchy. What's next?
2014 Land Rover HSE Lux (blend of practicality and aggressiveness)
2007 XKR (Jaguar Racing Green) (woo hoo!)
2004 XJR (Jaguar Racing Green) (deceased)
2002 S-Type R (British Racing Green, of course)
1951 Riley RMD (Black, time for that restoration)

Rommel wrote:

Yes of course but I am a little scared of getting swarf in the PTU when drilling !

Assume normal cordless drill is too big to get in there? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

'Linear' controlled angle drill is the only way to go if you want the drill/tap level. Quite a few post here that chronicle a few members' drilling and tapping the PTU including my job. I can't remember but I believe I used an M10 but an 8 is a much better fit.

Bobupndown wrote:

Assume normal cordless drill is too big to get in there?

Had Haldex and rear diff serviced and oil changes by a local garage a few weeks ago and now I’ve got the juddering of back wheels on fulll lock whilst reversing. I know the garage owner quite well so I’ll aski him if he removed the 70 ml procedure. He showed mi pics of the cleaned Haldex. Can not removing the 70 ml lead to juddering on full lock reverse do you think ? Had the Haldex serviced by lr indie 30000 miles ago and didn’t get all of this

Apparently not removing the 70ml of oil won’t make any difference. Dont think I’ll be reversing too much on full lock in the future. Time to consider getting rid I think and get a cheap runabout

……. Or might have to arrange a visit to Austen. Took back to local garage who removed the 70 ml oil. Seemed to work initially but juddering again next day . He took the pump off again to check it and was still clean