I don’t know how it was done.
Took it to my local independent LR specialist and waited while it was in the workshop.
They say it is the alternator rather than the pulley. They’re not known for ripping people off and have looked after me well in the past.
I do know that the pulley is available as a stand alone replacement. There are various on eBay at a wide range of prices.
I think that if the pulley has failed the alternator probably isn’t far behind so it is sensible to replace the whole thing providing the budget allows.

The alternator pulley has a one way clutch, and has been known to seize up.


Try reading some of these posts about the Alternator Pulley

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0

(There are several clips with noise amongst these posts) FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Went to a different mechanic today and he is sure that it's the torque converter because everything else has been already discarded and/or replaced and the alternator pulley seems fine (no noise and no apparent vibration in the aux belt).

I asked to check it anyway and also the ATF appearance and level, waiting for news on that.

Does not seem to be pretty common for the torque converter to fail and even searching in the forum I'm not seeing many cases. Freelander 2 2014 SD4 Automatic HSE Fuji White
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The torque converter, all mountings, and the alternator all tested by them and they are all okay.

Their bet is now in the two "balanced" axles of the engine but they don't have the tools to confirm and recommended another garage.

I'm not buying, though. The engine would be "out of timing" and at least raising an error in the ECU or something, not vibrating under load, right?


Went to the recommended garage and they said the same, everything seems fine but they can see the abnormal vibration/resonance.

I will leave the car there next week to perform further testings, they asked to be prepared to be without the car for at least a week since this sounds like a PITA to diagnose.


And the saga goes on... Freelander 2 2014 SD4 Automatic HSE Fuji White
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Just reading and watching this thread with interest as we have 2 early 2.2 auto freelanders and both of them have vibration around 1800 rpm . Spent a lot of time and fair amount of cash on one to try and find the cause and eventually decided it is just a characteristic of these models . Some days I think it’s engine related then change my mind and think no it’s a transmission problem then a resonance problem but the issue is vibration can be in one component but show it’s self as a symptom somewhere else so it’s very frustrating and difficult to pinpoint . As you say driving in sport mode keeps the rpm up so avoids the problem . Looking forward to hearing any more ideas on a cure thanks

Quick question: did anyone try to change the MAF sensor?

Reading over here and there people are saying that the car was supposed to stall (we call "die" here but I think it's the same as "stall", the engine stops running) when you disconnect the MAF sensor while it's running.

Then you could restart the engine without it and it would run in the reduced performance mode.


Mine is not doing that, when I disconnect the MAF sensor, the engine doesn't change a bit and keeps running, with reduced performance, but doesn't stall or even hip cups (cold and hot, weather cold and hot, no difference, been trying over different days).

But other than consuming more fuel than my previous 2011 MY and shaking more than it should, I'm not seeing anything wrong with the car.

People are saying that this is a symptom of the MAF reading the information wrongly and I was wondering that if the MAF is reading something wrong, the ECU could be doing a wrong mixture of air/fuel and making the engine shake a bit more than it should by a bit.


Does it make any sense?

I'm in a tropical country, it's not uncommon to have 38ºc during the day and 8ºc by the night. Freelander 2 2014 SD4 Automatic HSE Fuji White
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Just been for a 5 mile drive with maf unplugged no difference in anything ....

Alright, that discards it, same behavior here.

Have you ever changed the ATF? Freelander 2 2014 SD4 Automatic HSE Fuji White
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Did anyone ever hear about the counterweight/balanced axles of this engine?




 Freelander 2 2014 SD4 Automatic HSE Fuji White
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They are obviously geared to the crank internally so unless the engine has been dismantled in the past I dont see how the balance shafts could get "out of time". Jules

Indeed.

I’m running out of options then.

If the timing belt is out of time, I would have been having other issues too, right? Freelander 2 2014 SD4 Automatic HSE Fuji White
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Im not sure what a slightly miss-timed camshaft would feel like on a FL2 engine.

Many years ago my friend put a fast road cam in his Morris Marina whilst rebuilding the engine. But it felt flat at the top end whilst running OK otherwise. A professional engine tuner played around with the distributor timing and changing needles on the twin SU carbs on a rolling road dyno but couldnt get it running right. His opinion was that the cam was probably out by a tooth on the timing chain. Jules

So this weekend I connected electronic listening device to my transfer box and drove round for 10 miles at differing engine speed and in different gears and as I listened the noise I was hearing it like a grinding and rumbling that corresponded to the vibrations through the car it really did sound bad yet I cannot feel any play in the output shaft so I’m going to remove the propshaft and repeat the test just to eliminate it then remove the transfer box for a more thorough look at it and drive without it and see how it feels . I know transfer boxes are problematic but only read about complete failures not how they appear when on the way out ...

Which device did you use ?

Keep us posted!

I'm asking all over the place and so far the recommendations are:

1. Change the diesel filter Currently a Mann but ordered a genuine just in case (arrives tomorrow)
2. "Metal" turbo pipes Someone said that it's known for the pipes to touch the car body and transfer the engine vibration/resonance when it is under torque
3. Alternator pulley Very unlikely due to the lack of noise and/or vibration in the aux belt but cheap to check (the garage didn't want to remove the aux belt to check because of that but I will do by myself if needed)
4. Timing belt out of timing Very unlikely since no other symptoms
5. Change ATF, transfer case, differentials, Haldex oils Probably will do in the next week or so


And one very interesting recommendation was the fuel injectors.

A well-recommended mechanic said that he already fixed a few FL2 by replacing/fixing the fuel injectors with the same symptoms.

By the description, he said that it is very likely that one of them is injecting too much or too little fuel when under torque, or losing compression, but not enough to register a failure in the ECU.

Although, there is no smoke/smell in the exhaust and he recommended verifying it with the SDD, which is quite expensive to buy or about $100 in any garage (detecting issues or not).


Since some of the options do not require expending any money and the ATF/diffs/etc are already in the time to change, I will wait before going after the SDD. Freelander 2 2014 SD4 Automatic HSE Fuji White
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