So JLR say replace all flexible brake hoses at six year intervals, is this really neccassary? I have looked at mine and they appear new, no bulging or other signs of deterioration 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Yep that's normal for JLR. Not needed, but keeps the cash rolling in

Theoretically all rubber brake components deteriorate with age, so are best replaced.
Brakes are the single most important item on a vehicle, so why skimp on them. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.

I did mine at 11 years and 122K miles. The old ones seemed fine, no apparent deterioration.

Can you get braided hose's? Common sense isn't very common.
_______________________________
2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

YES this is what I was going to fit but after I looked at mine and saw they looked OK left the existing ones on at least for the time being, available on Ebay as a set.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283118150287?fi...SwxfhbfTOP 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Yep, I fitted those exact braided hoses; good price and great fit. You can also get them slightly longer if you are ever going for more ground clearance in the future.

axle wrote:

Can you get braided hose's?

Yes indeed.
This week I replaced my front disks and added 4 braided hoses at the same time.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392463368676?ha...SwfJ5dR~bc





Unfortunately two of the brake pipe to flexible hose connectors had seized and despite WD40 they twisted the end of the pipes off. New pipes from JLR were £70 but fitted perfectly (all pre-bent etc) but getting the front one in behind the engine required the bulkhead to be removed etc.
All this had to come off...

Looking down the back of the engine ...
 Jules

Thats a lot of parts to remove for a brake pipe , I covered my joints in waxoyl when I first got my Vehicle over four years ago so I hope I dont have that problem when I do eventually change the hoses. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

WD40 is really a lubricant/water dispersant rather than a penetrating fluid or release agent whatever the advertising says.

Ok it wasnt really WD40 but some form of penetrating oil - I just couldnt remember the name and put in WD40  Jules

Rommel wrote:

Thats a lot of parts to remove for a brake pipe , I covered my joints in waxoyl when I first got my Vehicle over four years ago so I hope I dont have that problem when I do eventually change the hoses.

Rommel wrote:

Thats a lot of parts to remove for a brake pipe , I covered my joints in waxoyl when I first got my Vehicle over four years ago so I hope I dont have that problem when I do eventually change the hoses.

Yes. The rear pipe was easy to replace but getting down to that connector in the scuttle was awkward. I had to climb up and
kneel on top of the engine.
I really needed smaller hands and longer arms with an extra joint  Jules

As long as the remaining pipe is OK. It is possible to just plumb in an extension to the existing pipe. Depends on where the twist is of course

I thought of that - it was only the end the pipe as it turns into the wheel arch that snapped off.
I have some copper brake pipe and can borrow a flaring tool. But there aws no way I could get the flaring tool inside the engine bay. So Id have to dismantle everything to get the old pipe out anyway to put an extra joint in. So thought s0d it - get a new made up pipe. Jules