https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...acking.pdf

I was using the above guide to know where to put the trolley jack which is extremely useful. Thank you to whoever put that on here!

The front lifted absolutely fine from the centre point which was great.

However the rear lifting point on the rear diff is too small for the head of the 3ton SGS Jack that I have. Is any other point around there suitable?

Can you lift further back on the main diff housing?

Can you lift slightly further forward on the bridge type bit that goes over the end of the diff/beginning of the Haldex unit?

You don't jack up on the diff.
As you say there is an aluminium piece that straddles the diff and haldex, that is your jacking point.
Look very closely at your diagram and you will see it. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Photo borrowed from another thread.

Click image to enlarge

I'd use the bottom of the rear subframe, rather than the diff cross member. It's only made of light aluminium, which while it looks strong, isn't something I'd trust.

I lift the rear of the Freelander 2 from then rear cross member, then put stands under the sill jacking points for supporting the vehicle, and an additional pair of stands on the chassis rails, each side of the rear exhaust box, if I'm doing to be pulling the vehicle about while shifting tight suspension bolts.. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

That image looks to show it before the aluminium piece. The aluminium piece looks to be under the arrow. The blue dot looks to be on the end of the diff casing.

Click image to enlarge

Have to say I have always used the same spot as Nbuuifx (blue circle), which is exactly where the LR Diagram indicates. However the LR description does say to use the "Differential Support Bracket" (red circle), which is what gasman mentions.

That bracket just doesn't look like it was ever designed to be a suitable jacking point though. After I jack the vehicle I immediately lower it onto axle stands, so its never on that point for long. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Last edited by shiggsy on 1st Jan 2022 9:07 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Interesting
On the few occasions when I've raised the FL2 from the centre I've jacked the rear on the cross member as its low and has a flat surface and more likely, I thought, to be attached to something solid on the chassis.
I didn't realise the JLR manual's description and diagram were at odds with each other.


I've since checked in my Haynes; wasn't expecting anything useful and wasn't disappointed - couldn't find anything on jacking points.
Owners manual no use either. Jules

I've used the red circle (cross member) position for years, I'm fairly certain that's what JLR intended as stated in the text. I think the diagram is jacked (pun intended).

The arch shape and webbing implies very high structural load capacity, my gut feel is happy with that. My gut is not happy with jacking an aluminum diff case.


I also use white spray paint to mark the jacking positions on my cars, so I don't have to look it up in the future.

I did the same with yellow spray paint  Jules

I Put a piece of 4"x4" wood between the jack and the rear subframe (between the muffler and diff). Works superb.