My Freelander 2014 SD4 auto HSE is going into an independent Land Rover garage next week. Its having Haldex service auto gearbox fluid change PTU & rear axle oils changed as well.

I have not found the drive very quiet compared to my TD4 manual & hope all the above will help to quiet it down a little.

Driving around normally gearbox is ok but not that smooth, if I want a faster pull away its again ok but there is a momentary buzz when changing from 1st to 2nd, I am thinking that maybe because of the power needed the Haldex is maybe sending some power to the rear wheels & the buzz is the Haldex doing its job but to be honest I dont know. Never had an auto before so its all new to me. While cruising there is no whine but I can hear a noise from the rear like brakes rubbing, when I bought it it had just had new rear discs & pads.

My car still has 3 months warranty left on it so any advice if the noises I am hearing are normal or not would be helpful in maybe saving me money if something is going on that will eventually go all together. Thanks for any help/advice. 2014 Freelander 2 HSE Orkney Grey. Now sold.

I keep pushing the escape button but I am still here.

If you've rubbing coming from the rear try having your handbrake (shoes) checked out as I had a similar issue where the handbrake was not fully released hence rubbing to the point they wore out nearly.

It could be the rear diff making the noise. It won't be the parking brake shoes rubbing, as a 2014 Freelander 2 doesn't have them. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

My MY2013 SD4 Auto had a failing rear n/s wheel bearing a couple of years back - more a whine than a rubbing sound though that sounded (to me in the driver's seat) as if it was from the rear centre of the car...

New bearing - ok ever since.

(recently had the Haldex serviced and diff oil changed - just need the gearbox oil changing now)

Mine had rough shifting at one point, maybe around 100k miles, new motor mounts and tranny fluid change solved that.

Look at the torque mount just aft of the PS and coolant reservoirs... if the rubber's torn, then that one and probably the lower mount on that side needs replacement.

I went on a 240 mile round trip today & noise in 2nd gearchange still there. I also noticed when it made the noise the revs went up & then back in a second or so. I also noticed while cruising at 70 the engine was not smooth, like it was missing now & again & feeling lumpy, again as it was doing this the revs dropped back slightly & then back up again all within a second or so.

Plugged my cheapish Fox OB11 reader in & no faults recorded.

Just had trauma with my VW Caddy & expensive bill to sort it out so this is the last thing I need.

I would much rather it just go bang & stop, at least then I can find out what the issue is.

Any ideas most welcome & thanks in advance. 2014 Freelander 2 HSE Orkney Grey. Now sold.

I keep pushing the escape button but I am still here.

Sounds like you clutch is tired or the pressure plate; my guess here would be the clutch since you see a change in rpm. You could also try changing the transmission oil and see if that cheap fix does the trick?

Sounds like you clutch is tired or the pressure plate; my guess here would be the clutch since you see a change in rpm. You could also try changing the transmission oil and see if that cheap fix does the trick?

Its an auto mate, know nothing about auto's, do the clutches wear out on these like they do on a manual clutch ? 2014 Freelander 2 HSE Orkney Grey. Now sold.

I keep pushing the escape button but I am still here.

There are no clutches in a slush type auto box as fitted to the FL2, the gear changes are executed by hydraulically releasing and locking the bands. The fault description possibly indicates a problem with the torque converter and the gear lock. If it was a band problem you would get slip when accelerating hard in that gear. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

torque converter and the gear lock


Is this inside the auto box & can it be repaired or does it mean a new gearbox ? 2014 Freelander 2 HSE Orkney Grey. Now sold.

I keep pushing the escape button but I am still here.

Possibly just a new torque converter which is bolted to the starter ring gear, the gear lock is really a torque converter lock, it that that gives engine bra,king, not in the actual gear box. The torque converter is the component that stops you draining all the transmission fluid as it can only drain half the oil in it unless removed my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

blueboy wrote:

Sounds like you clutch is tired or the pressure plate; my guess here would be the clutch since you see a change in rpm. You could also try changing the transmission oil and see if that cheap fix does the trick?

Its an auto mate, know nothing about auto's, do the clutches wear out on these like they do on a manual clutch ?

Is it normal for the car to drive away without any foot on the gas for an auto. If I just let go of the brake peddle the car will do 5 mph without any input from me.

I heard you get creep but did not realise it was as much as that. 2014 Freelander 2 HSE Orkney Grey. Now sold.

I keep pushing the escape button but I am still here.

It doesn’t surprise me. I can pull away in my manual fl2 without touching the throttle.

Dartman the one wrote:

There are no clutches in a slush type auto box as fitted to the FL2, the gear changes are executed by hydraulically releasing and locking the bands.

Inside AWF21...
* Three multi plate clutches
* A roller type one-way clutch
* Two brakes - one brake band and one multi plate brake
So only one band and a lot of clutches...

Also the sound could very well be from the turbo, not gearbox, but you can't eliminate it, if this is the case, and the variation of the RPM at 70mph could be that your are exactly at the point where the TCC will engage or release.