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Nbuuifx



Member Since: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 167

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Stornoway Grey
Jacking the rear end

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...acking.pdf

I was using the above guide to know where to put the trolley jack which is extremely useful. Thank you to whoever put that on here!

The front lifted absolutely fine from the centre point which was great.

However the rear lifting point on the rear diff is too small for the head of the 3ton SGS Jack that I have. Is any other point around there suitable?

Can you lift further back on the main diff housing?

Can you lift slightly further forward on the bridge type bit that goes over the end of the diff/beginning of the Haldex unit?

Post #416531 1st Jan 2022 2:05 am
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gasman



Member Since: 02 May 2013
Location: Tyneside
Posts: 856

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Zermatt Silver

You don't jack up on the diff.
As you say there is an aluminium piece that straddles the diff and haldex, that is your jacking point.
Look very closely at your diagram and you will see it. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Post #416536 1st Jan 2022 9:48 am
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sadler32



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 74

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Bali Blue

Photo borrowed from another thread.


Click image to enlarge

Post #416538 1st Jan 2022 10:23 am
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1766

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

I'd use the bottom of the rear subframe, rather than the diff cross member. It's only made of light aluminium, which while it looks strong, isn't something I'd trust.

I lift the rear of the Freelander 2 from then rear cross member, then put stands under the sill jacking points for supporting the vehicle, and an additional pair of stands on the chassis rails, each side of the rear exhaust box, if I'm doing to be pulling the vehicle about while shifting tight suspension bolts.. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. My daily driver.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Post #416543 1st Jan 2022 11:32 am
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Nbuuifx



Member Since: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 167

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Stornoway Grey



That image looks to show it before the aluminium piece. The aluminium piece looks to be under the arrow. The blue dot looks to be on the end of the diff casing.


Click image to enlarge


The blue circle I've drawn on here is where it looks to be in the diagram. You can see the circular hole on the diagram and the photo in line with it.

The red circle is where I want to Jack from as the head of the Jack won't fit anywhere else.

Is the red circle the correct place then?
[/img]

Post #416547 1st Jan 2022 1:21 pm
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shiggsy



Member Since: 13 Jan 2013
Location: Kent
Posts: 789

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Baltic Blue

Have to say I have always used the same spot as Nbuuifx (blue circle), which is exactly where the LR Diagram indicates. However the LR description does say to use the "Differential Support Bracket" (red circle), which is what gasman mentions.

That bracket just doesn't look like it was ever designed to be a suitable jacking point though. After I jack the vehicle I immediately lower it onto axle stands, so its never on that point for long. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.


Last edited by shiggsy on 1st Jan 2022 8:07 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #416549 1st Jan 2022 1:57 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 4517

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Interesting
On the few occasions when I've raised the FL2 from the centre I've jacked the rear on the cross member as its low and has a flat surface and more likely, I thought, to be attached to something solid on the chassis.
I didn't realise the JLR manual's description and diagram were at odds with each other.


I've since checked in my Haynes; wasn't expecting anything useful and wasn't disappointed - couldn't find anything on jacking points.
Owners manual no use either. Jules

Post #416555 1st Jan 2022 5:36 pm
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Nbuuifx



Member Since: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 167

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Stornoway Grey

Click image to enlarge


Well I jacked it up where the red circle is. Lifted easy, no sign of anything getting damaged and the Freelander was nice and steady with both rear wheels up.

Post #416561 1st Jan 2022 7:52 pm
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merlinj79



Member Since: 13 Aug 2019
Location: San Diego
Posts: 313

United States 2008 LR2 i6 S Auto Tambora Flame

I've used the red circle (cross member) position for years, I'm fairly certain that's what JLR intended as stated in the text. I think the diagram is jacked (pun intended).

The arch shape and webbing implies very high structural load capacity, my gut feel is happy with that. My gut is not happy with jacking an aluminum diff case.


I also use white spray paint to mark the jacking positions on my cars, so I don't have to look it up in the future.

Post #416585 2nd Jan 2022 4:17 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 4517

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

I did the same with yellow spray paint Laughing Jules

Post #416588 2nd Jan 2022 5:40 pm
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MRRover75



Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 316

Norway 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Tambora Flame

I Put a piece of 4"x4" wood between the jack and the rear subframe (between the muffler and diff). Works superb.

Post #416613 3rd Jan 2022 1:26 pm
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